Thermostat Replacement

[Walt Johnston]

What is the model of the DIGITAL Hot Air thermostat. I am looking on Amazon and it is hard to figure out which to buy.
I assume single-phase, 12 volt. Can anyone be specific on the model. Amazon or anywhere is good for me.

Originally Posted by mcr1010

A couple of things to check. Is your switch on the T-stat in either cool or heat mode? Is it a digital or analog T-stat? If switch does not fix the problem, you can remove it off wall and check with a meter to see if you are getting power and also check to make sure it is wired correctly.

Do a search on the forum for wiring diagram as this has been discussed before about changing out old analog to digital which I would recommend if yours is an analog. Digital controls better.
I'm sure some others can offer suggestions also.
Good luck.

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Walt Johnston

What is the model of the DIGITAL Hot Air thermostat. I am looking on Amazon and it is hard to figure out which to buy.
I assume single-phase, 12 volt. Can anyone be specific on the model. Amazon or anywhere is good for me.

Well Walt, compatible with what? What do you currently have?
Coleman-Mach makes several digital thermostats that may fit your need. Honeywell also makes several digital thermostats with AA batteries that many people have adapted for RV use.

Have you checked out this recent thread about upgrading to digital thermostats?
https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...tat-35695.html

It also has links to other threads on the subject.

Hope this helps.

[OldWEB]

Originally Posted by Walt Johnston

What is the model of the DIGITAL Hot Air thermostat. I am looking on Amazon and it is hard to figure out which to buy.
I assume single-phase, 12 volt. Can anyone be specific on the model. Amazon or anywhere is good for me.

^^^^^ What was said up there^^^^^

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Petnut

I recently found out the thermostat isn't working. The battery is fine, brand new. There is power going into the fuse box. I've checked all of the fuses and they are fine. I don't know how to check the breakers so I turned them off and on and nothing changed. The battery cutoff is working. The battery lights, stove lights and fan work. The microwave isn't working but I'm not sure it is supposed to on battery. I have a 2002 Four Winds Dutchmen. Any ideas as to what to check next?

See post #30 in this thread:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...t-35695-2.html

it shows a step by step of the installation process for a new Thermostat. One thing to check is the connection of the thermostat wires to the house wiring. In my case some of the wire nuts literally fell off. Thor used wire nuts that were too large for the wires involved. I changed the wire nuts for lever lock connectors to be sure I got good connections for the new thermostat.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

See post #30 in this thread:

https://www.thorforums.com/forums/f8...t-35695-2.html

it shows a step by step of the installation process for a new Thermostat. One thing to check is the connection of the thermostat wires to the house wiring. In my case some of the wire nuts literally fell off. Thor used wire nuts that were too large for the wires involved. I changed the wire nuts for lever lock connectors to be sure I got good connections for the new thermostat.

This is the Thermostat I installed:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M104R9G...roduct_details

[SGilbert]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

This is the Thermostat I installed:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M104R9G...roduct_details

If that had the same footprint as the OEM Coleman analog unit, I would also, but I plan on this one in the spring. My Axis is in storage until then.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCRTL627...v_ov_lig_dp_it

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by SGilbert

If that had the same footprint as the OEM Coleman analog unit, I would also, but I plan on this one in the spring. My Axis is in storage until then.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CCRTL627...v_ov_lig_dp_it

That one connects up the same way as the old analog unit did. Be forewarned the wire nut connections on the old unit can be a little iffy. I had two of the nuts just fall off after I pulled the electrical tape from around the wire nuts. Also, there are two coach wires that connect to the blue "-12v" wire on the thermostat. One is a white #16 stranded wire the other is a blue #18 or #20 solid core bell wire from the furnace, I think. I used a t tap the connect that blue wire from the coach to the white wire from the coach. I then connected the connected the white wire form the coach to the blue thermostat wire.

I used these for the T-TAP connection.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...0?ie=UTF8&th=1

You should consider getting these connectors to replace the wire nuts that Thor likely used to hook the old Thermostat in.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K7GX9Z4...roduct_details

These connectors will work on any size wire from #28 - #12 and makes a much more secure connection that will not vibrate lose.

[Grumpy Grampa]

Micro Air, RV Thermostat

https://www.microair.net/pages/easyt...select-a-brand

[SGilbert]

Originally Posted by Grumpy Grampa

Micro Air, RV Thermostat

https://www.microair.net/pages/easyt...select-a-brand

I'm not crazy! Why would I want to pay $267.50 (likely plus shipping & tax!)

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by SGilbert

I'm not crazy! Why would I want to pay $267.50 (likely plus shipping & tax!)

Because he can, maybe?

[PreCambrian]

I used this to replace my thermostat for my Coleman (Airxcel) unit. Much more comfortable since you can actually set a specific temperature instead of guessing with the slide.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by PreCambrian

I used this to replace my thermostat for my Coleman (Airxcel) unit. Much more comfortable since you can actually set a specific temperature instead of guessing with the slide.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you use this one you will not need to keep a stock of AAA batteries on hand for when the batteries in the Honeywell unit run down. We both know that the batteries will fail when you are camped 50 miles from the nearest open store.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M104R9G...roduct_details

This unit runs on the 12V power form your coach and allows you to set a specific temperature. I like it because I can set a temperature below 60. I generally run it at about 45 when the RV is stored.

[PreCambrian]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

If you use this one you will not need to keep a stock of AAA batteries on hand for when the batteries in the Honeywell unit run down. We both know that the batteries will fail when you are camped 50 miles from the nearest open store.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M104R9G...roduct_details

This unit runs on the 12V power form your coach and allows you to set a specific temperature. I like it because I can set a temperature below 60. I generally run it at about 45 when the RV is stored.

That is true and if you have the three wires to your existing thermostat it is a better choice. My thermostat only had two wires to it and I did not feel like pulling a third wire to it.

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

Originally Posted by PreCambrian

That is true and if you have the three wires to your existing thermostat it is a better choice. My thermostat only had two wires to it and I did not feel like pulling a third wire to it.

Interesting, I have two thermostats, one for heat / AC and the other for AC only for th second AC unit. The heat cool has 6 wires leading to it, and the AC only had 5 wires.

If your thermostat looks like the one pictured below I think you have more than 2 wires.

[PreCambrian]

Originally Posted by Dan-sr@perra-us.net

Interesting, I have two thermostats, one for heat / AC and the other for AC only for th second AC unit. The heat cool has 6 wires leading to it, and the AC only had 5 wires.

If your thermostat looks like the one pictured below I think you have more than 2 wires.

The best way is just to pull off the existing thermostat and see what is there. I had two wires, the red and the white, red (which is 12V+) and white (which is the signal to the heater to run). In order to run the electronics in a new thermostat I either needed a third black wire (12V-) to allow the electronics to consume power from 12V+ to 12V-, or to have the battery operated unit which doesn't require 12V+ power to operate. Depending on the complexity of the system there are many other wires that may be necessary (such as air conditioning, two stage heating or cooling, etc.).

[Jimbo56]

I replaced the analog Coleman thermostat with this one. Took wires off one at a time. Direct replacement. 15 minutes