Starting problems on 2015 Thor Axis 25.1

flipper003 · 03-16-2019, 09:10 PM

This is the third attempt to post this. I am logged in and as soon as I try to submit it as a new thread it says I am not logged in and I lose everything I have typed. When I went to start to start my Axis 25.1 I just got a click from the solenoid. All batteries are fully charged and the chassis battery is also new. I have had no prior problems with it starting and I had driven it a week ago for a
couple of hours. I took the old starter off and got a new one, which yielded the same result, just one clack, no spinning or any other noises. The horn is loud. lights are bright so I think the issue maybe power to the starter. I checked the #2 relay which is located in the fuse box on the driver's side front, under "hood"
and it is good. All wiring and contacts are clean with no corrosion anywhere.
I am hoping someone might be able to suggest some other check to fix this.
Thanks in advance - fingers crossed!

Trkyte@msn.com · 03-16-2019, 09:37 PM

Clack???? With new starter. wow!
First thing I would do is put a wrench on the crankshaft on see if the engine turns.
Then with the headlights on, try to start and see if they dim.
Don't dim, power not getting to starter.
If they dim then power is there but not enough, bad cable or battery cranking amps no longer there.

javelin · 03-17-2019, 03:46 PM

On my coach (ACE F53) relay 2 in the power distribution box (in the engine compartment) is the fuel pump relay; relay 4 is the starter relay.....but I don't know your Axis at all......just asking if you checked the correct relay with a Ford manual?

Also the "time out" for entering info on the forum can be a PIA (but they try to limit logons who look like they are not doing much I guess). I found if when you log on, check the "remember me" box.....you stay connected longer. Also use a word processor to draft your text first; then logon to the forum; copy and paste your text into the forum entry and post.

flipper003 · 03-17-2019, 08:24 PM

I can't get a wrench on to turn the engine but I know it will turn. I had the lights on and tried to start - lights did not dim - and it just did one click. This RV only
has 8k miles on it and I put the last 1k on and it runs great, as it should.
I am thinking it has to be a starter relay in the fuse box but I have tried switching
the existing starter relay with another same kind relay from another source and
that did not change anything so I think that relay is good. On my Axis it was 2nd
from the left on the back row and is black rectangle about 1" x 1/2" and 1" high.
the one for the windshield wipers was identical so I tried that one in the starter slot. No change. I saw several other starter fuses listed and checked those and all appear to be good. At this point I don't know what else to check - anymore suggestions are welcome! Thank you.

Trkyte@msn.com · 03-17-2019, 08:37 PM

Where do you hear the clicking?

When you said clunk in the first message, was that a clunk or misspelled click?

Far reaching but..... Is the shifter lockout messed up? Try to start in neutral or wiggle the shifter while starting.

javelin · 03-17-2019, 08:58 PM

Hi, I am not sure if your coach is similar to mine in terms of Ford fusing but there is also a 10 amp fuse in position 9 of the Power Distribution box in the engine bay that is labelled as starter relay coil; starter ground relay circuit. From your description I assume your reay flips were regarding relay #4? Ther are a couple of old Ford starter circuits on a web link if you scroll down it that might be similar to what you have .....the one that seems to go through the PCM (Power Control Module) may be the more modern schematic to use. There is not much else to check if the fuses and relays are good; you replaced the starter itself......so connections of key cabling and the chassis battery is about it. Hope this link works as I have had some issues with them in the past.

https://www.justanswer.com/ford/5ugu...-m-having.html

flipper003 · 03-17-2019, 10:56 PM

Trkyte - the click is coming from the starter. Tried wiggling the shift lever and also in neutral but that made no difference. The starter was exactly like the original so I am sure it isn't a fitment issue.

Javelin - I did get the link you listed and it did provide some info but nothing I could use to fix the problem. I have been working on my own cars since my '57
Ford and have never run into something like this before - very frustrating.
I did try swapping every fuse and relay related to the starter with other similar fuses/relays but that didn't change anything. Like I said earlier in a post, this is
a newer RV with very low mileage and hasn't been in any floods here (Harvey) so
all the wiring and connections are in like new condition. This thing has been trouble free until I went to start it the other day - no warning on this issue.

mcr1010 · 03-17-2019, 11:07 PM

If you can't get it going, you have free towing with Ford to an authorized dealer that can work on it and perhaps free fix. You can call the Ford number for repair.........don't have it handy and they will make all the arrangements for you. I had to do it once, when mine would not start. Turned out to be a vac. line leak. Yours is probably something simple also, but tough to track down.
Good luck

Trkyte@msn.com · 03-18-2019, 04:05 PM

OK that tells us that the starting circuit is probably good..
Next, put a voltmeter on the heavy battery wire at the starter.

If you have 12+ volts, try to start it and read VOM. No change ,solenoid or starter bad.
If it drops a lot then battery or wire is corroded in the crimps.

Ford use to use a auxiliary starter solinoid mounted on the inner fender. If no voltage at the starter then they are still using them. Try to start and see voltage again.

Good luck. (Doing my best ,not being there!)
Tom

flipper003 · 03-21-2019, 10:52 PM

Thanks to all those who tried to help - it is much appreciated. I think I tested everything in it except the battery because it was 2 months old. Long story short, I bit the bullet and pulled it out and load tested it and it was dead - even though my charger said it was fully charged (I neglected to try the analyze mode). I got another battery (no charge - warranty) and put it in and lo and behold it started just fine. Oh what a relief that is! Thanks again all. By the way, the link you (Javelin) posted was excellent and I went through them trying to sort this out - I was in denial about the battery because it was the 2nd one but
so far the 3rd one is a charm.

The_Breeze · 03-22-2019, 01:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javelin

...Also the "time out" for entering info on the forum can be a PIA (but they try to limit logons who look like they are not doing much I guess). I found if when you log on, check the "remember me" box.....you stay connected longer. Also use a word processor to draft your text first; then logon to the forum; copy and paste your text into the forum entry and post.

The short cut to the word processor is to use the edit box. Type what need to, Hit CTRL+A then CTRL+C. If you time out, log back on and in the edit box type CTRL+V - then Submit.

Easy Peasy

The_Breeze · 03-22-2019, 01:32 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flipper003

Thanks to all those who tried to help - it is much appreciated. I think I tested everything in it except the battery because it was 2 months old. Long story short, I bit the bullet and pulled it out and load tested it and it was dead - even though my charger said it was fully charged (I neglected to try the analyze mode). I got another battery (no charge - warranty) and put it in and lo and behold it started just fine. Oh what a relief that is! Thanks again all. By the way, the link you (Javelin) posted was excellent and I went through them trying to sort this out - I was in denial about the battery because it was the 2nd one but
so far the 3rd one is a charm.

I'd keep looking? If you're killing batteries that fast, something's not right. There's a significant power draw somewhere.

javelin · 03-22-2019, 12:45 PM

Glad you resolved your starter problem.....and hey you became more intimate with your coach starter systems as a side benefit too.

Now after installing this third chassis battery, check and make sure when you are on shore power that it is charging properly. Place a voltmeter across the chassis battery with engine off; no loads and shore power on for a minimum 5 minutes and you should see 13.1 volts or higher. Of course then you could also check with generator on as 120vac source and then try with only engine running to make sure all systems are charging that chassis battery. Enjoy.

vegasruv24.1 · 03-22-2019, 02:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flipper003

Thanks to all those who tried to help - it is much appreciated. I think I tested everything in it except the battery because it was 2 months old. Long story short, I bit the bullet and pulled it out and load tested it and it was dead - even though my charger said it was fully charged (I neglected to try the analyze mode). I got another battery (no charge - warranty) and put it in and lo and behold it started just fine. Oh what a relief that is! Thanks again all. By the way, the link you (Javelin) posted was excellent and I went through them trying to sort this out - I was in denial about the battery because it was the 2nd one but
so far the 3rd one is a charm.

not to cause you Greif, but,... gonna bet, gonna bet you have the same problem down the road...from what I read, you have a chassis and battery ground issue...what happens is it will kill batterys as the never get to full charge,,,, and bottom out cranking the engine, and running at full load ,...it also will kill the alt... what I do, and it's easy for me, because I have a lift for rv's I get under the coach, remove and clean all the paint off where all the grounds are attached... an easy test when you where cranking the starter would have been to put a jumper cable from the neg post direct to the engine and try...that would tell you quick if it's a bad ground...

The_Breeze · 03-22-2019, 07:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vegasruv24.1

not to cause you Greif, but,... gonna bet, gonna bet you have the same problem down the road...from what I read, you have a chassis and battery ground issue...what happens is it will kill batterys as the never get to full charge,,,, and bottom out cranking the engine, and running at full load ,...it also will kill the alt... what I do, and it's easy for me, because I have a lift for rv's I get under the coach, remove and clean all the paint off where all the grounds are attached... an easy test when you where cranking the starter would have been to put a jumper cable from the neg post direct to the engine and try...that would tell you quick if it's a bad ground...

Good thing you're practiced at this stuff. That trick/test is old as dirt and I completely forgot about it. Maybe because I'm getting as old as dirt

aa0ri · 03-30-2019, 06:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by flipper003

This is the third attempt to post this. I am logged in and as soon as I try to submit it as a new thread it says I am not logged in and I lose everything I have typed. When I went to start to start my Axis 25.1 I just got a click from the solenoid. All batteries are fully charged and the chassis battery is also new. I have had no prior problems with it starting and I had driven it a week ago for a
couple of hours. I took the old starter off and got a new one, which yielded the same result, just one clack, no spinning or any other noises. The horn is loud. lights are bright so I think the issue maybe power to the starter. I checked the #2 relay which is located in the fuse box on the driver's side front, under "hood"
and it is good. All wiring and contacts are clean with no corrosion anywhere.
I am hoping someone might be able to suggest some other check to fix this.
Thanks in advance - fingers crossed!

My new at the time Vegas 25.2 wouldn't start after I got home from the dealer. I checked fuses, they were OK, I checked power to the solenoid and it was OK. Ford towed the Vegas to a service facility and found that the contact in the fusebox under the hood has defective. Fuse box replaced It's worked 100 percent since. Wish I could say the same about the rest of the electrical circuits.
Good luck with your troubleshooting.

dianizon · 03-31-2019, 02:16 PM

We have a 2017 Chateau and had the same problem. We took to Chevy dealer that works on large vehicles in FL 3 months ago. The service rep. told us it is a known problem in the Chevy chassis with this model. They replaced the entire fuse box as it is known to have a short in it and causes starting problems intermittently. That has fixed us at this time.

Crash and Diane

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