Problem with slide controller Windsport 35 m

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by Beau388

There are two Hall effect wires in the cable, signal and power. This fault normally only happens at three places - the connector at the motor, the connector at the controller and the cable itself. Water can cause this, metal shavings can cause this, a faulty Hall wheel or sensor in the motor or an actual worn place in the cable. So somewhere there is a short so that the Hall effect module is not working properly.

Thanks Beau388. Im just having a hard time understanding why it happens to both controllers and after resetting and leaving the Batt switch on i can run the slide and bunk without getting blinking lights until i shut the power off then back on. In my mind a short should not reset. Again thanks

[MBaker]

Nasty day here in New York but went out to check battery levels. Found something that may pertain to this problem we are all having.

See pictures. Inside the battery compartment on the left is this "Battery Isolation Manager"

As you can see in the pictures the red wire (that was barely connected) is now off from where it belongs. It connects to that yellow wire which is virtually impossible to trace around in this small area with so many wires.

However, on the ceiling in this compartment is this "Lippert Main Power Connector" . . . . good chance the yellow wire ends up here? And this could be causing the Code 9 error???

Guess will have to take off this nut, crimp and and reattach this wire. Hate electrical things. Will shut all power down and hope for the best.

Thoughts??

[Tom N3EQF]

I would first take a ohmmeter and measure the resistance between the loose wire you discovered, and the yellow wire on the controller. You're looking for near zero ohms resistance between the two, of course.

Assuming that the yellow wire is supposed to be power (12 VDC) then it certainly could explain your slide controller issue!

At any rate, since the crimp on that terminal was bad and the wire came loose, obviously you will want to reconnect it properly.

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by Beau388

There are two Hall effect wires in the cable, signal and power. This fault normally only happens at three places - the connector at the motor, the connector at the controller and the cable itself. Water can cause this, metal shavings can cause this, a faulty Hall wheel or sensor in the motor or an actual worn place in the cable. So somewhere there is a short so that the Hall effect module is not working properly.

Hi Beau388
You appear to understand the system. What does Hall effect do? Thor had me disconnect the motor plugs and ohm out the Hall effect wires to see they are shorted. No shorts were found. Swapped plugs green light didn’t move from one motor to the other. Thor also sent elect diagrams to find and locate grounds. The ground behind batteries was loose and it has the white ground wires. Also, found the ground stud between the fuel filler manifold and frame. This stud also has large ground wires and it was loose. Terrible Quality Control. After tightening the studs same problem came back.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Sonny

Hi Beau388
You appear to understand the system. What does Hall effect do? Thor had me disconnect the motor plugs and ohm out the Hall effect wires to see they are shorted. No shorts were found. Swapped plugs green light didn’t move from one motor to the other. Thor also sent elect diagrams to find and locate grounds. The ground behind batteries was loose and it has the white ground wires. Also, found the ground stud between the fuel filler manifold and frame. This stud also has large ground wires and it was loose. Terrible Quality Control. After tightening the studs same problem came back.

You can google Hall effect to see how it works. The Hall effect sensor produces voltage spikes that the controller uses to keep the motors turning at the same speed. The controller sends power to the Hall effect sensor and the signal wire also acts as the ground.

The controller counts the pulses from the sensor over a set time period (usually about 1/4 of a second) and compares the results. The controller then reduces the power of the faster motor. This is done by using a transistor named a thyristor. The controller's LEDs flash alternately while the slide is moving showing the controller's circuitry is operating normally.

[MBaker]

Went out today and tried to find any loose wires. All looked good. Then did exactly what others have. Hit retract on the slide and bunk and both moved ever so slightly . . . lights out.

Will have to wait and see after we drive it how things look. This definitely seems to be something that Thor and LCI should be able to resolve with so many having this issue.

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by MBaker

Went out today and tried to find any loose wires. All looked good. Then did exactly what others have. Hit retract on the slide and bunk and both moved ever so slightly . . . lights out.

Will have to wait and see after we drive it how things look. This definitely seems to be something that Thor and LCI should be able to resolve with so many having this issue.

After i reset the system with lights out I leave the batt swich on and I can move both slides extend and retract without getting lights until i shut off the batt switch wait a while turn the batt switch on and the 9 blinking lights come back. Sure would be nice to see them come up with a fix. Please post it if you are successful.
Thanks

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Sonny

After i reset the system with lights out I leave the batt swich on and I can move both slides extend and retract without getting lights until i shut off the batt switch wait a while turn the batt switch on and the 9 blinking lights come back. Sure would be nice to see them come up with a fix. Please post it if you are successful.
Thanks

No blinking LEDs when the slide is moving?

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by Beau388

No blinking LEDs when the slide is moving?

Just checked. Yes when the slide is moving the LEDs are flashing until the motors stop then the LEDs are both on steady for a short time then go off.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Sonny

Just checked. Yes when the slide is moving the LEDs are flashing until the motors stop then the LEDs are both on steady for a short time then go off.

That indicated the the slide is operating normally. When the LEDs both stay on at the end of the movement (slide motors stalled), the controller is resetting itself to zero.

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by Beau388

That indicated the the slide is operating normally. When the LEDs both stay on at the end of the movement (slide motors stalled), the controller is resetting itself to zero.

Then the motors relax like the brake is releasing allowing them to open as much as the preloaded condition is on them allows. One member said he would put a slide bar on the wall slide to prevent the slide from retracting. I’m wondering if this unwinding of the motors is knocking out the Hall Effect Synchronization if there is such a thing. Thor blamed it on the wire nutted grounds in the J box under the bed which I tightened. Think while Thor and LCI look into this I’m going to put star washers between the layers of ground wires on all ground studs outside and do something creative under the bed. This is friggin nuts on a nearly new coach.

[Down South]

I just found this thread but I noticed the same problem on my ACE this morning. The slide controller was blinking red 9 times and green once.
I came in and Googled the problem and found hitting the retract extend buttons should reset it. I had my slides out. "Been working on the inside minor projects."

I hit the retract button on the first slide and nothing. I hit the extend button and the slide tried to extend and moved just a small amount. Then the retract button worked. I had to do the same for the other slide.
I retracted both slides all the way in then extended both slides all the way. The trouble code light went out.
Actually the trouble code light went out after I had retracted both slides. I retracted the rear first and checked the controller and the trouble code light was still flashing.
I retracted the front slide and the trouble code light was off.
I got out of the MH in time to check the controller and both red and green lights were lit and within a couple seconds they both went off.

I extended both slides all the way out and no trouble code light on the controller.

Weird that so many of us are having the same problem.

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by Down South

I just found this thread but I noticed the same problem on my ACE this morning. The slide controller was blinking red 9 times and green once.
I came in and Googled the problem and found hitting the retract extend buttons should reset it. I had my slides out. "Been working on the inside minor projects."

I hit the retract button on the first slide and nothing. I hit the extend button and the slide tried to extend and moved just a small amount. Then the retract button worked. I had to do the same for the other slide.
I retracted both slides all the way in then extended both slides all the way. The trouble code light went out.
Actually the trouble code light went out after I had retracted both slides. I retracted the rear first and checked the controller and the trouble code light was still flashing.
I retracted the front slide and the trouble code light was off.
I got out of the MH in time to check the controller and both red and green lights were lit and within a couple seconds they both went off.

I extended both slides all the way out and no trouble code light on the controller.

Weird that so many of us are having the same problem.

Hopefully if everyone contacts Thor and LCI advising them of this chronic problem maybe it will get cured. One thing Down South, try starting your engine and let it idle for at least 10 minutes before turning on the battery switch. On mine i have seen the 9 blinking LEDs not come on and slides worked without lignts and without having to reset the controller with the extend switch after letting the engine idle putting a good charge on the batts. And yes it happened on the original Batts and now on two new Interstate batts. It might have been coincidence. Give it a try.

[Down South]

Originally Posted by Sonny

Hopefully if everyone contacts Thor and LCI advising them of this chronic problem maybe it will get cured. One thing Down South, try starting your engine and let it idle for at least 10 minutes before turning on the battery switch. On mine i have seen the 9 blinking LEDs not come on and slides worked without lignts and without having to reset the controller with the extend switch after letting the engine idle putting a good charge on the batts. And yes it happened on the original Batts and now on two new Interstate batts. It might have been coincidence. Give it a try.

Mine stays hooked to shore power here at the house so I don't use the battery disconnect. I leave it connected so my batteries stay charged.
I never have used my slides without being on shore power or without the generator running.
I'm going to keep an eye on this since I just spotted it this morning.
This is the first time that I've tried to retract my slides on shore power and they didn't work. I had to use extend first then they would retract. Plus it reset the alarm when I did this.

There has to be a common problem causing this with so many different members experiencing the same symptoms.

[Sonny]

Originally Posted by Down South

Mine stays hooked to shore power here at the house so I don't use the battery disconnect. I leave it connected so my batteries stay charged.
I never have used my slides without being on shore power or without the generator running.
I'm going to keep an eye on this since I just spotted it this morning.
This is the first time that I've tried to retract my slides on shore power and they didn't work. I had to use extend first then they would retract. Plus it reset the alarm when I did this.

There has to be a common problem causing this with so many different members experiencing the same symptoms.

as I do each time I read a different angle I go try it. I just tried it and as soon as I plugged in, the light over the battery switch came on and I got the blinking lights. I reset it with the switch and back to normal. Next I unplugged from the house and turned on the Gen. Same thing blinking lights came on. Alright going back inside the house and add those tests to the list.

[Ghh]

I have read all the comments on the slide problem with interest. I have the same problem. I’ll try some of the ways to correct the problem described. I have one question. Why do the call it a “Hall Grounding” problem? What does Hall refer to. Thanks.

Disregard. I googled it and found out what it means. Sorry for any inconvenience.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Ghh

I have read all the comments on the slide problem with interest. I have the same problem. I’ll try some of the ways to correct the problem described. I have one question. Why do the call it a “Hall Grounding” problem? What does Hall refer to. Thanks.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wpAA3qeOYiI

[Ghh]

Originally Posted by DenverTransplant

We've made a couple trips this year and the slides appear to be working OK. The dinette/recliner slide controller still has the blinking error when power is turned on, but the slide still works fine. Once power has been turned on and the slide moved, the error blinks go out and everything looks normal.

The thought on a ground issue is a good one and now I'll have to go chase grounds. If its too tough to trace the wires, I may just tap the ground wire and run it directly to the battery ground.

Jerry, how did you get Thor to send you new controllers? Was it still under warranty when you found the problem? I'm almost a year out of warranty now.

Did tapping the ground wire identify where the problems is. I’ve got the same issue and was contemplating doing the same. Thanks.

[Ghh]

Originally Posted by Beau388

That indicated the the slide is operating normally. When the LEDs both stay on at the end of the movement (slide motors stalled), the controller is resetting itself to zero.

My controller with the flashing lights is in a compartment on the drivers side and the extend/retract switch is on the inside. Unless you have it set up to where you can see the lights inside I’m assuming you have someone helping you. I’m by myself with two Rat Terriers and they’re not very helpful. Lol!! Thanks.

[Ghh]

Originally Posted by Sonny

Hopefully if everyone contacts Thor and LCI advising them of this chronic problem maybe it will get cured. One thing Down South, try starting your engine and let it idle for at least 10 minutes before turning on the battery switch. On mine i have seen the 9 blinking LEDs not come on and slides worked without lignts and without having to reset the controller with the extend switch after letting the engine idle putting a good charge on the batts. And yes it happened on the original Batts and now on two new Interstate batts. It might have been coincidence. Give it a try.

I’m new to this game, but when you say Battery Switch do you mean the Use/Store switch on the left by the steps when you enter the RV? Thanks