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Old 05-03-2020, 10:17 PM   #1
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
State: Kansas
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THOR #18734
Power issue

I know not another thread but turning here for help. We have a 2016 Thor Four Winds 26A. So far thanks to this site I've gone through just about everywhere trying to resolve this issue. Right now I have no power unless on Gen or Shore power. Nothing will work then. Have the use and store switch.
Checks:
- 50 amp reset, think I've found. Just a (2) fuse near the use store button in the wall by the side of the fridge. Looked for it in the bathroom, near battery storage area, near left foot by drivers seat. The fuse was not bad. Still not getting the "clunk" when turning it on.
- Next items i intend to check are the battery, making sure it's good or not.
- Check use store function next as well. Need to get a volt meter for this.
Anything else I could be missing? Thanks in advance! Mark

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Old 05-03-2020, 11:04 PM   #2
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Model: 2020 Magnitude SV34
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THOR #12751
Quote:
Originally Posted by RudDer1 View Post
I know not another thread but turning here for help. We have a 2016 Thor Four Winds 26A. So far thanks to this site I've gone through just about everywhere trying to resolve this issue. Right now I have no power unless on Gen or Shore power. Nothing will work then. Have the use and store switch.
Checks:
- 50 amp reset, think I've found. Just a (2) fuse near the use store button in the wall by the side of the fridge. Looked for it in the bathroom, near battery storage area, near left foot by drivers seat. The fuse was not bad. Still not getting the "clunk" when turning it on.
- Next items i intend to check are the battery, making sure it's good or not.
- Check use store function next as well. Need to get a volt meter for this.
Anything else I could be missing? Thanks in advance! Mark

The 50 AMP breaker is typically near the batteries in the battery compartment. It is a 12V breaker and not a fuse. It looks like this one. Could be red or yellow button. If you press the button, it will trip and then you need to flip the little arm back into position.

These can be hard to find. On my 2018 Outlaw 29H, I had to actually lay on my back and slide under the coach at the battery tray to find mine. I could not reach them from inside the battery compartment under the step.

The 50 AMP breaker could very well be your problem. If you have 12V power with shore power or the generator, that means your Converter is working but your battery power is not getting back to the 12V panel.

You should also check all your cables and connections in the battery compartment and also these breakers once you find them.

It could be your batteries but they would need to be totally shot.
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Old 05-04-2020, 12:21 AM   #3
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THOR #18734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
The 50 AMP breaker is typically near the batteries in the battery compartment. It is a 12V breaker and not a fuse. It looks like this one. Could be red or yellow button. If you press the button, it will trip and then you need to flip the little arm back into position.

These can be hard to find. On my 2018 Outlaw 29H, I had to actually lay on my back and slide under the coach at the battery tray to find mine. I could not reach them from inside the battery compartment under the step.

The 50 AMP breaker could very well be your problem. If you have 12V power with shore power or the generator, that means your Converter is working but your battery power is not getting back to the 12V panel.

You should also check all your cables and connections in the battery compartment and also these breakers once you find them.

It could be your batteries but they would need to be totally shot.
Thanks, another thread on here you pointed that same item out. I've crawled all over underneath already looking around my battery underneath lol. I'm going to go hunting for it more again in a few more days when I see it next. What do you think that fuse was I found was for? Hopefully I can find it and post it for others when I do. Amazing how so many have this issue finding it. My owners manual says I have a 50 amp reset but nowhere near where it says lol. Thanks for the quick response!
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Old 05-04-2020, 12:55 AM   #4
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THOR #12751
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Originally Posted by RudDer1 View Post
Thanks, another thread on here you pointed that same item out. I've crawled all over underneath already looking around my battery underneath lol. I'm going to go hunting for it more again in a few more days when I see it next. What do you think that fuse was I found was for? Hopefully I can find it and post it for others when I do. Amazing how so many have this issue finding it. My owners manual says I have a 50 amp reset but nowhere near where it says lol. Thanks for the quick response!

So the fuses you found near the Use / Store switch could be for the awning, awning lights or other accessory. On my 2018 Outlaw 29H, there was an access panel to get behind the Use / Store Switch and other switches and I had fuses there for the awning and lights.

The power from the battery back to the 12V panel is a heavy gauge wire and why it uses the breaker I posted and not fuses.

You may want to start tracing the wires from your battery terminals. The 50 AMP breaker is typically not far from the batteries.

You may also want to try and gain access to the back of your electronics bay. It may be under your bed. The Latching Relay sometimes has fuses on it. If one is blown, that could prevent the relay from activating when you hit the Use / Store Switch. When you get the Use / Store Switch, you should hear the relay engage. But if the 50 Amp breaker or the latching relay fuse is blown, you won't hear anything.

The manuals never point out the exact location of some of these fuses and breakers because they tend to vary from build to build..... unfortunately.
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Old 05-05-2020, 12:54 AM   #5
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THOR #18734
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Originally Posted by Judge View Post
So the fuses you found near the Use / Store switch could be for the awning, awning lights or other accessory. On my 2018 Outlaw 29H, there was an access panel to get behind the Use / Store Switch and other switches and I had fuses there for the awning and lights.

The power from the battery back to the 12V panel is a heavy gauge wire and why it uses the breaker I posted and not fuses.

You may want to start tracing the wires from your battery terminals. The 50 AMP breaker is typically not far from the batteries.

You may also want to try and gain access to the back of your electronics bay. It may be under your bed. The Latching Relay sometimes has fuses on it. If one is blown, that could prevent the relay from activating when you hit the Use / Store Switch. When you get the Use / Store Switch, you should hear the relay engage. But if the 50 Amp breaker or the latching relay fuse is blown, you won't hear anything.

The manuals never point out the exact location of some of these fuses and breakers because they tend to vary from build to build..... unfortunately.
Hmm... More food for thought. I've already looked under the bed no access for anything there. There is an access point at the back of the bedroom area but I found no fuses there or anything that could be of an issue. Any other idea where to look? Going to search around the batt again next time I go see it and look some more around as well. Thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2020, 02:09 AM   #6
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THOR #12751
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Originally Posted by RudDer1 View Post
Hmm... More food for thought. I've already looked under the bed no access for anything there. There is an access point at the back of the bedroom area but I found no fuses there or anything that could be of an issue. Any other idea where to look? Going to search around the batt again next time I go see it and look some more around as well. Thanks again.
Where is your AC breaker panel and 12V fuse panel located? The latching relay would be in the compartment behind them typically.

If you follow the positive battery cables, you should find the 50 AMP breaker.
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Old 05-05-2020, 03:44 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RudDer1 View Post
I know not another thread but turning here for help. We have a 2016 Thor Four Winds 26A. So far thanks to this site I've gone through just about everywhere trying to resolve this issue. Right now I have no power unless on Gen or Shore power. Nothing will work then. Have the use and store switch.
Checks:
- 50 amp reset, think I've found. Just a (2) fuse near the use store button in the wall by the side of the fridge. Looked for it in the bathroom, near battery storage area, near left foot by drivers seat. The fuse was not bad. Still not getting the "clunk" when turning it on.
- Next items i intend to check are the battery, making sure it's good or not.
- Check use store function next as well. Need to get a volt meter for this.
Anything else I could be missing? Thanks in advance! Mark
The inline breaker will be within 6' of the battery. Not inside on a wall. It is inline with the battery cables.

There is also 2 ''Reverse Polarity fuses" on the converter. 30 or 40 amps.

What POWER are you looking for 120 volts or 12 volts? Do you have lights without shore power or Generator?

Nothing will work then what does this mean? What is Nothing
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Old 05-05-2020, 10:57 PM   #8
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THOR #18734
Quote:
Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Where is your AC breaker panel and 12V fuse panel located? The latching relay would be in the compartment behind them typically.

If you follow the positive battery cables, you should find the 50 AMP breaker.
In kitchen table bench compartment. Gone through that well. Wanting to install a surge protector down the road (not for discussion here ha ha). All that looks good. Went through all the 12v and everything. I'm convinced it's a 50 amp reset hiding. Going to trace the lines more and check the batt this upcoming weekend I hope. Weather pending. Thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2020, 11:01 PM   #9
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THOR #18734
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Originally Posted by cavie View Post
The inline breaker will be within 6' of the battery. Not inside on a wall. It is inline with the battery cables.

There is also 2 ''Reverse Polarity fuses" on the converter. 30 or 40 amps.

What POWER are you looking for 120 volts or 12 volts? Do you have lights without shore power or Generator?

Nothing will work then what does this mean? What is Nothing
Good catch. I mean nothing works unless the gen OR shore power is supplied. When on the house battery no 12v action. I'll check for those reverse polarity fuses thanks. 6 ft of the battery, going to look again. It runs and hides quick once it leaves the house batt. That is under my step, access stinks. Thanks again.
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Old 05-05-2020, 11:18 PM   #10
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THOR #15553
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Originally Posted by RudDer1 View Post
Good catch. I mean nothing works unless the gen OR shore power is supplied. When on the house battery no 12v action. I'll check for those reverse polarity fuses thanks. 6 ft of the battery, going to look again. It runs and hides quick once it leaves the house batt. That is under my step, access stinks. Thanks again.

That's where you will find it.
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Old 05-06-2020, 12:37 AM   #11
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THOR #14643
25.2 Vegas 2015 power issues

This one was a problem child from the beginning
One 50 amp breaker under the step wasn’t too difficult to get to.
They said there was only one at the house batteries, wrong
The other one was on the left side, mounted high and out of sight. The cables went around and mounted to the back side of the breaker. Looking like a ground, it was connected to the negative post. First thing I found wrong
Second thing was the isolation solenoid between the converter and house batteries was wired backwards
Third was the isolation solenoid under the hood was also wired backwards
Bad house batteries
Loose ground
Battery boost switch loose
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Old 05-06-2020, 12:55 AM   #12
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THOR #14643
Breakers and fuses

Your converter is getting 120. Automatic transfer switch works. If generator stays running for at least 30 minutes while the engine is also running you batteries are probably ok.
Trip the 50 amp breakers you see and shove the reset bar back in firmly. It may not really be in completely. I had one that looked reset but wasn’t.
I have also seen a breaker mounted inside the frame rail.
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Old 05-06-2020, 01:14 AM   #13
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THOR #14643
More breakers

I replace batteries all the time.
If over a year old, issues with the unit, the least bit swollen or they have been drained completely over and over I call them bad no matter what and recommend replace them.
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Old 05-06-2020, 01:34 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Boerne RV View Post
I replace batteries all the time.

If over a year old, issues with the unit, the least bit swollen or they have been drained completely over and over I call them bad no matter what and recommend replace them.


My first thought as well. This is a 2016 coach and you say your “next step” is to check the batteries to see if they are good. Unless they’ve been replaced they could be as much as 5 years old and, if they are OE, they are not maintenance free. By all means check them.
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Old 05-06-2020, 01:58 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Boerne RV View Post
Third was the isolation solenoid under the hood was also wired backwards
Not to highjack the OP's thread but.....

I assume you are talking about the BIM160 (or BIM225) Battery Isolation Manager.

I was having issues with the BIM160 on my 2020 Magnitude. The alternator was not charging the house batteries properly when driving and the Inverter was on for the fridge.

I called Precision Circuits Tech Support and they offered to send me a replacement after some troubleshooting. As I did more research, I found other MH manufacturers wired the BIM differently than Thor.

There is a BATT-A post and a BATT-B post. Thor wired the chassis battery to BATT-B and the house batteries to BATT-A. According to Precision Circuits it does not matter which batteries are attached to either post.

However, I found that other MH manufacturers wired the chassis battery to the BATT-A post and the house batteries to the BATT-B post. I also noticed the IGN post was nearest to the BATT-A post. I don't have schematics for the BIM circuit board but I surmised there could be a link between the IGN post and the BATT-A post.

I decided to swap the battery cables and when I had the chassis battery on BATT-A and the house batteries on BATT-B, the BIM 160 started working as I expected. I am fairly convinced it does matter how it is wired and some of the BIM issues reported on this forum may be due to having the battery cables being reversed on the BIM.
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Old 05-06-2020, 05:56 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Judge View Post
Not to highjack the OP's thread but.....

I assume you are talking about the BIM160 (or BIM225) Battery Isolation Manager.

I was having issues with the BIM160 on my 2020 Magnitude. The alternator was not charging the house batteries properly when driving and the Inverter was on for the fridge.

I called Precision Circuits Tech Support and they offered to send me a replacement after some troubleshooting. As I did more research, I found other MH manufacturers wired the BIM differently than Thor.

There is a BATT-A post and a BATT-B post. Thor wired the chassis battery to BATT-B and the house batteries to BATT-A. According to Precision Circuits it does not matter which batteries are attached to either post.

However, I found that other MH manufacturers wired the chassis battery to the BATT-A post and the house batteries to the BATT-B post. I also noticed the IGN post was nearest to the BATT-A post. I don't have schematics for the BIM circuit board but I surmised there could be a link between the IGN post and the BATT-A post.

I decided to swap the battery cables and when I had the chassis battery on BATT-A and the house batteries on BATT-B, the BIM 160 started working as I expected. I am fairly convinced it does matter how it is wired and some of the BIM issues reported on this forum may be due to having the battery cables being reversed on the BIM.
Well, if the chassis and house battery leads are swapped the Ign and Sig leads have to be swapped as well. Having the ignition lead activate the house side and the signal lead activate the chassis side won't work.
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Old 05-06-2020, 06:04 PM   #17
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Well, if the chassis and house battery leads are swapped the Ign and Sig leads have to be swapped as well. Having the ignition lead activate the house side and the signal lead activate the chassis side won't work.

And that is where Thor has it wrong. They even show it incorrectly in their schematics.

You can see they show the chassis batter is on the SIG side and the house battery is on the IGN side.

What led me to look at it more closely is my FireFly Panel app was showing crazy voltages while driving that made no sense. At times it would show the chassis batteries at 0V and the house batteries at 16V.

The other thing that lead me to investigate the wiring more closely was the BIM they make for LI batteries specifically says BATT-A is for the chassis battery. That made sense because the chassis battery may not be LI and need to charge differently than LI house batteries.

Once I swapped the battery cables, everything worked exactly as I expected. When the house batteries dropped below 12.6V, the alternator would start charging them. When on shore power and the chassis batteries dropped below 12.6V, the Converter/Charger started charging them.

I'd say this should be a Thor recall. I can't entirely blame Thor after the manufacturer of the BIM told me it made no difference which battery went to BATT-A and which battery went to BATT-B. Based on my testing and troubleshooting I can definitively say it does make a difference.
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:26 AM   #18
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That's where you will find it.
I've checked but going to take another better look. Hopefully that's all it is.
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:34 AM   #19
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THOR #18734
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Originally Posted by Boerne RV View Post
This one was a problem child from the beginning
One 50 amp breaker under the step wasn’t too difficult to get to.
They said there was only one at the house batteries, wrong
The other one was on the left side, mounted high and out of sight. The cables went around and mounted to the back side of the breaker. Looking like a ground, it was connected to the negative post. First thing I found wrong
Second thing was the isolation solenoid between the converter and house batteries was wired backwards
Third was the isolation solenoid under the hood was also wired backwards
Bad house batteries
Loose ground
Battery boost switch loose
Hmm... thanks don't think mines to that extent though as it was working as as it should. Hope not anyways lol
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Old 05-08-2020, 01:37 AM   #20
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THOR #18734
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Originally Posted by Pete'sMH View Post
My first thought as well. This is a 2016 coach and you say your “next step” is to check the batteries to see if they are good. Unless they’ve been replaced they could be as much as 5 years old and, if they are OE, they are not maintenance free. By all means check them.
Yeah I checked end of last season when this started at end of last trip and it was good but after winter I need to check again. Think it's time regardless to replace. I run the gen monthly to keep it prepared. Thanks!
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