Four circuit boards later and hot water heater still won’t light

ieris2 · 08-12-2019, 02:30 AM

Hello all,

I have an Atwood water heater (G6A-8E) in my 2018 THOR Freedom Elite motorhome. From day 1 it will not stay lit and then eventually just stops lighting. Initially when I flip the LP gas switch it will cycle through the three attempts to light but, now it’s not even doing that. I’ve taken it in three times and they replace the circuit board. However, a week later they just go out again. The strangest thing is a humming/whining noise happens in the back part of the RV near my bed right before it goes out. The tank and circuit board are on the side of the RV-nowhere near the sound. I’m looking to attach a video for an audio sample. I’m at my wits end finding a center who will look further into it other than just sticking another circuit board on so I’m hoping someone on here has a better clue to what is going on. Thank you all!

javelin · 08-12-2019, 10:55 AM

I don't know your coach but I would track down the strange sound and determine where or what is making the sound. Just a WAG, but I wonder if it is coming from your propane tank regulator or perhaps a bad gas valve or T somewhere along the gas line feed to your water heater. I you are getting these boards replaced under warranty by the Dealer ask them to check the gas pressure at the water heater gas valve.....or perhaps a good mobile tech might be worth the cost for a second (perhaps more experienced opinion).

javelin · 08-12-2019, 11:30 AM

I forgot to welcome you to the forum also with post #1. Since I am not sure about your RV experience.....also make sure your propane main tank shut off valve is open.....of course experienced campers can forget to do that as well.

ieris2 · 08-12-2019, 12:01 PM

Thank you for the welcome and info. which was very helpful. I’m going to check into those and dig around under the bed compartment to hunt down the sound. This is my first RV and it’s a whole new world, but I’m learning a lot. Thankful to find this forum!

javelin · 08-12-2019, 02:38 PM

Hi again. If it is your propane regulator causing the whining noise (gas trying to get through the regulator perhaps) it probably would be mounted very close to your main propane tank. You said the noise (I assume this noise is new?) was near the bedroom so look outside in the basement access doors of your coach (near the bedroom location) to see if your propane tank and regulator are in one of them and then listen for the noise there. Also, not to be insulting, but make sure your propane tank has propane and the valve is open a turn or so.

You also should not be able to smell any propane in the cubby with the tank and regulator.....if you do check for any leaks.....could also be a bad propane regulator. They are not expensive to replace if that is the problem. It would likely also affect other gas appliances in your coach too......furnace would be a likely candidate or propane fridge with random failures if the regulator is failing. Others may have better suggestions.

abjbrtd · 08-12-2019, 09:10 PM

Are you paying for these circuit boards?

Do your other propane appliance work? Have you used the furnace?

A good test of the "circuit board theory" is to unplug the white electric connector plugged into the board, leave it off a few minutes, reconnect and retest the heater (take a picture of the connector before you unplug it).
If the heater works for a week then the dealers "circuit board theory" has failed.

ieris2 · 08-13-2019, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by javelin

Hi again. If it is your propane regulator causing the whining noise (gas trying to get through the regulator perhaps) it probably would be mounted very close to your main propane tank. You said the noise (I assume this noise is new?) was near the bedroom so look outside in the basement access doors of your coach (near the bedroom location) to see if your propane tank and regulator are in one of them and then listen for the noise there. Also, not to be insulting, but make sure your propane tank has propane and the valve is open a turn or so.

You also should not be able to smell any propane in the cubby with the tank and regulator.....if you do check for any leaks.....could also be a bad propane regulator. They are not expensive to replace if that is the problem. It would likely also affect other gas appliances in your coach too......furnace would be a likely candidate or propane fridge with random failures if the regulator is failing. Others may have better suggestions.

Thank you again, I’m really appreciating this input. The propane tank cubby is at the front of the coach, but the sound is coming from the back. The sound only occurs a few days before it goes out and stops once it completely stops working. It’s more of an electronic whining/beeping-I wish I could download the audio. I’ve checked under the bed and under the RV, but it’s coming from inside the wall.

I DO sometimes catch a little whiff of propane, but maybe that’s normal? The other propane appliances are fine and the valve to the main tank is open-made that mistake before!

Thank you again so much’

ieris2 · 08-13-2019, 12:52 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

Are you paying for these circuit boards?

Do your other propane appliance work? Have you used the furnace?

A good test of the "circuit board theory" is to unplug the white electric connector plugged into the board, leave it off a few minutes, reconnect and retest the heater (take a picture of the connector before you unplug it).
If the heater works for a week then the dealers "circuit board theory" has failed.

I’m in shock right now and don’t know if it’s a fluke or what, but unplugging the white connector and plugging it back in worked! Did I just reset it? Thank you so much!!!

The other propane appliances are working fine. Luckily warranty is covering the boards, but I have to keep bringing the unit in which is a 2-month process each time and I would actually like to use my RV. I’ve heard several times that Atwood got a bad batch of boards, but four in a row!?

abjbrtd · 08-13-2019, 03:59 AM

Progress

Here's a youtube with some good info about what you've done.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VXq6NEokQ_A

FYI multimeters are $15.00 at walmart, amazon.

A couple of things to do.
If you have a meter could you check your house battery voltage. The video mentions 10volts which is a dead battery!
Before your next warranty visit you might want to put your initials in perminate marker on the circuit board

ieris2 · 08-13-2019, 05:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by abjbrtd

Progress

Here's a youtube with some good info about what you've done.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=VXq6NEokQ_A

FYI multimeters are $15.00 at walmart, amazon.

A couple of things to do.
If you have a meter could you check your house battery voltage. The video mentions 10volts which is a dead battery!
Before your next warranty visit you might want to put your initials in perminate marker on the circuit board

Great video-the first you-tube video I’ve seen that is actually clear and helpful. I wish I would’ve found this forum a year ago!

I’m still not understanding how unplugging it worked unless it was just a way to reset it?

I was also wondering about the voltage, but it goes out when on AC current too. I’ve just put a multi-meter on my wish list, it seems like it’s a must-have. I never dreamed the things I would learn owning an RV!

Again, thank you so much for your help and insights!

abjbrtd · 08-14-2019, 12:45 PM

Thanks

Under certain (yours) conditions taking power off of a circuit board will reset it.
That's why I suggest putting your initials on the board before you take it in.

Here are a couple of places if you want to replace your board.
You'll need the part # for your board.
https://www.dinosaurelectronics.com/UIB_Chart.htm
Or
https://www.amazon.com/Dometic-Atwoo...s%2C456&sr=8-7

Tom N3EQF · 08-14-2019, 07:21 PM

Good point about unplugging and replugging the connector on the board - also worth taking a close look at the condition of the pins and sockets while it's unplugged. Sometimes you can have corrosion or dirt on the connections, and the action of plugging it in can "clean up" the connection enough to get it working. Can be worthwhile in that case to use a little contact cleaner on the pins.

10scDust · 08-14-2019, 11:32 PM

Put some de-oxidizer grease on your wish list too, (local hardware store, lowes, etc).
Tube sort of like toothpaste tube.
Then, whenever you go checking any electrical plug ins, put a little bit on the connection.
AKA di-electric grease.
I even use it at the battery connections.
The enemy is the oxygen in the air

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