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Old 02-03-2016, 06:59 PM   #21
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Model: 2012 Daybreak 28PD
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This pictures shows the bolt heads on the inside.

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Old 02-08-2016, 04:28 AM   #22
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THOR #3421
What does the other side look like?
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Old 02-08-2016, 07:58 PM   #23
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THOR #556
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Here are pictures of the outside.
The low profile bolt heads don't compromise the seal.
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Old 02-08-2016, 09:34 PM   #24
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Any concerns about drilling through and hitting wires?
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:07 PM   #25
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This is a closeup picture of the bolt head and washer. I had no problems with wires getting in the way. Just drilled through the rivet holes to the inside, but we have different model motorhomes so can't say for sure about yours.
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:11 PM   #26
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I do have one question about the slide. The 25.1 came with a racket for transport, but I see no reasonable to use it. Should I be using the travelling brace?
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:29 PM   #27
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Originally Posted by Bobm1964 View Post
Any concerns about drilling through and hitting wires?
Generally, with Mothorhomes, always a concern. Whenever I drill I carefully drill through the skin (first layer) I'm going through not just punch through hard. You can then fell around with a wire if you have any doubts at all. Around that area, I'd say no, but Murphys Law says.....
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Old 02-08-2016, 10:32 PM   #28
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I do have one question about the slide. The 25.1 came with a racket for transport, but I see no reasonable to use it. Should I be using the travelling brace?
If you are referring to the slide travel bars they are generally provided as a safety if the slide fails to operate and you need to transport the RV to a dealer for repair. Some folks use then while other folks don't. In fact, I have three slides in my coach and Thor only provided 4 travel locks. The reason for 4 is among the 3 slides, 2 use the same size bars while the bedroom slide requires a longer bar.
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Old 03-22-2016, 08:42 PM   #29
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We had a similar problem that our slide would not close flush. When closing, it would oftentimes stop when it was about one foot from being closed. I took to the dealer and was told that continually closing the slide when it was not flush would scrape off the paint and that the cause of the problem was a defective slide rail. Hopefully that is not your problem.
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:18 PM   #30
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actually my problem was due to opening the slide without airing out and leveling the unit.
easy fix!
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Old 03-22-2016, 09:45 PM   #31
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Also look at the video on lubricating the slide motors, that will make huge difference in the slide operation.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:00 PM   #32
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The Schwintek system counts on timing - the same number of revolutions on each motor to open/close... Partially opened (and probably other things) can cause the timing to get out of synch - it should be always fully opened or closed.
I haven't had to do this yet on mine -but here is a You Tube video on retiming the system:
He said to hold the switch 3 to 5 seconds after it is full open or closed? I always let go right at the end of open or closed. Hmmm.... This wont hurt the motors in the long run?
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:24 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by mustang94@hot.rr.com
This wont hurt the motors in the long run?
Not with the Schwintek mechanism. It has a controller that senses when the slide is at the limits and cuts current to the motors. You can hear them bear down and stop long before you let go of the switch.
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Old 03-22-2016, 11:41 PM   #34
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I have misplaced my notes on lubing the slide, what was the name of the spray they recommended?

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Old 03-23-2016, 01:25 AM   #35
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They recommend CRC silicone with teflon, but I've been using a silicone spray also with Teflon bought at most any automotive store or Wal-Mart & has worked well for 3+ years & is much cheaper than the CRC.
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Old 03-23-2016, 02:11 AM   #36
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Thanks. Got to get some.

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