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Old 10-25-2020, 10:36 PM   #1
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Power Problem

So this happened today...

I turned off shore power at the pedestal, and the entire coach went dark. No breakers tripped. All fuses intact. Plugged it back in and turned on the power. Everything working again. Turned off the pedestal again and same thing...entire coach dark. Turned on generator and had power that way.

I am getting no AC power at all. Converter seems to be working and fuses are good. So...what is my problem?

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Old 10-25-2020, 10:42 PM   #2
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The ATS?
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:50 PM   #3
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The ATS?

That was my first thought, but I cannot figure out how to test it. Looks like a couple breakers in there. If that's what they are then one is disconnected. I'm trying to attach a photo of what I saw in there.
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Old 10-25-2020, 10:51 PM   #4
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Looking at that picture the blue thing in the middle is popped out as opposed to the one on the right is flush. I cannot get it to push in flush.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:05 PM   #5
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I’m not sure I understand...you are surprised that you don’t have AC power when the power is turned off at the pedestal unless the generator is running?
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:07 PM   #6
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I’m not sure I understand...you are surprised that you don’t have AC power when the power is turned off at the pedestal unless the generator is running?
I misspoke. I have NO power when shore power or generator is off.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:20 PM   #7
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I’m not sure I understand...you are surprised that you don’t have AC power when the power is turned off at the pedestal unless the generator is running?


Ok, then it’s a battery problem. Obviously you do have the store switch on or you’d not even have lights when plugged in. Have you checked the voltage on the house batteries with the shore power and generator off?
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:46 PM   #8
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Power Problem

Those are definite purpose contactors. Sorta kinda like a relay. The blue tabs in the middle let you know if it is energized or not. If the tabs are flush then that contractor is energized. If it looks popped out it is not. Do not attempt to push tabs down - bad things will happen. One will be energized if on shore power and the other is on genset.
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:52 PM   #9
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Those are definite purpose contactors. Sorta kinda like a relay. The blue tabs in the middle let you know if it is energized or not. If the tabs are flush then that contractor is energized. If it looks popped out it is not. Do not attempt to push tabs down - bad things will happen. Only one should be energized at a time. If on shore power then one will energize, the other if on genset.
Ok....so then you don't think this problem is ATS related?
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Old 10-25-2020, 11:57 PM   #10
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Ok....so then you don't think this problem is ATS related?


Probably not since you get VAC from both shore and genset. I would look at the distribution center. It seems like it isn’t getting 12vdc from the house batteries to run the lights.
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:21 AM   #11
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Not an AC problem. Look at the other thread you started, Pete has pointed you in the correct direction. You have a lack of DC power from your house batteries. Either the batteries are dead or your USE/STORE switch is in STORE or you have a tripped 50 amp DC breaker or a bad latching relay.
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Old 10-26-2020, 12:23 AM   #12
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Power Problem

If I have this right, you say you turn off the power at the pedestal (I assume flip the breaker / pull the plug) and the coach goes dark.... correct?

The lights are 12V DC and not AC. Sounds to me like your Use/Store switch is the in Store position.

When the Use/Store is in Store when there is AC power, the Converter will still provide DC voltage even though the batteries are disconnected in the Store position. Then when you pull the AC power, there is no battery power to the lights so they go out.

Make sure your Use/Store switch is in the Use position.

Also, the only AC power you will get without Shore or Generator power is if you have an Inverter and the Inverter only provides limited AC power to specific outlets if the Inverter is turned on. However, it will not provide power for the lights because the lights only run on 12V DC power.
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Old 10-26-2020, 01:12 AM   #13
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Let's all get on the same page. Lights are 12 volts DC. Power in the RV world means 120 volts AC. The generator puts out 120 volts AC. It sounds like your Battery Disconnect is on the Store position and your converter is not on. The converter is powered by 120 volts and provides 12 volt DC to the lights and all the 12 volt control circuits and charges your battery. Check the battery voltage. Outlets are 120 volts AC on shore and gen power.
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Old 10-26-2020, 01:21 AM   #14
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That was my first thought, but I cannot figure out how to test it. Looks like a couple breakers in there. If that's what they are then one is disconnected. I'm trying to attach a photo of what I saw in there.
You test it with a voltmeter. The topside is line voltage. The bottom is load voltage.
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Old 10-26-2020, 01:32 AM   #15
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Working from battery to lights the following could be the issue if your use/store isn’t:

1) discharged house battery
2) 50amp breaker in battery compartment could be tripped
3) use/store switch faulty
4) latching relay faulty
5) reverse polarity fuses in distribution center blown

These are the lumps in the line for 12vdc power.

If you toggle the use/store switch and hear the latching relay then look at 5. If not then look at 1 and 2. This should help you narrow the problem down. Good old Navy troubleshooting. ;-)
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Old 10-26-2020, 03:28 PM   #16
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Let's all get on the same page. Lights are 12 volts DC. Power in the RV world means 120 volts AC. The generator puts out 120 volts AC. It sounds like your Battery Disconnect is on the Store position and your converter is not on. The converter is powered by 120 volts and provides 12 volt DC to the lights and all the 12 volt control circuits and charges your battery. Check the battery voltage. Outlets are 120 volts AC on shore and gen power.
I think that is what I said?
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Old 10-26-2020, 08:05 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Fish and Dear View Post
That was my first thought, but I cannot figure out how to test it. Looks like a couple breakers in there. If that's what they are then one is disconnected. I'm trying to attach a photo of what I saw in there.
This is your transfer switch (or relay). The way the image is orientated, the top with the jumpers running from one side to the other is where the RV main 50 amp ac breaker feed is supplied from. The bottom right is from your shore cable and the bottom left is from your Onan. So if the shore is plugged in, the relay on the right will 'pick-up' and feed through to the top and jumper over to the top left and up and out to the RV 50A ac breaker. Now, this transfer switch is mechanically interlocked, so only one side or the other can be picked up (otherwise as mentioned earlier, nasty things will happen). When you run the Onan and your Rapid Camp+® says for it to supply power to the RV, then the relay on the left will pick-up (right side will drop-out) and power will flow from the bottom left, through the relay and out the top left to the RV 50A ac breaker panel.
You can see the small sensing wires on the bottom that the Rapid Camp+® uses to determine what your voltages are on both power supplies.
Now, all this was just some edumication.... your problem is still dc power related, not here in the ATS.
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Old 10-26-2020, 09:13 PM   #18
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A picture of OldWEB’s edumication...I learn best with paper and crayons.

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Old 10-26-2020, 09:46 PM   #19
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I love how describe it! Much better than my long-winded explanation.
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Old 10-26-2020, 10:55 PM   #20
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I love how describe it! Much better than my long-winded explanation.


You edumication was perfect.
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