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Old 07-30-2017, 06:05 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by Recalculating View Post
Do you have a close up picture of what the solenoid looks like Please ?
Sorry it took so long, kind of busy this week. BTW, it is a 5 amp fuse, not 5.5 as I stated earlier. Memory sucks.


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Old 08-01-2017, 04:13 AM   #42
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[QUOTE=jb1911;78873]The one associated with the switch. It's inside the coach near the main service panel.[/QUO



Thanks I will look for it.
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Old 08-04-2017, 12:58 AM   #43
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Sorry it took so long, kind of busy this week. BTW, it is a 5 amp fuse, not 5.5 as I stated earlier. Memory sucks.

I finally found that stupid fuse. My solenoid was square but the fuse was still 5 amp. sadly the fuse was good and I am still having the same problem. I did find a 50 amp fuse under the sink cabinet while looking for a way to get to the little fuse. Any Idea what this is ?
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:08 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Recalculating View Post
I finally found that stupid fuse. My solenoid was square but the fuse was still 5 amp. sadly the fuse was good and I am still having the same problem. I did find a 50 amp fuse under the sink cabinet while looking for a way to get to the little fuse. Any Idea what this is ?
It's under the sink? Do you also have one in the battery box under the steps?
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:09 AM   #45
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It is the fuse for the charger circuit to the house batteries. The circuit breakers (100 amp or greater) in the house battery compartment are for the 12 volt fuse panel and for the inverter 12 volt circuit. There is another 100 amp breaker on the right frame rail next to the chassis battery. It supplies power the fuse and relay panel down by the drivers left foot.
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:21 AM   #46
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It is the fuse for the charger circuit to the house batteries. The circuit breakers (100 amp or greater) in the house battery compartment are for the 12 volt fuse panel and for the inverter 12 volt circuit. There is another 100 amp breaker on the right frame rail next to the chassis battery. It supplies power the fuse and relay panel down by the drivers left foot.

Thanks.
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Old 08-04-2017, 01:22 AM   #47
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It's under the sink? Do you also have one in the battery box under the steps?

Yes I have one there as well. I guess I will have to take it in grrrrrr
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Old 08-04-2017, 10:33 PM   #48
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I bypassed the solinoid on mine. The switch only triggers the solinoid, off or on. It is primarily for a dealership to kill the power while on the lots. A manual marine switch (non sparking) 50 amp and your problems will be gone forever.
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Old 08-04-2017, 11:49 PM   #49
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ghof. Would this bypassing mean that I could then start the generator ?
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Old 08-05-2017, 10:22 PM   #50
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I bypassed the solinoid on mine. The switch only triggers the solinoid, off or on. It is primarily for a dealership to kill the power while on the lots. A manual marine switch (non sparking) 50 amp and your problems will be gone forever.
Do you know where the solenoid is on the 2015 axis ? I cannot seem to find anything that looks like that. I have found what the 5 amp fuse hooks to but when I jump it it kills power and I have to wait for my surge to kick back in.
I found this on the firewall and it kinda looks like it but it has a 15amp fuse
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Old 08-06-2017, 11:56 PM   #51
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First off. Thank You to everyone trying to help me with this issue.
I found the problem. When I replaced the 2 house batteries with AGM batteries I got one of the wires mixed up. They all had red shrink tube on the end but I also fixed that with some black tape. Thankfully everything works perfectly now
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Old 08-08-2017, 09:38 PM   #52
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I bypassed the solinoid on mine. The switch only triggers the solinoid, off or on. It is primarily for a dealership to kill the power while on the lots. A manual marine switch (non sparking) 50 amp and your problems will be gone forever.
I am going to do the same on both the starting batt under the hood and the two camper batt. that way when I disconnect the batt's THEY are disconnected. and I will put my small trickler batt charger on them both.
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Old 08-09-2017, 12:24 AM   #53
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I installed this Perko battery switch like we use on our boats. I can pick battery one, two, both or off. I normally switch them now and then to keep each one charged. Can also put it on both and charge at the same time.
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Old 08-09-2017, 12:30 AM   #54
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I also made a short jumper cable I can attach directly to the BCC lugs and connect the house and chassis battery or house and panel or chassis and panel in case the BCC takes a dump.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:18 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by ghof View Post
I bypassed the solinoid on mine. The switch only triggers the solinoid, off or on. It is primarily for a dealership to kill the power while on the lots. A manual marine switch (non sparking) 50 amp and your problems will be gone forever.
Could you post a picture of the switch and wiring? Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2018, 08:50 PM   #56
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We had the solenoid replaced about a year ago and it worked fine until last week. Instead of just taking it in again to have another one installed, is there a better quality solenoid that I can replace it with?
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Old 07-19-2018, 11:17 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by Recalculating View Post
First off. Thank You to everyone trying to help me with this issue.
I found the problem. When I replaced the 2 house batteries with AGM batteries I got one of the wires mixed up. They all had red shrink tube on the end but I also fixed that with some black tape. Thankfully everything works perfectly now
Yeah, I ran accross that too. Peal back the black covering on all the battery cables and you will find Red or Black colors inside. Then get a small pack of red / green / white / black / yellow tape and tape the ends of the covers. I used the Red (positive) and Green (negative) myself cause the black color is far too common and in this area, is OK. PITA but it works now.
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Old 08-26-2018, 02:00 AM   #58
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Same issue ... Store switch seems to make no difference

New to me Thor Axis , had to replace the house batteries. Now the store switch doesnít seem to disconnect batteries. Tried the button, yellow flag thing mentioned above, lights and radio still work. Time to call my RV dealer, Iím afraid.
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Old 08-26-2018, 04:07 AM   #59
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Not true. When plugged into shore power, the Use/Store must be in the Use position or the house batteries will not be charged. It seems like the switch doesn't work because your house lights will work with the switch in the store position, but the batteries will not charge.
I discovered this to be true after ALL bats died 2 times. I posted here and several people told me I must have the store / use switch in the use position.
I've not had the battery fail again. House or start.
Thanks.
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Old 08-26-2018, 01:11 PM   #60
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New to me Thor Axis , had to replace the house batteries. Now the store switch doesn’t seem to disconnect batteries. Tried the button, yellow flag thing mentioned above, lights and radio still work. Time to call my RV dealer, I’m afraid.
There are two wires into the radio - one from the coach and one from the chassis battery. So when the use/store is in store, the radio may still light up. However, the backup camera will not work when you turn on the engine and put it in reverse. Also some lights will work when you are plugged in or on generator, even with the Use/store in store. If your backup camera does not work when your use/store is in store but does work when it is in use, then your use/store is working. Also, and most importantly, your chassis batteries will not charge in the store mode, but will in the use mode. Another way to check.
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