Thor Battery and Fridge problems

[HMD0205X]

I'm a newbie so maybe I'm doing something wrong. I've been camping on two occasions for app. 3 days each. I disconnected the house batteries on my 2015 Thor Hurricane 32N using the "use/store" switch in the unit and we ran electricity off the campground supply. We also played the radio at various times. When we left the coach wouldn't crank and we had to jump the unit. This occurred both times.

Also, when the unit has been parked for roughly two weeks the refrigerator will not run on propane. It runs for a couple of minutes, then something clicks at the front of the coach and the refrigerator shuts off. The propane is working as the stove lights. The refrigerator is clean and turning the propane and/or the refrigerator off and on doesn't help. The dealer has checked the house batteries and says they are fine.

Any suggestions on these issues? Thanks!!

[Daveht]

eV2 hit that right on the head. Leave the in use switch on even if you are plugged into a pedestal. Converter will change 110 volts to 12 VDC and charge batteries.

[Metalman]

I noticed that lights flicker when the use switch is off and the RV is plugged into shore power. I assumed that the filtering effects of the batteries was not taking place, and I also assumed that using 12-volt devices (lights, water pump, refrigerator, etc.) would put a strain on the converter without being connected to the batteries. Maybe someone can straighten me out about this situation.

[EA37TS]

There should be an isolator that prevents the chassis battery from being charged when connected to shore power. This is to prevent the chassis battery from being overcharged. The isolator does however allow the engine alternator to charge the house batteries after it comes up to speed. If the chassis battery does get drained due to some load such as the radio or DVD player, then you should be able to use the emergency start switch to crank the engine.

Whe3n disconnected from shore power place your switch in store mode and see if the radio powers on. If it does then it is connected to the chassis battery and is draining that battery.

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by dstankov

There should be an isolator that prevents the chassis battery from being charged when connected to shore power. This is to prevent the chassis battery from being overcharged. The isolator does however allow the engine alternator to charge the house batteries after it comes up to speed. If the chassis battery does get drained due to some load such as the radio or DVD player, then you should be able to use the emergency start switch to crank the engine.

Whe3n disconnected from shore power place your switch in store mode and see if the radio powers on. If it does then it is connected to the chassis battery and is draining that battery.

When I first got the RV, I monitored the chassis voltage with the shore power connected and at first it didn't show a charge. But after several minutes it began charging from the shore power. So there must be some kind of time-delay isolator in the circuit.

I just checked and with the RV connected to the shore power and in the store mode, the radio works (clock visible on screen), but when in the store mode and disconnected from the shore power, the clock is not on. So apparently the radio is on the house circuit.

[Kirby]

A note about alternator charging the house batteries. The isolator (AKA trombetto contactor) is activated in two ways. 1 by the emerg start switch. 2 by the little black box called "potted BIRD". However; both of these methods use the house batteries for power. It takes 8 volts to close the isolator. If the house batteries are less than 8 volts the alternator alone will never charge the house batteries.
This has been my experience 2015 Thor ace 29.3

[Metalman]

Originally Posted by Kirby

A note about alternator charging the house batteries. The isolator (AKA trombetto contactor) is activated in two ways. 1 by the emerg start switch. 2 by the little black box called "potted BIRD". However; both of these methods use the house batteries for power. It takes 8 volts to close the isolator. If the house batteries are less than 8 volts the alternator alone will never charge the house batteries.
This has been my experience 2015 Thor ace 29.3

So in an emergency while out on the road or camping in the boonies, I suppose running a + jumper from the engine battery to the house battery(s)to get the isolator to open.

[Kirby]

Yes, exactly, with engine running so as not to run down the chassi battery.

[EA37TS]

Question: Has anyone tried using a 12Volt jump starter to see if it supplies enough power to crank the generator when the house batteries are dead?

I have one of these that I carry but have never had to use.

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Decker-P...+power+station

[JamieGeek]

I keep something similar to that in my car (yeah long story but the 12V battery in my EV is prone to dying!).

I haven't attempted to jump the coach battery with it to start the genny--hmm perhaps I'll do that today LOL.

[Metalman]

Perhaps if it doesn't work by trying to jump a dead or low coach/chassis battery, you could jump it with the power station connected to the generator starter solenoid.

[JamieGeek]

Stopped by the camper on my way home today so I tried this:

• Closed the knife switch on the Chassis battery
• Connected the Neg cable on the coach battery
• Coach battery was showing only 1 LED on the monitor panel (instead of 4) so was very low charge
• Connected up my portable car starter battery to the coach battery
• Giving it a few seconds, checked the battery gauge--same thing 1 LED
• Attempted to start the generator..it just barely turned over the genny
• Finally after priming the genny it started
• Disconnected the portable starter

It did work, but it was struggling (most likely because my portable start wasn't fully charged either).
After the genny was running I gave the V-10 a try: Of course it cranked right over and started right up (haven't had a single problem with the chassis battery since I put the knife switch in).

[Metalman]

JamiGeek,
I think I missed something. Can you explain the knife switch? Where you mounted it and why you are using it. If you put your portable starter on the starter side of the solenoid I think the generator would have started immediately. But I don't know how accessible the solenoid is.

[JamieGeek]

Originally Posted by Metalman

I think I missed something. Can you explain the knife switch? Where you mounted it and why you are using it. If you put your portable starter on the starter side of the solenoid I think the generator would have started immediately. But I don't know how accessible the solenoid is.

Knife switch for the Chassis battery:
Battery Disconnect Knife Switch

I don't know where the generator starter solenoid is but given how buried the generator is I'm sure it isn't easy to get to. On the other hand, its really easy to simply lift the step and connect + and - to the battery there. I was only really testing to see if the portable starter would work as Dave had asked. Our unit has the emergency start jumper button that shorts the coach and chassis batteries together--since the knife switch keeps the chassis battery good and charged up I really shouldn't have any issues.

[Metalman]

OK, I get it. I use what is or was called a "Battery Buddy" in our old custom van because within a few days it would drain the battery so low it wouldn't start. This device monitors the loss of battery energy and at a predetermined point it will open the circuit between the battery and battery cable. Mine requires pressing a button on the Battery Buddy to close the circuit, but newer models will open the circuit when the ignition switch is activated.

I used this type of battery switch on my tractor, for the same reason. I like this type because there is less surface are to worry about grounding out in the vehicle.
Battery Disconnect Switch


I agree about accessing the solenoid on the generator.

[Oneilkeys]

Originally Posted by Metalman

When I first got the RV, I monitored the chassis voltage with the shore power connected and at first it didn't show a charge. But after several minutes it began charging from the shore power. So there must be some kind of time-delay isolator in the circuit.

I just checked and with the RV connected to the shore power and in the store mode, the radio works (clock visible on screen), but when in the store mode and disconnected from the shore power, the clock is not on. So apparently the radio is on the house circuit.

In the Vegas 24.1 the radio is on the house circuit. I Installed a radio kill switch for dry camping and RV storage and the radio kill switch makes a big difference. I also installed a true "kill Switch" for the house bartteries which completely disengages them from the coach. I just returned from. 3 month trip overseas and still had 12.4 v on the house batteries.

[HMD0205X]

Originally Posted by EV2

Just my thoughts, but if you are using the store switch in off position while plugged in, you are preventing the converter from charging your coach batteries and there are still items that may continue to draw from your battery. Also, even when on lp the refrigerator requires a small draw on 12v to the control panel. I added a small gel cell to my refrigerator circuit to supply this 12v power when my store switch drops power to the refrig so that I can precool without everything drawing on the batteries. I installed a diode inline to prevent the gel cell from back feeding to the other items on the circuit when the store switch has disconnected them from the battery supply.
Also, you may find that your radio is on the chassis batteries.

Thanks for this info. Can you describe how you added the gel cell and diode?


Much appreciated!

[Oneilkeys]

Originally Posted by HMD0205X

Thanks for this info. Can you describe how you added the gel cell and diode?


Much appreciated!

I knew that the fridge needed 12v power to operate, but when I plugged my 2016 Axis into shore power, turned on the fridge and turned the use/store to store, the lights on the outside of the fridge stayed on and the fridge cooled down overnight indicating to me that the fridge is hooked directly to the house batteries bypassing the use/store switch.