Unwinterizing

[bikegolfgirl]

Being a new RVer can I un-winterize my unit myself or should I bring it to the dealer?

[pstandiford]

You should be able to do it yourself. My DW calls it summerizing

[West]

It's very quick and easy. You'd spend more time driving to the shop than you would doing it your self. A fresh oil change on the generator and coach to start the season, sanitize the fresh water tank, lines and water heater then flush with some fresh water.

[09 Challenger]

Originally Posted by West

It's very quick and easy. You'd spend more time driving to the shop than you would doing it your self. A fresh oil change on the generator and coach to start the season, sanitize the fresh water tank, lines and water heater then flush with some fresh water.

And return hot water bypass to normal operation and reinstall h/W heater plug if it was removed

[Yosemitebob]

It is by far much cheaper to do it yourself ($275 at my dealer, oil changes, full check out, santizing and it always cost a little more for one reason or another) but what I do miss is going through the store while they are doing this , of course then you don't get out of there for less than $300 to $500 .

[FW28z]

I change oil in the engine and genny during winter storage, so I do not change it again in the spring. It is very important to change the oil in the fall, but spring oil changes are optional in my view.

I have the Ford dealer do the oil change on the engine... $35.

I change the oil on the genny myself as it is a fairly easy thing to do.

Otherwise, de-winterizing is primarily flushing the water system. Put the drain plug back into the water heater, turn the valves back to summer, then flush the entire system with plenty of fresh water.

Last year, I bought an anti-freeze refractometer to see when the pink antifreeze was completely evacuated. I found pretty much that when the water runs clear, the antifreeze is at 0%.

So flush the system until the water runs clear, or there is no antifreeze smell left - whichever occurs last. Run each spigot one at a time, cold water, then hot water until they run clear. Go through each spigot until you have done them all, and don't forget the toilet flush.

I start with the furthest spigot and work to the closest one, but either way will work.

I usually put a bit of bleach in the water for the flush.

Other tasks are to check the water levels in the house batteries (which you should periodically do anyway, so it's not strictly a de-winterization task), removal of the mouse repellent and moisture inhibitors (Damp-Rid), inspection of the various seals and gaskets around windows, doors, and storage compartments, once-over inspection and cleaning of the roof, lubricating the slide-out, hydraulic leveler shafts (dry teflon lubercant), door, etc., check tire-pressure, wash/wax, and so on. Ops check everything.

No matter how much a dealer charges, they won't take time or the care to do everything as well as you do, so make this an opportunity to learn how to do it. Nothing is really that difficult to do. The few things that might (such as engine oil change) its easy to have a dealer do that.

[bikegolfgirl]

Thank you so much for the instructions, very helpful. I am going to try and do it on my own.

[West]

FW28z I'm curious to your reasoning that changing the oil in the fall is better than the start of the season (spring)? I always change the oil on mine in spring. My thought was that water will accumulate in the oil over the winter. The condensation that accumulates in the pan threw the vent would then sink below the oil and be trapped since its heavier than the oil.

[FW28z]

Originally Posted by West

FW28z I'm curious to your reasoning that changing the oil in the fall is better than the start of the season (spring)? I always change the oil on mine in spring. My thought was that water will accumulate in the oil over the winter. The condensation that accumulates in the pan threw the vent would then sink below the oil and be trapped since its heavier than the oil.

A byproduct of combustion is sulfuric acid. When left in storage for long periods of time, the sulfuric acid can separate from the oil (i.e. no longer in suspension), and damage internal components.

In the many years I owned boats and now a motorhome, I have never had any issue with water accumulating in the oil over the winter months - unless there is some mechanical issue.

The general recommendation when I owned a boat was to change oil prior to storage to get the sulfuric acid out of the engine. Some boaters I know also change oil in the spring, but I never did in the 20+ years I owned a boat.

Can't imagine that motorhomes would be any different, so in my view, if you are storing your RV for more than a month or two, changing oil in the fall is mandatory; changing it again in the spring is optional.

[JamieGeek]

FW28z: Do you know how long it takes for the combustion products to separate?

I ask because a wrinkle in that is that if you run the engine while in storage occasionally--how often would running the engine to operational temp prevent separation?

[West]

Interesting info. Thanks for the reply FW28z

[FW28z]

Good question Jamie. Not sure really. But it's one reason why there is a manufacturer recommended time limit as well as mileage limit on oil changes i.e. 3,500mi or 3 months.

That many vehicles now extend that to 6 months, it might be that the oil is better, or newer engines have enhanced protection (plating etc). I have no idea which; it's just a guess.

When I owned boats, we could not periodically run the engine in storage for obvious reasons.