Schwintek LCI Wall Slide and Bunk Issues Opinion

reminckv · 08-02-2020, 07:07 PM

I have owned a 2016 Hurricane 32N for about 6 months now and have learned a lot from this forum and other sources about some of the more problematic systems in our Thor coaches. One of these systems seems to be the Schwintek slide outs (especially full wall slides) and front bunks. Based on what I have read as well as my own experiences, I have a come to an opinion that I wonder how many of you agree with. First, a little background.

During my first months of ownership and first trip, I noticed that on occasion there would be a loud pop when the slide was extended. This seemed to only occur on the first extension after a trip. I never found anything definite, but during inspection I did notice a little more wear on the first few grooves of the racks compared to the rest of them. Also, after my first trip, I noticed that my front bunk had dropped and there was an error code flashing on the controller. I was able to get the error cleared and the bunk up and level. I then inserted the pins properly and lowered the bunk onto the pins. I haven’t had any problems since but this got me thinking about the slide.

Here’s the conclusion I have come to (right or wrong): I think it would be best if the Schwintek motor/gear assembly is not under a load when not activated. Put another way, they should not be subjected to the outward forces of the full wall slide while bouncing down the road and turning right hand curves. Likewise, the bunk motor/gear assy should not be supporting that bunk, the pins should.

Once I started using slide locks on my slide, I have not had a single pop. From other posts, I know that some people use slide locks on their full wall slides, but I suspect that many don’t as they have primarily been sold as a safety measure. I think their biggest benefit may be taking some pressure off of the gears and motors. It’s my opinion that with the use of locks, making sure the coach is level before extension, lubing the motor/gear coupling, and inspecting for screws backing out, owners may be able to minimize many of the problems that occur. Just my opinion and we all know what that is worth!

ducksface · 08-02-2020, 07:16 PM

Any moving part you can lock down will probably benefit from it.
A sweeping cloverleaf turn puts a giant crap load of force on the outside rv slide. Maybe hundreds of pounds, maybe one thousand... All pounding on that first aluminum(?) tooth while trying to simultaneously climb to level due to centrifugal force, pulling one rail off the other.

We know what an unlatched car door does on any sweeping turn at speed and some of us know the hundred pounds of force it takes to keep it attached to the car by hand when a latch fails.
Multiply that little car door by your giant slide.
Car doors are held by bearclaw latches, slides are held by teeth the size of watch-band links.

Keep your pinned.
You're exactly correct.

And
Stalling the slide motor when opening or closing allows the gear box at 188:1 or whichever you have to act as a brake and latch.

reminckv · 08-04-2020, 02:18 PM

Thanks for your reply duckface. With as many problems as we see, I am surprised that others haven't chimed in. Maybe I was way too wordy.

I still wonder how many problems could be avoided if owners would lock their full wall slides and drop the bunk on the pins?

ducksface · 08-04-2020, 02:41 PM

The audience here isn't too advanced minded.
It's not a problem for them until it is a problem.

Don't be discouraged. It was an excellent post.

Beau388 · 08-04-2020, 03:37 PM

The slide motors are all equipped with an electric motor brake. Any time the power center's 12 volt section has power, the motor's brake is applied. This requires a 3 to 4 amp draw through the 30 amp fuse. Activating the slide's controller deactivates the brakes. Considering there is a 350:1 or 500:1 gear reduction in the motor than is quit a bit of holding force. That said, the slide can gradually vibrate out a little if the road is rough.

Travelin' Texans · 08-04-2020, 04:28 PM

Our 5th wheel hah a Schwintec bedroom slide that gave problems in the beginning. While at a rally we took it to the factory for our list of warranty items, that slide was one item. The techs checked out, showed me where/how to lube the tracks & motors & how the sync the motors & keep them synced.
To sync them extend the slide 3-4 inches then retract repeating 4-5 times in a row then fully extend, once you hear the motor stop continue to press the button for 3-5 seconds, fully retract & hold the button for 3-5 seconds after slide & motor stops. They said that every time you extend/retract to hold the button for that 3-5 seconds after the slide & motor stop will keep everything thing synced & working properly along with the periodic lubrication.
The techs also recommended treating all the slide seals monthly with Pledge furniture polish (I used the dollar store imitation) , works as well & much cheaper than seal conditioners sold at RV stores, spray on a rag, wrap around the seal as best you can & wipe top to bottom, use it on all the seals & rubber gaskets throughout the coach.

reminckv · 08-04-2020, 05:50 PM

Thanks for the comments, I learn something everytime I'm on here. We know that the slide does move in some cases/situations. That being said, either the forces are causing the motor to rotate some (overpowering the brake) or the gear(s) are jumping a tooth. Jumping a tooth is probably less likely but I have read that it does happen. As you know, the motors use Hall's effect sensors. So....if there wasn't some undesired movement, then why all of the need to resync? Just thinking out loud. So back to my initial question. If the movement is eliminated by a lock, would there be as many sync problems and/or problems with peoples slides going in and out crooked?

reminckv · 08-04-2020, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans

Our 5th wheel hah a Schwintec bedroom slide that gave problems in the beginning. While at a rally we took it to the factory for our list of warranty items, that slide was one item. The techs checked out, showed me where/how to lube the tracks & motors & how the sync the motors & keep them synced.
To sync them extend the slide 3-4 inches then retract repeating 4-5 times in a row then fully extend, once you hear the motor stop continue to press the button for 3-5 seconds, fully retract & hold the button for 3-5 seconds after slide & motor stops. They said that every time you extend/retract to hold the button for that 3-5 seconds after the slide & motor stop will keep everything thing synced & working properly along with the periodic lubrication.
The techs also recommended treating all the slide seals monthly with Pledge furniture polish (I used the dollar store imitation) , works as well & much cheaper than seal conditioners sold at RV stores, spray on a rag, wrap around the seal as best you can & wipe top to bottom, use it on all the seals & rubber gaskets throughout the coach.

Thanks. These are definitely good suggestions by the techs. What they don't address is unintended movement by the slide while driving in some instances (mostly full wall slides it seems). I don't guess that I'll every prove or disprove the value of slide locks, but it sure seems like a good idea to lock those big slides down while travelling to keep all that pressure off of those motors and small gear teeth.

JoeDS · 08-05-2020, 01:49 AM

Im assuming that a slide lock is a wood stick with rubber bumpers? Ive seen those included with many RVs. My 24.1 vegas did not come with anything like that.

reminckv · 08-05-2020, 01:49 PM

I had one in my used coach when I bought it and then purchased a second so that I can have one on each end of the big slide to take pressure off of the motor/gears. I'm attaching a pic of the one I have. They are not easy to find.
They are made in different length ranges and use a "turnbuckle" design. Making one out of a dowel or 2x4 would be pretty easy, but I like the ability to adjust the pressure. Making a couple out of a turnbuckle from Tractor Supply might be an option. I put mine on the top of the slide and it is pressing against a metal rail instead of on the trim. One major watch out is that you don't want to extend the slide without removing them. I put a reminder flag on the button when they are in use.

JoeDS · 08-05-2020, 02:42 PM

OK. Very good. Now I know for sure. Appreciate the help.

I wonder why Thor didn't include that? Although my slide is only about 7 feet wide may be the reason.

reminckv · 08-05-2020, 02:47 PM

I'm not certain, but I don't think Thor includes them an any coaches. I don't think I would worry about locking a 7 foot slide unless I saw some movement or started having problems with having to resync often or was getting error messages on the controller. Wouldn't hurt though.

halfprice · 08-05-2020, 02:57 PM

Two slide locks came with my mh

Beau388 · 08-05-2020, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by reminckv

Thanks for the comments, I learn something everytime I'm on here. We know that the slide does move in some cases/situations. That being said, either the forces are causing the motor to rotate some (overpowering the brake) or the gear(s) are jumping a tooth. Jumping a tooth is probably less likely but I have read that it does happen. As you know, the motors use Hall's effect sensors. So....if there wasn't some undesired movement, then why all of the need to resync? Just thinking out loud. So back to my initial question. If the movement is eliminated by a lock, would there be as many sync problems and/or problems with peoples slides going in and out crooked?

The reason to resync the slide's motors is you have a digital comptroller controlling an analog circuit. The side motor's speed is controlled by varying the voltage to the motor. Since it is reasonable to assume the slide's resistance to movement is not linear and uniform side to side, the motors will drift out of sync. This could be eliminated by using a stepper type of motor but you would not be willing to pay the price.

In-flood slides used by Entrgra REDs use a common drive shaft for all gears in the slide's tracks, so the slide is always in sync. This system would require a major chassis modification (raised rail chassis) to the std Ford gas chassis as well as a significant change in the way the in-wall slides are built..

Campnjoe · 08-05-2020, 03:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by halfprice

Two slide locks came with my mh

That is super interesting to hear. Where were they located?

As to the discussion, on my 29m I always have a little movement and when we get to where we are going I run the slide in and hold before I extend it. Also when I am about to retract, I extend and hold just before. This is in the manual.

Elite Washington · 08-05-2020, 04:26 PM

My coach doesn’t have a full wall slide so I can’t speak to that. I wonder if using slide locks that push against the wall in theory is worse then putting pressure on a motor. Thor not selling coaches with them may be based on that thinking. Replacing a motor is better then a wall. I just have a slide in the front and one in the back I notice a pop from time to time with it but I have come to notice it’s just all the rubber seals when they change direction.

Lt Keefer · 08-05-2020, 04:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elite Washington

My coach doesn’t have a full wall slide so I can’t speak to that. I wonder if using slide locks that push against the wall in theory is worse then putting pressure on a motor. Thor not selling coaches with them may be based on that thinking. Replacing a motor is better then a wall. I just have a slide in the front and one in the back I notice a pop from time to time with it but I have come to notice it’s just all the rubber seals when they change direction.

I was thinking the same thing. Having the weight of the slide pushing against the wall in two place rather than having 6 points from the slide tracks.

Elite Washington · 08-05-2020, 06:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lt Keefer

I was thinking the same thing. Having the weight of the slide pushing against the wall in two place rather than having 6 points from the slide tracks.

That’s my thoughts. How much pressure in one spot that is built for that. Versus a motor that is set in specifically designed to handle pressures

JoeDS · 08-05-2020, 08:52 PM

Lots of interesting and thought provoking ideas in this thread!!!!

Beau388 · 08-05-2020, 09:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoeDS

Lots of interesting and thought provoking ideas in this thread!!!!

My one slide lock came in the Thor black bag with the wheel simulator wrench, the charger for the Rapid Camp remote and the manuals for all the installed appliances plus Thor MC's operations manual. During the PDI the delivery tech took time to explain a summary of what was in each manual and demonstrated how each device worked.

The backside of the slide's decorative surround is a 2x6 affixed to the slides true wall with four 8" long steel L brackets. The coach's wall that surrounds the slide opening has an embedded 1 inch square aluminum tubing (two tubes if the slide is over 10 feet in length). A doubt a single slide lock would cause any damage to the decorative surround or coach unless it is left in and you try to open the slide.

If you ever get to tour a Thor MC factory, a lot of the questions presented in this thread would be answered by the tour guide or seeing just how your coach is assembled.

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