Schwintek Motor Retention Screw Stripped

[LDK]

Had Camping World replace a slide out motor a couple months ago. Noticed the retention screw was loose.

Checked closer and screw will not tighten - is stripped. I noticed for whatever reason the retention screw was changed - is now a pan head type versus factory Square. See pic.

I looked at images and appears the retention screw goes into a slot in the motor so assuming the motor should be ok? See pic.

Can you suggest a proper fix? Thank you.

[LDK]

Since the screw was changed, am going to try one of the factory square screws from my other slide motors. Fingers crossed.

[TripleGGG]

Is your retention screw going through the rubber sweep? I don't think that is correct? Mine are under the rubber.

[LDK]

Yes. All 3 slides are the same.

[TripleGGG]

Interesting. On all of mine, the retention screws are under the rubber. You have to pull the rubber back to get to them.

[Scubawise]

Same here under rubber..good luck

[ducksface]

I need to see the screw to give you a viable and quick fix.
Different strokes required for different screw/bolts.

Post a pic.

[Judge]

This is one of the reasons why I replaced the Schwintek Slide Mechanism with the Vroom Slide System.... the lousy and weak setscrew design.

The setscrew can often back out far enough.... or even shear off.... such that the motor will start lifting out of the bearing block when retracting. One of the design changes with the Vroom Mechanism is that the motor is bolted down with 4 bolts vs 1 flimsy screw.

In most cases the setscrew can and does go through the outer wipe-seal plastic base. From there is threads through a thin piece of aluminum that is part of the H-column. About an 18" of screw goes through the slot in the top of the motor to secure it in place, which is a joke for large and heavy slides and the amount of torque generated when extending and retracting.

The problem with this design is that the aluminum is so thin that only a couple threads actually can bite into the aluminum and it is easy to over-tighten and strip the aluminum threads.

My factory setscrews were Phillips pan head screws... the lack of attention to detail during assembly would not surprise me if they aren't using a standard screw across all coaches.

You could use a sheet metal screw. Your biggest concern is the length. If the screw is too long, it can hit the motor shaft at the top of the motor. Once you have the right screw length just make sure it bites securely but don't over-tighten it. As I said there is not much aluminum and it can easily be stripped.

[DavidEM]

I would drill and tap the stripped hole for a larger machine screw, not a sheet metal screw. I have no idea how to do this as you would have to remove the motor.

David

[Judge]

Originally Posted by DavidEM

I would drill and tap the stripped hole for a larger machine screw, not a sheet metal screw. I have no idea how to do this as you would have to remove the motor.

David

Drilling it out and tapping it is an option but you are going to get metal fillings all over the place. Besides removing the motor you have to worry about the bearing block.

A sheet metal or self-taping screw is the best option given how thin the aluminum is.

[ducksface]

If the op comes back, I'll have a
No tap
Fix for it.

[LDK]

Originally Posted by ducksface

I need to see the screw to give you a viable and quick fix.
Different strokes required for different screw/bolts.

Post a pic.

Here is a pic of the 2 set screws on my large slide. The one on the left is original factory, and the one on the right is what Camping World used when replacing the rear slide motor.

Just for grins l, I did try using the factory screw in the rear, and confirmed the hole is indeed stripped.

[LDK]

Originally Posted by ducksface

If the op comes back, I'll have a

No tap

Fix for it.

Hi. Not sure if you saw my latest post to include a pic of the screw. Look forward to hearing your suggestion.
Thank you.

[LDK]

Originally Posted by Judge

This is one of the reasons why I replaced the Schwintek Slide Mechanism with the Vroom Slide System.... the lousy and weak setscrew design.

The setscrew can often back out far enough.... or even shear off.... such that the motor will start lifting out of the bearing block when retracting. One of the design changes with the Vroom Mechanism is that the motor is bolted down with 4 bolts vs 1 flimsy screw.

In most cases the setscrew can and does go through the outer wipe-seal plastic base. From there is threads through a thin piece of aluminum that is part of the H-column. About an 18" of screw goes through the slot in the top of the motor to secure it in place, which is a joke for large and heavy slides and the amount of torque generated when extending and retracting.

The problem with this design is that the aluminum is so thin that only a couple threads actually can bite into the aluminum and it is easy to over-tighten and strip the aluminum threads.

My factory setscrews were Phillips pan head screws... the lack of attention to detail during assembly would not surprise me if they aren't using a standard screw across all coaches.

You could use a sheet metal screw. Your biggest concern is the length. If the screw is too long, it can hit the motor shaft at the top of the motor. Once you have the right screw length just make sure it bites securely but don't over-tighten it. As I said there is not much aluminum and it can easily be stripped.

Thank you. Agreed 1/8" doesnt sound like much. Do you suggest a longer screw, and if so, how much longer?

[ducksface]

Originally Posted by LDK

Hi. Not sure if you saw my latest post to include a pic of the screw. Look forward to hearing your suggestion.
Thank you.

Just now saw it.
I'll do pics for you tomorrow.

[Judge]

Originally Posted by LDK

Thank you. Agreed 1/8" doesnt sound like much. Do you suggest a longer screw, and if so, how much longer?

I once used a screw about 1/4" longer than the factory screw without it hitting the upper motor shaft. I would not go any longer than that unless you can get a borescope to see that the screw has not gone too far inside the motor.

I still personally think you could use a slightly larger self tapping screw and be ok.

[Drpaul78]

Nothing that happens at Camping World surprises me.

[ducksface]

No pics
But
Strip some 18 gauge+- multistrand wire.

Wrap the bolt threads, only in the valley of the threads, with ONE strand of the copper wire.
Dip the entire wrapped bolt in a thin layer in candle wax.
Slather a fair coat of jb weld onto the waxed bolt.
Drive it home
Leave it alone.

The wire will resize the bolt just enough and the copper will conform as needed.
The jb will make the internal stripped threads match the new oversize threads, permanently.
The wax will allow for later removal of the bolt if needed.
The waxed head will not bond to the case.
No shavings, no drilling, no depth problem .

IF you can get the stripped part on a work bench, helicoil it.

A couple of these wire fixes are pushing 40 years old here.
It works fine on small engine heads and does not pull loose.

[Drpaul78]

I always find it quite amazing how clever individuals like duckface with great solutions to RV problems. I have gotten a lot out of this site over the years.

[walkervalj]

Originally Posted by LDK

Had Camping World replace a slide out motor a couple months ago. Noticed the retention screw was loose.

Checked closer and screw will not tighten - is stripped. I noticed for whatever reason the retention screw was changed - is now a pan head type versus factory Square. See pic.

I looked at images and appears the retention screw goes into a slot in the motor so assuming the motor should be ok? See pic.

Can you suggest a proper fix? Thank you. Attachment 34850Attachment 34851

My solution to this frustrating problem. I attached an L bracket, with one leg to frame, other leg on top of motor. Took picture with my phone. Will attach photo, if I can figure out how.