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Old 12-17-2018, 05:14 PM   #1
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: View
State: Nevada
Posts: 56
THOR #7987
Gas line to Furnace issues ACE 29.3

On our last trip we discovered that our furnace would not ignite. We tried to trouble shoot it, thinking that since it had worked the previous winter, and we could hear clicking, and the fans came on, that probably the issue was due to some sort of critter blocking the nozzle to the burners. When we opened things up, we discovered a closed up unit, where the igniter area is enclosed in a tube. So after returning home, took it to a local RV repair place to have the furnace diagnosed and repaired. They found the circuit board to be functioning without problem, so took the furnace apart, found some dirt in various locations, cleaned it up, put it back in, and viola!, it worked. They ran it off an on all afternoon, and it seemed to be functioning fine. We brought it home, and I didn't try the furnace until this morning. It did exactly what it was doing prior to the repair shop, fans on, lots of clicking, and never igniting. And yes we do have a full propane tank. Yes, the valve was open, and yes, the stove burners and the refrigerator all ran without problem. The only variable that I could think of was in the instances where we had failure and again this morning, was that the slider was extended. The repair shop likely did not run the slider out. So I ran the slider back in, and the furnace fired up without any issue, and is still running without problem. So, I am thinking kink in the furnace line somewhere that is being triggered by the slider extending. Since the propane lines split into four lines behind the tank, and run out of that area together, and the other appliances all work, probably in some area where that line is alone. The furnace sits pretty much above the wheel well, and I am not seeing any easily viewed gas line in that area. Anybody else have this problem, and any suggestions for finding where that kink might be?

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Old 12-17-2018, 08:53 PM   #2
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Model: View
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THOR #7987
Update

So, finally found the problem: gas line gets totally squished up against the edge of the hole in the floor under the sink when the slider goes out. Looks like some things shifted over time, and the other hoses and electrical etc., pushed the one gas line, which just happened to be for the furnace, up against the edge of the hole and compressed it enough to prevent function. Going to work on enlarging the hole today. Had to take out not only the back panel under the sink cupboard, but the flooring of the cupboard as well to get to it, in case anyone else needs to access this area due to compressed things.
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Old 12-18-2018, 10:50 AM   #3
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State: Missouri
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THOR #5437
I have the cold water line that goes to the bathroom with the same problem on my 29.3. We have to hook the water up first run the facets in bathroom and then open the slide, all due to compressed water line. Thanks for the information sounds like a spring work project.
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Old 12-18-2018, 06:12 PM   #4
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Brand: Still Looking
Model: View
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THOR #7987
Quote:
Originally Posted by be happy View Post
I have the cold water line that goes to the bathroom with the same problem on my 29.3. We have to hook the water up first run the facets in bathroom and then open the slide, all due to compressed water line. Thanks for the information sounds like a spring work project.
Be Happy, we had the same problem, but with the hot water line that went to the bathroom. Running water at the same time as we extended the slider finally didn't help any more, so realized we needed to do something to figure it out. The fix was to remove the back panel under the sink, locate the water line in question, unhook it from (in our case) the water heater end, un-kink it, remove it from the black bag that it folds into, and put it into proper alignment, hook it back up. lay it on top of the black bag, and it hasn't caused us any problems since. While we had the panel out, hubby cut me a nice little square in the panel that matches up with the lower valve handle on the water heater bypass system. All in all, once I figured out where to go, it was about a 30 minute process, including the modification to the panel itself. We did the mod to the panel because we live in cold country, and like to travel to warmer places several times during the winter, so we end up winterizing and de-winterizing sometimes three times during the winter. We prefer the bypassing and emptying the water heater and pumping in RV antifreeze method. Which we actually have down to about a ten minute process doing it together. However, even with my fairly small arms, I would scratch myself up reaching the bottom valve handle. Hubby couldn't reach into that space in our rig and turn the bottom valve. So for me, that was a wonderful and simple mod that makes my life so much easier, and decreased the time it takes to winterize. Win/win!
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