Anyone pull a window and reseal?

MJC62 · 10-18-2021, 03:45 PM

After weeks of no rain around here we have been experiencing a monsoon around here the last three weeks. Long story short our passenger side window has begun to leak again on our 2018 ACE. I have cleaned and caulked this window ledge twice and as we bought this coach used the dealer had as a rental I can see where the dealer had caulked the top ledge as well. I am tired of putting band aids on the problem and want a permanent fix. I was wondering if anyone has pulled a window and resealed it? How involved is it? Does the window frame have a gasket or is it set in RTV? I do have mechanical ability but at 65 not sure if the body will allow me to accomplish the task.

Thoughts forum members?

MJC62 · 10-20-2021, 05:32 AM

Guess no one has pulled a window and resealed it.
So I called Hehr Window in Elkhart In. Their web page is Parkin Accessories. When you call them you get a real live person. If you ever need to replace an RV window they make most of the windows installed in the industry. The young man I talked to said the window is supposed to be installed with a foam gasket. He also said most of the windows that leak were not installed correctly, the gasket slipped out of place or the installer blew off using the gasket and relied on RTV to "seal" the window. I ordered the foam gasket material from them cost was $20. I suppose I could have gotten something at Maynards or Home Deposit for less money but the young guy on the phone was very helpful and I figure what the hay I might as well use what the RV is suppled with when it is built. 1 more trip for the rig this fall then I will get the two G-sons over here to help with the R&R of the window gasket.

chunker21 · 10-20-2021, 11:51 AM

I pulled and replaced a small window in a bath in my previous Itasca DP 1x2.5'. It was dual pane and condensation was between the glass panes. It was originally installed with urethane and I reinstalled it with the same. I also separated the 2 panes, cleaned as best I could the staining and etching on the inside portion, and use the urethane as the "gasket" on the dual pane window. I had no leaks after the reinstall.

Vibeman · 10-20-2021, 11:52 AM

We have a Hurricane 29m with a leak showing below the drivers side window. I pulled the window partially out by myself, just enough to inspect the gasket, leaving 1-2 strategically placed screws loosely in at all times to prevent the window from falling out. The gasket looked good. I then evenly tightened all screws and resealed the top and partway down the sides with silicone but the leak still appeared when it rained. I then took a garden hose up on the roof and had my wife inside to watch for the leak. It now seems that the leak may actually be on the roof where the Winegard antenna mounts. I will soon be removing and resealing the antenna. Many posts here about this problem.
BTW, I'm 69 so I say go for it!

Campnjoe · 10-21-2021, 03:33 AM

There is a good video on YouTube about pulling the windows and resealing them. There is also a kit you can buy to do it. I think it was done by rv101. Good luck. It doesn't seem like too big of a job as long as you have two people to do it. Pulling the window is the easy part. Getting it back in and center is the two person part.

MJC62 · 10-21-2021, 03:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Campnjoe

There is a good video on YouTube about pulling the windows and resealing them. There is also a kit you can buy to do it. I think it was done by rv101. Good luck. It doesn't seem like too big of a job as long as you have two people to do it. Pulling the window is the easy part. Getting it back in and center is the two person part.

TX

Two 20 something g sons with gramps supervising ought to get err done!

71_340 · 10-30-2021, 08:17 PM

I also had a leak on the passenger window on our 2020 ACE and resealed it with Proflex which is holding up well and I have driven through some rain storms.

I was going to pull the window out and use butyl tape but Thor in their infinite wisdom partially covers the front lower screws with the dashboard and I didn't feel like dismantling the interior of the RV.

chicks150g · 10-31-2021, 01:12 PM

I had same problem with my Thor ace when I bought it. I was sure it was the window, after I got the dealer to do a pressure test they found a crack on the roof sealed it and I have not had problems since. I was not convinced at the but I have not seen one drop of water there since. Good luck

Jimbo56 · 10-31-2021, 02:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MJC62

Guess no one has pulled a window and resealed it.
So I called Hehr Window in Elkhart In. Their web page is Parkin Accessories. When you call them you get a real live person. If you ever need to replace an RV window they make most of the windows installed in the industry. The young man I talked to said the window is supposed to be installed with a foam gasket. He also said most of the windows that leak were not installed correctly, the gasket slipped out of place or the installer blew off using the gasket and relied on RTV to "seal" the window. I ordered the foam gasket material from them cost was $20. I suppose I could have gotten something at Maynards or Home Deposit for less money but the young guy on the phone was very helpful and I figure what the hay I might as well use what the RV is suppled with when it is built. 1 more trip for the rig this fall then I will get the two G-sons over here to help with the R&R of the window gasket.

Sorry. Just now saw your post. Yes we have pulled a window. It’s a 2 person job to do it right. With someone holding the outside window, remove the screws holding the inner trim. Remove the trim. Kind be very difficult if any of the screws were cross threaded as ours were. Then go outside and drop the window. Clean it up good. The “D” seal is the real seal. I used a little pro cell gel to hold the d seal against the coach. Then carefully place the window back in the hole making sure not to move or fold the seal. One person holds the window while the other goes inside and reinstalls the trim piece. Tightly snug the screws. But don’t bear down too tight. I still glopped the top and sides once completed.

Now, all that being done still didn’t fix the leaks. Several of the cab marker light seals were hard and allowing water to follow the wiring down to the where the dash meets the wall. Also the magnetic satellite antenna was not sealed at all. Once everything else was sealed I’m now a year out with no further water intrusion.

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