Schwintek LCI Wall Slide and Bunk Issues Opinion

[Cakeman]

Just curious, has anyone reached out to Thor to see if you specific coach needs a slide lock or is designed for one?
Thanks Bradley

[cbergren]

I recently bought a 2012 Tuscany 40FX. The drivers side slide always worked very hard and very often would not come in all the way. After several efforts by the dealer’s tech, the slide was finally “adjusted” and re-centered. Now, it still works hard, but does come all the way in. HOWEVER, when driving, it produces a nerve-crushing squawk which is totally unacceptable. The tech told me that is the way many Schwintec slides act and hug suggested I use the slide lock to minimize the horrible squawking noise. There has got to be a fix! Anyone else have a similar issue with a “properly” centered Schwintec slide?

[DavidJoyce1]

Our THOR PALAZZO 36.1 Full Slide is 25ft it would be impossible to manually push this monster back in with out a Fork Lift...

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by DavidJoyce1

Our THOR PALAZZO 36.1 Full Slide is 25ft it would be impossible to manually push this monster back in with out a Fork Lift...

Have you tried it? The one I did by myself was not full wall but it was a big living room slide. It might well take two people to help keep it balanced going in but I’d bet you could do it. The motors that normally do it are quite small, after all. Another reason to try it ahead of the need - to see if you can.

[Rusbet]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

Have you tried it? The one I did by myself was not full wall but it was a big living room slide. It might well take two people to help keep it balanced going in but I’d bet you could do it. The motors that normally do it are quite small, after all. Another reason to try it ahead of the need - to see if you can.

I am looking at a Freedom Elite 24FE and wondering what is the possibility that the slides would not retract and what would I, as a solo woman, do then? Especially if I am boondocking somewhere. Scares me.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by Rusbet

I am looking at a Freedom Elite 24FE and wondering what is the possibility that the slides would not retract and what would I, as a solo woman, do then? Especially if I am boondocking somewhere. Scares me.

If you’re buying from a dealer ask them to show you the manual procedure and try it before you buy it. It really isn’t difficult though you do need a ladder. And a slide lock to hold it “in” once it’s retracted with the motors disconnected. The slide lock can be as simple as a piece of scrap 2x4 if you take the time to measure and cut it before you need it. Many people never experience a slide failure but most everyone worries about it and you’ll avoid a lot of stress if you’re confident that you can deal with it. Good luck.

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Pete'sMH

If you’re buying from a dealer ask them to show you the manual procedure and try it before you buy it. It really isn’t difficult though you do need a ladder. And a slide lock to hold it “in” once it’s retracted with the motors disconnected. The slide lock can be as simple as a piece of scrap 2x4 if you take the time to measure and cut it before you need it. Many people never experience a slide failure but most everyone worries about it and you’ll avoid a lot of stress if you’re confident that you can deal with it. Good luck.

Very true. The small bedroom slide can be moved easily if the motor brakes are disabled. Even though the bottom of the slide is level with my head, I was able to push it in with one hand. The larger 12 foot slide does require the motors to be disconnected for one person to move the slide. Tilting the coach really helps big slide. On side effect of being retired is I have time to experiment with the "What if".

[reminckv]

I'm with DavidJoyce1.... pushing in my full wall slide without a lot of help would be impossible although the concept of using the jacks to tilt the coach would certainly make it easier.

Reading the "what if" comments caused another question to pop into my little mind. What is the easiest way to de-energize the braking by the motors? Can this be done by pulling a fuse, the use/store switch, unplugging at the controller, etc??? Accessing the motors is not difficult, but what's the easiest way to eliminate the braking?

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by reminckv

I'm with DavidJoyce1.... pushing in my full wall slide without a lot of help would be impossible although the concept of using the jacks to tilt the coach would certainly make it easier.

Reading the "what if" comments caused another question to pop into my little mind. What is the easiest way to de-energize the braking by the motors? Can this be done by pulling a fuse, the use/store switch, unplugging at the controller, etc??? Accessing the motors is not difficult, but what's the easiest way to eliminate the braking?

You just need to remove the 12 volt power from the motors. You can use the Use/store switch or master power (if the converter is also off). You can pull the 30 amps fuse in the power center. You can remove the large red wire from the controller. All will work. This makes slides with the 350:1 gear reduction relatively easy to push in. With the long slides with the 500:1 gear reduction, it would best to disengage the motors by removing the screw and lifting the motor up.

[reminckv]

Thanks, good info to have tucked away.

[Pete'sMH]

Originally Posted by reminckv

I'm with DavidJoyce1.... pushing in my full wall slide without a lot of help would be impossible although the concept of using the jacks to tilt the coach would certainly make it easier.



Reading the "what if" comments caused another question to pop into my little mind. What is the easiest way to de-energize the braking by the motors? Can this be done by pulling a fuse, the use/store switch, unplugging at the controller, etc??? Accessing the motors is not difficult, but what's the easiest way to eliminate the braking?

Not to flog a deceased equine but have you actually tried it with the motors disconnected? I’m thinking two people could do it though I’d be interested to hear how it goes if you do try. At the very least you’d be experienced in disconnecting the motors - it was easy on mine but not especially intuitive. And you could learn how many folks it takes to push it in. Even if it takes 3 (or even if it takes 4 or 5) at least you’d know. My guess is that it would not be difficult to round up some strong backs in a campground and, again you’d never be stressed about a potential failure again.

[Lt Keefer]

Back to the slide locks for a moment. On my 29M there is not a place to put a slide lock. The trim board that goes around the face of the slide was attached using a pneumatic pin nailer. No metal brackets at all. I doubt it would stand up to the weight of the slide going down the road as it popped loose after 18 months of use. I reattached it with a bunch of robertson screws the factory guys left behind drawers and under the slide itself.

[reminckv]

I think I know the answer to my satisfaction. My slide consists of the sleeper sofa, the entire kitchen including residential refrig, microwave, cabinets, hot water heater, furnace, and the entire BR wall incl all closets and drawers. Not to mention the structure of a ~26' long floor to wall slide. Call me a wimp, but I'm not pushing that anywhere. I've accessed the motors but assumed that pulling a fuse would be easier for most people.

[reminckv]

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

Back to the slide locks for a moment. On my 29M there is not a place to put a slide lock. The trim board that goes around the face of the slide was attached using a pneumatic pin nailer. No metal brackets at all. I doubt it would stand up to the weight of the slide going down the road as it popped loose after 18 months of use. I reattached it with a bunch of robertson screws the factory guys left behind drawers and under the slide itself.

Mine's the same. That's why I put it on top where there is a metal rail.

[Lt Keefer]

What metal rail? The slide bar would just pop off the trim board as it is not structural and held on with pin nails.

[reminckv]

On the top, mine had a "c" shaped metal rail that runs the full length of the slide. I hook one end of the slidelock under it. Would send a pic, but am not near the coach now.

[reminckv]

I just made it to the MH and took a couple of pics of my slidelock installed. I'm not sure if all of the full length slides have the metal on the top or not. I bent a little piece of steel to spread out the force over a wider area so that more screws are in play. I also added a pic of two aluminum angles which are mounted on the side of the slide. They don't seem to serve any purpose as installed but may make a good perch for a lock.

[71_340]

I have the same c-channel on top of my slide room, I think its purpose is to redirect any water towards the sides of the slide room when it is extended. That way it will run off the sides instead of coming inside. Whatever it is, it works because I don't get any water inside with the slide out.

And yes, I agree, good place to place a lock. I buy me a lock tomorrow since I have an appointment at the dealer.

[DavidJoyce1]

We are going to cut a couple 1 1/4' x 1 1/4" Square pieces of wood and store them in our compartments, for a just in case we need them...

[howzball]

When we had our rear full side slide motor fail just disconnecting the power would not release the brake and we had to remove the motor hold down screw from outside the coach, pop the motor up and it took 3 guys to move the one corner enough to access and replace the motor.

It may have just been because the motor had failed but, without popping the motor up pushing the slide wasn't going to happen.

Our original slide motors had no weather protection so it explained why every time it rained we had slide trouble. The newer motors as you can see in the image have the black covering on them.