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Old 08-14-2018, 03:00 PM   #61
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Model: windsport 34P
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recall?

take a look at Jerry's Hurricane mods thread. Dino showed a great photo of what he foud and how he fixed.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...tml#post138122

I responded to him:

"Thanks Dino, Now I have to go under the bed in search for poor wiring. Having both knees replaced, kneeing is a painful exercise but better than being fried. Thor, I know you guys must monitor this Thread, this should lead to a self-exercised recall. I encourage everyone to take pictures of your finding and post them."

Not sure if we can connect these two threads or not. But I encourage everyone to follow Jerry's Hurricane mods thread.

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Old 08-14-2018, 03:36 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by tuckerfolk View Post
take a look at Jerry's Hurricane mods thread. Dino showed a great photo of what he foud and how he fixed.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/f27...tml#post138122

I responded to him:

"Thanks Dino, Now I have to go under the bed in search for poor wiring. Having both knees replaced, kneeing is a painful exercise but better than being fried. Thor, I know you guys must monitor this Thread, this should lead to a self-exercised recall. I encourage everyone to take pictures of your finding and post them."

Not sure if we can connect these two threads or not. But I encourage everyone to follow Jerry's Hurricane mods thread.
Dino's electrical problem was not in the transfer switch box located under the bed. It was in the junction box by the generator. His box was screwed on to the frame between the gen and gas tank.

The gen has stranded wires coming out and into this junction box. The solid wires from the box run to the transfer switch

Most people don't realize this box exists. On my 29m 30 amp the box is located right above the gen. To see it just open the gen door. Here's I oic of mine. As you can see its at the gen

JerryClick image for larger version

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Old 08-16-2018, 03:12 AM   #63
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I kinda think that the generator comes with that section of grey flexible conduit and wiring. The the motor home company installs the junction box and splices the wires that extend to the transfer switch. This circuit is often carring it's full 30 amp load for extended times. The splices must be properly made up to prevent failures just like what we have been seeing in the transfer switch scenarios.
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Old 08-16-2018, 03:31 AM   #64
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Originally Posted by ComputerChips View Post
I kinda think that the generator comes with that section of grey flexible conduit and wiring. The the motor home company installs the junction box and splices the wires that extend to the transfer switch. This circuit is often carring it's full 30 amp load for extended times. The splices must be properly made up to prevent failures just like what we have been seeing in the transfer switch scenarios.
I called onan today to get a wiring schematic. It shows the pig tail wiring but doesn't really show where the wires terminate in the gen. I would like to remove the pig tail wires and run new romex from the gen to the transfer switch box. Looking in the gen I can't see where the wires go. I'll look into this further when I get back from my trip in a couple weeks

Jerry
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Old 08-16-2018, 11:10 AM   #65
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Running Romex from the generator to the transfer switch might present a problem due to vibrations associated with the generator. Solid wire in Romex can break at the connection points when subjected to vibrations over a long period of time. THHN run through the appropriate size non-metallic conduit might be a better choice.

I have used extension cords with the ends cut off to run 12-volt power in vehicles and trailers. The conductors are insulated, held together inside the sheathing, and are very flexible. I don't know if that's advisable for 120-volts, but if a good quality SOOW (the old SO) type extension cord is used, I think it might work.
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Old 08-16-2018, 03:24 PM   #66
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Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
Running Romex from the generator to the transfer switch might present a problem due to vibrations associated with the generator. Solid wire in Romex can break at the connection points when subjected to vibrations over a long period of time. THHN run through the appropriate size non-metallic conduit might be a better choice.

I have used extension cords with the ends cut off to run 12-volt power in vehicles and trailers. The conductors are insulated, held together inside the sheathing, and are very flexible. I don't know if that's advisable for 120-volts, but if a good quality SOOW (the old SO) type extension cord is used, I think it might work.
I agree, SO cord is a much better choice and also Romex will most likely fail at some point. Jerry you can usually get So cord at Lowes and sometimes Home depot. If not any electrical supply store will have it.
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Old 08-17-2018, 02:11 AM   #67
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I'm not sure why but rubber cords are not allowed by the electric code to be run through walls or above ceilings in typical structures.
The pigtail that comes attached to the generator is probably what Onan determined is the best choice for getting the power from the connection point to a suitable splice for the customer's wiring. After all we're not hearing about failures at that location.
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Old 09-03-2018, 05:48 PM   #68
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Just an FYI

I wired in a 12v cigarette lighter plug under the end of the bed for a 12v fan when no 110 was available. While I had the access panel off for all the wiring I also checked out the transfer switch. Good news...no signs of hot/melted wiring or caps! I went ahead and took the tape off finding the twist caps fairly loose on the solid to stranded wires. So, I went ahead and installed butt connectors on the mismatched wires using some die-electric and this F4 self fusing silicone tape. I am very happy with the resulting joints.
I had never seen the F4 tape until about a year ago. I went ahead and tried it on a power supply for my laptop that kept breaking the wire where it flexes. This stuff sticks like feathers on honey and has kept my power wire in tact since January when I did the repair. This stuff is pretty cool!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001HETI...=aa_scomp&th=1
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Old 09-03-2018, 07:50 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by 99dart View Post
I wired in a 12v cigarette lighter plug under the end of the bed for a 12v fan when no 110 was available. While I had the access panel off for all the wiring I also checked out the transfer switch. Good news...no signs of hot/melted wiring or caps! I went ahead and took the tape off finding the twist caps fairly loose on the solid to stranded wires. So, I went ahead and installed butt connectors on the mismatched wires using some die-electric and this F4 self fusing silicone tape. I am very happy with the resulting joints.
I had never seen the F4 tape until about a year ago. I went ahead and tried it on a power supply for my laptop that kept breaking the wire where it flexes. This stuff sticks like feathers on honey and has kept my power wire in tact since January when I did the repair. This stuff is pretty cool!
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B001HETI...=aa_scomp&th=1
That is great tape, I wrap fittings that I want to keep from unscrewing like sink or hot water connections. It is good at sealing leaks under pressure but you have to put multiple wraps and and good spread on each side of the leak. Rescue Tape is what it is also marketed by.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:21 PM   #70
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99Dart,
Thanks for the info. on the F4 tape. I hadn't heard about it.

I am curious why you applied "die electric", which I assume is a silicon grease? Unless moisture and corrosion are going to be a problem, I don't know what good it will do.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:47 PM   #71
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Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
99Dart,
Thanks for the info. on the F4 tape. I hadn't heard about it.

I am curious why you applied "die electric", which I assume is a silicon grease? Unless moisture and corrosion are going to be a problem, I don't know what good it will do.
I know it is used on automotive plugs for pcm, ecm modules to help maintain a good connection. Our outdoor temperatures range from 100 in the summer to maybe -5 below at times in winter. I just thought it would be a good preventative measure in case of condensation.
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Old 09-03-2018, 08:50 PM   #72
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Originally Posted by thor293 View Post
That is great tape, I wrap fittings that I want to keep from unscrewing like sink or hot water connections. It is good at sealing leaks under pressure but you have to put multiple wraps and and good spread on each side of the leak. Rescue Tape is what it is also marketed by.
It's pretty cool stuff! It will break if you get your wrap tension a bit crooked.
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