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Old 09-08-2019, 02:05 PM   #1
I Think We're Lost!
 
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Model: Tiffin Wayfarer 24 BW
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THOR #8860
Sprinter Chassis Electrical Woes...

I think that I've really stepped in it now...
I went to open up our rig yesterday, in order to drop it down off it's leveling jacks.
The M-B key wasn't able to remotely unlock the chassis doors: nothing at all happened!
So I open up the coach, and put the key in the ignition...
It wouldn't unlock, and it wouldn't turn.
Then I noticed that there seems to be no power at all up front.
The coach is showing 12.5 volts after I pulled up the jacks...

I do remember that the last time I had thrown my battery disconnect switches: I had some sparking. I thought nothing of it at that time...
I might have popped a main relay or fuse!
I've been digging around in the Fuse Allocation Supplement for about three hours,m and am still stumped.
Can anybody tell me where the Chassis' main breaker might be hidden?
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:28 PM   #2
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THOR #8860
Bump...
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:29 PM   #3
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Model: 2016 Siesta Sprinter 24ST
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THOR #2812
Bob- You mention coach battery and battery disconnect- both are not part of the chassis electrical. If your rig has been stored, for some time, the Chassis battery may be dead. It is not charged by electrical power (120 volt power cord) connected to the coach, in most Sprinter RV's.
Check your chassis voltage here (Red Connector) and also connect a charger at this terminal - driver side of the air filter. I use a 'Batter Minder' when not in use for a long time. Plug in to power point (cigarette lighter) in the lower dash..
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Old 09-08-2019, 03:40 PM   #4
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I plugged in a battery charger to that hot lead, and found a good spot to stick the ground cable down on a motor mount...

The needle never moved: just as if nothing was connected.
I even "jiggled" that ground cable around a bit; thinking that some paint or grease might be in the way...

Everything is deader than a hooker's heart: up front.

EDIT: that hot lead is an excellently designed addition to the underhood stuff!
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Old 09-08-2019, 05:11 PM   #5
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Hi, I am not familiar with Sprinter chassis but some comments for what it is worth:
Some battery chargers require a minimum voltage on the battery terminals being charged before they will turn on and actually charge......so if your chassis battery is totally dead this may be the reason. You might have to boost the dead battery from another charged car battery to start your charger. Sounds like your chassis battery only charges when the engine is running (unless other methods are used). I suspect the battery isolator system under the driver seat only connects the coach batteries when the engine is running and the alternator is above 13 volts or so.......but does not work the other way when on shore power without mods.


On a side note, if you have a Fusion radio system in a Sprinter class RV it appears there can be issues when the chassis battery dies or disconnects with the Fusion system re-booting in a wrong configuration and affecting the CANbus connected systems in your coach. If you donít have the Fusion head unit then ignore this......for those who might have one in Sprinter class coach .......see the attached:


Dead Chassis Batt now Most Sprinter Electrical Systems Fail - Airstream Forums
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:25 PM   #6
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You may not be familiar with Sprinters: but you knocked this one OUT OF THE PARK!!!
I had completely forgotten about really low batteries not liking to take a charge.
But I pulled the Toad around to the side of the rig, pulled the battery cover (under the driver's floorboards...), and hooked them up.
I gave it about 15 minutes for them to get to know each other, and then I gave it the "remote door lock/unlock" test
Boom-Chaka-Laka!
Put the key in the ignition, and things started waking up. Once I gave it a twist: it came to life with a "What are you looking at me like that?" attitude.
For funsies: I also have started the generator, and put a bit of a load on it. I expect to let it idle out here for a couple of hours, and then I'll start doing a systems check.
So until you're better paid> Thanks a MILLION!
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:41 PM   #7
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Glad things are charging for you now Bob.

I think there are articles on line in other forums about replacing the Sprinter class one way battery isolator device under the driver seat to a system that allows bi directional charging......so charges both battery strings if either shore/gen or alternator is running under certain voltage and time parameters. I am not sure how that might affect your warranty though......something to research, until your warranty times out I guess.
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Old 09-08-2019, 06:49 PM   #8
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THOR #2812
Good catch!!

Bob FWIW- that red terminal is the preferred connect for jump starting also...

If you store the RV with power it's a good idea to use a trickle charge on the chassis. If stored without power, pull the chassis battery negative disconnect terminal next to the accelerator pedal. . Read manual, turn off and remove key and wait for computer to count fingers and toes before disconnect. 15-30 secs ??
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Old 09-08-2019, 07:08 PM   #9
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Thanks for the info!
I figured that I'd jump it directly to the battery since I already had the cover off to check the voltage at the source...
There's a great spot under the hood for a battery charger to sit. I may just stuff a water proof Battery Tender Jr. up under there.
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Old 09-09-2019, 12:53 AM   #10
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I have a paved pad and a power pedestal at home. RV always plugged in, fridge running and AC set on 85 during Florida summer. Battery Minder 1500 is plugged into slideout for power and into dash power point for charging. On my RV that socket connects directly to chassis battery and is always hot.
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Old 09-09-2019, 06:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Denman View Post
You may not be familiar with Sprinters: but you knocked this one OUT OF THE PARK!!!
I had completely forgotten about really low batteries not liking to take a charge.
But I pulled the Toad around to the side of the rig, pulled the battery cover (under the driver's floorboards...), and hooked them up.
I gave it about 15 minutes for them to get to know each other, and then I gave it the "remote door lock/unlock" test
Boom-Chaka-Laka!
Put the key in the ignition, and things started waking up. Once I gave it a twist: it came to life with a "What are you looking at me like that?" attitude.
For funsies: I also have started the generator, and put a bit of a load on it. I expect to let it idle out here for a couple of hours, and then I'll start doing a systems check.
So until you're better paid> Thanks a MILLION!
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Old 09-09-2019, 10:51 AM   #12
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Bob..... do yourself a favor and make life a little easier.

Install the Trik-L-Start and let your house batteries maintain your chassis batter when you are plugged into shore power or running the genny.

I installed this on my Outlaw and have never had to worry about putting a tender on the chassis battery. When I am plugged into shore power, the chassis battery is being maintained.

And better than that.... after I installed my solar system earlier this summer, I don't even plug into shore power at home and the solar keeps both my house batteries and chassis battery maintained.

The install was super easy and I opted to mount the control unit in the cab so I could see the status lights easily.

https://www.lslproducts.net/TLSPage.html
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Old 09-09-2019, 11:13 AM   #13
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That looks like a "gotta have" item; Thanks!
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Old 09-21-2019, 07:19 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligan2 View Post
Bob- You mention coach battery and battery disconnect- both are not part of the chassis electrical. If your rig has been stored, for some time, the Chassis battery may be dead. It is not charged by electrical power (120 volt power cord) connected to the coach, in most Sprinter RV's.
Check your chassis voltage here (Red Connector) and also connect a charger at this terminal - driver side of the air filter. I use a 'Batter Minder' when not in use for a long time. Plug in to power point (cigarette lighter) in the lower dash..
We have the same rig and also same battery issues. In fact, had to jump mine when we picked it up yesterday for trip tomorrow.

Ref comment about the red positive connection to right of air filter for battery charge. Look at same elevation to right just below where hood closes. There is a bright copper colored bolt...that is the negative connection.
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Old 09-21-2019, 07:30 PM   #15
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I'm gonna look for that ground after supper...
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:23 PM   #16
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THOR #11024
Just to be clear....

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hooligan2 View Post
I have a paved pad and a power pedestal at home. RV always plugged in, fridge running and AC set on 85 during Florida summer. Battery Minder 1500 is plugged into slideout for power and into dash power point for charging. On my RV that socket connects directly to chassis battery and is always hot.
This thread has been so helpful. Thanks everyone.

When you store, to maintain the chassis battery you plug a battery minder into the always hot 12 volt cigarette type receptacle bottom of dashboard? What does "plugged into slide out mean?

Is there a reason I can't power the coach using an standard 15 amp household current, that would keep the inverter topping off the house batts. The run a cord from an AC outlet inside to (since I'm plugged in to AC) to the Battery Minder. BTW I don't see a 12 volt adapter as standard to the 1500. Do you just cut off the clamps and attach a 12 volt plug?

Or should I just cut power to the coach and attach a battery minder to the coach batts and another to the chassis.
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Old 09-23-2019, 02:33 PM   #17
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I do that all of the time with mine...

Oh... an update: I ordered a solar powered battery maintainer, and an a 16 foot extension line for it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 09-25-2019, 10:23 PM   #18
I Think We're Lost!
 
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State: New York
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THOR #8860
UPDATE: I got the solar charger today, and gave it a quick test.
It has a built-in MPPT controller, and a maximum output of 10 watts...
I plugged it in, and hooked it up: it started happily charging the chassis battery immediately..
I have a spot up front just above the incense plate; where I can hook a bracket, and have a place to mount the panel...
Once I get it bent correctly: I think that I can slide it into place, and lock it under the top edge of the bumper.
Here's a picture of he panel and it's bracket.

http://www.thorforums.com/forums/att...1&d=1569450226
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:31 PM   #19
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Model: 2016 Siesta Sprinter 24ST
State: Florida
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THOR #2812
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mred View Post
This thread has been so helpful. Thanks everyone.

When you store, to maintain the chassis battery you plug a battery minder into the always hot 12 volt cigarette type receptacle bottom of dashboard? What does "plugged into slide out mean?

Is there a reason I can't power the coach using an standard 15 amp household current, that would keep the inverter topping off the house batts. The run a cord from an AC outlet inside to (since I'm plugged in to AC) to the Battery Minder. BTW I don't see a 12 volt adapter as standard to the 1500. Do you just cut off the clamps and attach a 12 volt plug?

Or should I just cut power to the coach and attach a battery minder to the coach batts and another to the chassis.
..............
Sure- A 15 amp circuit should be able to run the inverter/charger and the Battery Minder.
By "plugged into the slideout" I use an AC outlet in the slideout that is close to the cockpit. Battery Minder has an accessory 12 volt plug that connects directly to their cord It's VPP-12 and lists at 10.95
https://www.batteryminders.com/12-24...cle-power-plug
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Old 11-12-2019, 11:47 PM   #20
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Word of warning, I have been told that the chassis and house electrical must remain isolated, according to Mercedes, on the Sprinter. When in storage I keep a small intelligent charger connected to the chassis battery, there are easy to access connections under the hood. Plugging into shore power will have zero effect on the chassis battery. The only crossover I see, is when traveling, the engine alternator will charge the house batteries.
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