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Old 02-04-2022, 06:21 AM   #1
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Torque Multiplier

Anyone have suggestions of a good torque multiplier? I'm not looking for one that goes into the thousands foot pounds but one suitable for getting off and on the 22.5 wheels. 450 ft pound torque. I don't plan to change the tires but being able to break them loose might be important. Amazon has several that range in price from $70 and up. Brands, likely chinese, that I've never heard of.

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Old 02-04-2022, 06:23 AM   #2
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As often as you will likely use it, I don't see why the 'cheap Chinese' won't work fine for you.
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Old 02-04-2022, 02:49 PM   #3
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As often as you will likely use it, I don't see why the 'cheap Chinese' won't work fine for you.
I agree but was wondering if one chinese crap was better/worse than another. I've never used one so was curious about torquing a lug using one. I looked the topic up and lots of videos for removing, but nothing specific about installing except alluding to approximating torque and using scribe marks to get it back close. My 3/4 torque wrench goes to 300 and don't see the value in a 1" that goes above 450.
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Old 02-04-2022, 11:50 PM   #4
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I pretty feisty, but manhandling a 19.5 wheel and tire, on and off the axle is just about beyond me. I can't imagine dealing with a 22.5. Have you actually tried it? It'd be pretty pointless to get the stuff to do it, and find you you can't.
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Old 02-05-2022, 02:54 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by chunker21 View Post

......cut.....

450 ft pound torque.

.....cut......

Like multiply 150 pounds X 3 feet?


Just kidding.
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Old 02-05-2022, 03:46 AM   #6
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Like multiply 150 pounds X 3 feet?


Just kidding.
Well I weigh 190 so I could get a cheater bar and go out 2.4'. Or use my 300# torque wrench and add a bit.
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Old 02-05-2022, 10:07 AM   #7
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Well I weigh 190 so I could get a cheater bar and go out 2.4'. Or use my 300# torque wrench and add a bit.
I use black iron pipes and a 3 to 1 multiplier. The attached photo is tightening. To remove a nut the pipe inserted into the multiplier would be against the floor in the opposite direction. Once the nuts are reasonably tight set the torque wrench to 150 foot pounds and tighten until you reach 450 foot pounds. I purchased a tire dolly to move the wheels around but it turned out I did not need it. Just adjust the jack so the tire is just off the floor and work the wheel off. You can roll it around. When it is time to go back on move the wheel into position and use a pry bar under the tire to lift it onto the lugs. I did a brake job by myself on our 40 foot diesel pusher both front and back using the technique.
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Old 02-05-2022, 12:23 PM   #8
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Well I weigh 190 so I could get a cheater bar and go out 2.4'. Or use my 300# torque wrench and add a bit.

Used that technique for real once to help mechanics get over 2,000 pound-feet of torque. Must have worked fine or I would have heard otherwise.

Talking about large tires and wheels, gets interesting when they are taller than you and weigh close to 1,000 pounds. Like Bob suggested, best to use your head than back. Also helps to be young and have equipment to assist with lifting.
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Old 02-05-2022, 01:21 PM   #9
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Just my honest opinion here:

And 450 ft/lbs is pretty tight.

I'm confident that if it were reasonably close it would be fine.
The owner's manual likely tells you to re-check torques after traveling "x" amount of miles anyway. Do you?

Me: I would get a two-foot long piece of pipe to fit my breaker bar, or ratchet set up (providing it has a handle length of 2 feet), make sure it is slipped on at least 6 inches, then put my weight on it until it won't turn tightened any more, (take steps in tightening, snug up first round, get tighter second round, then heave-ho last go around on the cross pattern, checking again 6 miles down the road not a bad idea).

Use a cross pattern and check final tightness', do it twice to be sure.
This is how I would do it, being in the mechanical field for 40+ years, you get the feel for torque values.

Look at the tire shops, are they putting a torque multiplier on for every bolt or nut?

Doing it yourself; do what you feel comfortable with. I would forgo the cost of a multiplier, but that's me.
Like I said, my opinion & not a suggestion, consideration maybe, have fun and have a nice day.

edit:
I was taught to never trust the tightness value of torque using an impact gun.

2nd edit:
I like Bob Nodine's way, it looks professional.
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Old 02-05-2022, 01:32 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by 10scDust View Post

.....cut....

Look at the tire shops, are they putting a torque multiplier on for every bolt?

.....cut....
edit:
I was taught to never trust the tightness value of torque using an impact gun.

Couldnít agree more. Iíve had wheels put on cars and light trucks with impact wrench that I could barely get off.
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Old 02-05-2022, 02:26 PM   #11
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Originally Posted by Bob Nodine View Post
I use black iron pipes and a 3 to 1 multiplier. The attached photo is tightening. To remove a nut the pipe inserted into the multiplier would be against the floor in the opposite direction. Once the nuts are reasonably tight set the torque wrench to 150 foot pounds and tighten until you reach 450 foot pounds. I purchased a tire dolly to move the wheels around but it turned out I did not need it. Just adjust the jack so the tire is just off the floor and work the wheel off. You can roll it around. When it is time to go back on move the wheel into position and use a pry bar under the tire to lift it onto the lugs. I did a brake job by myself on our 40 foot diesel pusher both front and back using the technique.
Bob thanks and that's a good technique. To save me a bunch of "search time" where did you get the 3-1 multiplier. Installing a 22.5 is not much different from a 19.5, just bigger and heavier obviously, and I used the "roll into position and a pry bar underneath" method to install those. I did a similar method with my water filled tractor tire, Massey 240. They are heavy.
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Old 02-06-2022, 11:07 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by chunker21 View Post
Bob thanks and that's a good technique. To save me a bunch of "search time" where did you get the 3-1 multiplier. Installing a 22.5 is not much different from a 19.5, just bigger and heavier obviously, and I used the "roll into position and a pry bar underneath" method to install those. I did a similar method with my water filled tractor tire, Massey 240. They are heavy.
It has been about seven years since I purchased the multiplier but if memory serves me I believe it was at Northern Tools.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...3947_200623947
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Old 02-06-2022, 12:01 PM   #13
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It has been about seven years since I purchased the multiplier but if memory serves me I believe it was at Northern Tools.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...3947_200623947
Thanks I looked it up but am going to hold off for now. Besides it's backordered indefinitely. What I did to the 2 lugs that were not torqued to the 450 was put my breaker bar and extension and used a lot of force, then put on the 3/4 torque wrench set at 300#. It immediately clicked so that one lug is a minimum of 300 and I don't think it's coming off.
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Old 02-09-2022, 12:01 AM   #14
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I have posted this before. There are different brands and prices.

https://www.mfrexpress.com/products/...%20%7C%20%2460
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Old 02-09-2022, 12:30 AM   #15
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I pretty feisty, but manhandling a 19.5 wheel and tire, on and off the axle is just about beyond me. I can't imagine dealing with a 22.5. Have you actually tried it? It'd be pretty pointless to get the stuff to do it, and find you you can't.
I have a relative that when you open his tool box there are two items: check book and a pen. Not saying that is a good thing but I have a list of things I will leave to others. Messing with the wheels is on that list.
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Old 02-09-2022, 11:18 PM   #16
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Harbor freight Unit worked fine - Cheap and useful
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