2014 34e Hurricane - Electrical gremlins

[Dr Zeus]

Something tells me most of the following problems are linked. I've located 4 different fuse/breaker panels.
-Under the rear bed has a fuse panel and a 120v breaker panel
-Under the steering wheel has a Ford fuse panel
-Driver side engine compartment has an aftermarket panel
-Rear firewall just above the radiator has a Ford fuse panel

Here are the problems I'm having.
1. Dash/Windows driver & passenger fans are no longer working. They're controlled by the 3-way switches under the radio. Checked fans and they are not seized up.
2. Map light above driver/passenger not working. Note - I have the drop down bed above the front seats. 2 way switch under the radio. Also controlled locally at the light itself. Neither switch work anymore.
3. Generator start switch works to start the genset, but the switch itself no longer lights up indicated run-state. 3-way switch under radio.

Something tells me all 3x of the above are on the same circuit/fuse, but I checked over 100 fuses and not sure what to do at this point. A bit frustrating.

4th issue, is sometimes after a long drive without the generator running the House batteries have depleted; meaning the alternator may not be charging those batteries. I don't think this model has a BIRD, and I previously had to install a Trik-L-Start to keep the Ford/Chassis battery up while on shore power. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance

[Beau388]

Originally Posted by Dr Zeus

Something tells me most of the following problems are linked. I've located 4 different fuse/breaker panels.
-Under the rear bed has a fuse panel and a 120v breaker panel
-Under the steering wheel has a Ford fuse panel
-Driver side engine compartment has an aftermarket panel
-Rear firewall just above the radiator has a Ford fuse panel

Here are the problems I'm having.
1. Dash/Windows driver & passenger fans are no longer working. They're controlled by the 3-way switches under the radio. Checked fans and they are not seized up.
2. Map light above driver/passenger not working. Note - I have the drop down bed above the front seats. 2 way switch under the radio. Also controlled locally at the light itself. Neither switch work anymore.
3. Generator start switch works to start the genset, but the switch itself no longer lights up indicated run-state. 3-way switch under radio.

Something tells me all 3x of the above are on the same circuit/fuse, but I checked over 100 fuses and not sure what to do at this point. A bit frustrating.

4th issue, is sometimes after a long drive without the generator running the House batteries have depleted; meaning the alternator may not be charging those batteries. I don't think this model has a BIRD, and I previously had to install a Trik-L-Start to keep the Ford/Chassis battery up while on shore power. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance

All the items you mention are powered by the chassis battery. There is a multi-tap on the positive side of the chassis battery that runs to a 100 amp 12 volt re-settable circuit breaker located on the right frame rail. From that circuit breaker the power goes to the circuit board down by the drivers left foot. This is a Thor MC board that contains all the fuses and relays for the Thor accessories in the front cap. Sounds like that CB is tripped



As for the engine's alternator charging the house batteries, this is done through the BIRD. Usually the Trombetta control module for the BIRD is good but the continuous duty relay goes bad. On my coach my the BIRD is located on the front wall in the rear of the house battery compartment. the

[Dr Zeus]

Originally Posted by Beau388

All the items you mention are powered by the chassis battery. There is a multi-tap on the positive side of the chassis battery that runs to a 100 amp 12 volt re-settable circuit breaker located on the right frame rail. From that circuit breaker the power goes to the circuit board down by the drivers left foot. This is a Thor MC board that contains all the fuses and relays for the Thor accessories in the front cap. Sounds like that CB is tripped



As for the engine's alternator charging the house batteries, this is done through the BIRD. Usually the Trombetta control module for the BIRD is good but the continuous duty relay goes bad. On my coach my the BIRD is located on the front wall in the rear of the house battery compartment. the

I'll check, you say its a 100A breaker? Sounds serious. I've checked all the fuses and relays at drivers foot and none are blown. I'll check that panel for voltage though. If that CB popped then nothing has power there... but... the lights and such are working so IDK. I think that panel does a LOT and Id think more would not be working if the main tripped.

I really do not think this RV has a BIRD. I tried looking for it, and cannot locate one. I've been down this before which is why I bought a Trik-L-Start.

Do the house batteries charge through the 100A breaker? Maybe thats why it could have maybe tripped....

I'll check

Thanks

[javelin]

Well the 2014 Hurricane may still use the RV Custom BCC unit (black box for controlling battery connections and charging, mounted on Driver side engine bay front). Not sure if that is what you mean by after market fuse box on driver side engine in your comments? If you have the BCC then refer to my attached schematic which shows the Accessory relay on connector P5 which "may" control some of the loads you talk about (right side of schematic). This relay is mounted on the BCC circuit board, so if it has failed or has bad contacts it may be a tricky and costly repair (if the board needs replacing). You could try just burnishing the contacts of the relay, but removing the board from the BCC requires careful disconnection of all batteries and power from the coach for safety. Also if you have the BCC then the interconnect relay needs to close to connect the coach and chassis batteries (alternator charging) in order for the coach batteries to also be charged. The interconnect relay is controlled by the electronics on the BCC circuit board which senses voltage levels on battery strings and charges them accordingly.

[Dr Zeus]

Yes thats the box I have.

Thank you

[javelin]

Just a followup: I note that you said your map lights are also not working, so since you have the RV Custom BCC, I note from the schematic posted previously, that BCC connector P4 has a fuse for map lights and the loads on that connector are direct connected to the chassis battery through the chassis battery latching relay also inside the BCC. Do you still have steps working OK? If you have the BCC then you can check specific loads on the schematic with what is working and what is not to try to determine what the likely failure point(s) are......you may have more than just a fuse blown.Take great care going into the BCC since some major damage can be done if it is still connected to power or batteries.

[Dr Zeus]

Thank you, and yes; steps are working just fine.

[Mousemate]

I would take a look at some of your harnesses that run in the dash...
Thor didn't wrap them in any wire loom and I found some that where rubbed thru .... see pictures.... I had a issue that my leveling system would flash sometimes.... I fixing and rewrapping the wire and all is good now.
hope this helps

[javelin]

OK; if steps are working then the chassis latching relay is operated and is supplying 12vdc to the chassis battery load bus in the BCC schematic. Note that the schematic is dated so there may be loads assigned on the schematic that may have changed assignments by 2014. You will likely need to very carefully check fuses in the BCC to see if they are 12vdc powered and/or blown. A digital voltmeter is a great tool to have for this situation (and a 25 year old spine to contort into position for access into the BCC). No rings; no watches if you check fuses live.


Regarding not charging the coach batteries when driving (via alternator) and not charging chassis battery from converter (when on shore or gen), it is “likely” that the interconnect relay, or its contacts have failed to close properly......thereby not connecting coach and chassis battery strings to each other as required. (You mentioned that the converter does charge the coach batteries OK, so the 50 amp mini breaker shown on the left side of the BCC schematic (House Panel connection) and coach latching relay are likely OK.



If you go onto the RV Custom Products web page they provide the schematic and very good operation/testing documentation for this BCC.
https://rvcustomproducts.com/fw-2050

[Dr Zeus]

Tracing through that schematic, P4 map lights pin is not being used in the BCC for map lights. P4 connector is blank at pin 3. Only pin 5 is being used on the P4 connector, and that has power under it. I guess map lights are part of a different circuit. Also as I recall map lights used to work without the ignition.

P5 and the accessory relay is working. P5 connector must remain plugged in for the relay to throw (Pin 1 is relay gnd). Once activated, all fuses have 13v on them referencing vehicle's frame for ground. I also confirmed the fuses not only look fine but also pass continuity test at 0 ohms with my Fluke DVM, which I've owned for 30 years.

Still stumped.

[Dr Zeus]

Also P5 appears to be accurately labeled on the schematic as pulling P5 connector disables the mirrors and jacks.

[javelin]

Good work testing the BCC circuits....sounds like the fuses are good in there so perhaps Mousemate’s “wiring/connections issues” apply on this trouble? Do your dash cigar lighter power outlets work OK? They are typically wired from the Ford PD fuse panel, center firewall in engine bay. Not sure if Thor would use that same Ford fuse panel (maybe a spare position) for other dash loads like fans and map lights if not from the BCC? I would expect Thor would wire out the map lights and fans.....possibly on one larger fuse......have you tried contacting Thor tech support for information on what circuit they are actually fed from? The only other fuse panel that it would make sense being fed from is the Driver left foot area fuse panel, but it sounds like you have checked all those. Unfortunately I can’t help you much; hopefully another owner with the inside scoop will chime in. I hope you can resolve your charging problem as well. With any luck it won’t be the interconnect relay since it is buried under the BCC circuit board. There is a great video on Utube of someone taking apart the BCC components on a Hurricane, that may come in handy for you for this or any future issues. I hope you find the solution to both problems.

[Dr Zeus]

Thanks. I actually solved the house battery charging from alternator problem. I found the chassis battery terminal on the upper left side of the BCC had come loose 1/2" nut. After tightening it I've now got 14.x volts on the house batteries engine running. Thats a relief.

I was thinking I'd pull out the radio next so that I can get into the dashboard easier.

I'll call Thor next see if they have any ideas.

[Dr Zeus]

Problem solved. After talking to Thor, found connector C32 come undone just behind the controls. I put a zip tie around the connector to hold it together better. All fixed!

[javelin]

Glad you were able to fix both problems with some excellent trouble shooting work and a little help from Thor tech support. Thanks for letting the forum know what and where you found your issues. The repair price was right as a bonus for both troubles. Happy camping.