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Old 08-21-2017, 03:05 PM   #21
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Update! I have finally retired and am now back in Texas!
Congrats Huck! Let us know which coach you end up choosing. I'm following this thread closely, plan to tow a Wrangler myself soon.
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Old 08-22-2017, 03:53 AM   #22
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Thanks! I guess I will wait until I get the RV to see how much I need to raise it. Greg84, how much lift do you have that requires a ten inch hitch riser?
I did get my Mopar wire harness installed today. The hardest part was getting the grommets through the 1 1/8" hole it said I needed to drill in the firewall. I ended up ripping the grommet trying to get it through Now I'm trying to install the invisibrake, and it's being a huge pain in the ass... The only video I can find of it getting installed is on a two door 2013 with an automatic transmission, and I have a four door 2012 with a manual transmission. There's a HUGE difference between the automatic and manual, and there's no freakin room to work around the pedals! Also I'm wondering if I can put the main control box under the passenger side back seat, because I have lock boxes under my front seats that I'd like to keep there. Finally since I have the Mopar harness how should I wire my invisibrake?
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Old 08-22-2017, 04:25 AM   #23
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Combination of things conspire to require a 10" riser for my towbar. My hitch on the MH is only about 10-12" off the deck. I use the d-rings mount points on my front bumper to attach the tow bar not the baseplate that most use. My d-rings are bolted directly to my frame through the bumper. And I've got a 2.5" lift on 35s.

Blue Ox was the only drop hitch I felt comfortable with that had a 10" riser.
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Old 08-22-2017, 12:55 PM   #24
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...
I did get my Mopar wire harness installed today.
...
Now I'm trying to install the invisibrake, and it's being a huge pain in the ass... The only video I can find of it getting installed is on a two door 2013 with an automatic transmission, and I have a four door 2012 with a manual transmission. There's a HUGE difference between the automatic and manual, and there's no freakin room to work around the pedals! Also I'm wondering if I can put the main control box under the passenger side back seat, because I have lock boxes under my front seats that I'd like to keep there. Finally since I have the Mopar harness how should I wire my invisibrake?
Can't help with room around the pedals...

But since you have the Mopar harness - you already have 12v from the coach in the passenger compartment... You do need a direct line to the battery for the breakaway and charging.
Make sure you have both + and ground from the toad - if you have a disconnect in the picture - to allow charging and breakaway.

Should be able to put the control box anyplace within the cable length... Mine is under drivers seat, but doesn't have to be there.
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Old 09-11-2017, 02:25 AM   #25
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Would like to get some clarification on whether to have the manual transmission in gear while flat towing a Jeep Wrangler. I have an 07 JK 6 speed and I've heard that it needs to be in gear and some others saying they tow in neutral. Other than having the transfer case in neutral, the manual is not specific about whether to have in gear. Thanks
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Old 09-11-2017, 10:13 AM   #26
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Neutral for the Trans and the case
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Old 09-11-2017, 10:47 AM   #27
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Thanks fhenn
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Old 09-11-2017, 01:21 PM   #28
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On my 2012 JKU the I have a manual transmission, and the owners manual says leave the transmission in gear and the transfer case in neutral. I have read that same thing from several sources for different year models of JK's.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:12 PM   #29
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I finally got my rig and got my jeep all hooked up! I got a 2017 Challenger 37LX. I had to get a 10" drop insert to get it level with the jeep. I went with the Mopar wire harness which is super easy to use and not bad to install. I have the invisabrake, but haven't wired it in yet (I was waiting on my rig, so I know which wires to tap into). I am using the D ring mounts to attach my blue ox towbar. I'm going to get some safety chain hooks welded on my bumper so I can hook my safety chains on easily.
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Old 09-12-2017, 07:57 PM   #30
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Would like to get some clarification on whether to have the manual transmission in gear while flat towing a Jeep Wrangler. I have an 07 JK 6 speed and I've heard that it needs to be in gear and some others saying they tow in neutral. Other than having the transfer case in neutral, the manual is not specific about whether to have in gear. Thanks
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Neutral for the Trans and the case
That is not correct for a 2007 with a manual 6 speed. The transfer case must be in neutral and the transmission must be in 6th gear. The transmission needs to be in 6th gear to operate the oil pump or you will damage the transmission.

Checking some other sites they all state the manual transmission must be in gear, not only 6th gear.

But I've towed my '07 over 15k miles this way and no issues. I'd copy a page from my owners manual and post it, but it's currently in another state.
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Old 09-12-2017, 08:36 PM   #31
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That is not correct for a 2007 with a manual 6 speed. The transfer case must be in neutral and the transmission must be in 6th gear. The transmission needs to be in 6th gear to operate the oil pump or you will damage the transmission.

Checking some other sites they all state the manual transmission must be in gear, not only 6th gear.

But I've towed my '07 over 15k miles this way and no issues. I'd copy a page from my owners manual and post it, but it's currently in another state.


I've seen it noted in some other posts that the oil needed to circulate in the tranny by leaving it in gear. I assume that would make the odometer track the mileage as well. Would rather have the additional miles than ruin a transmission. Thanks for the info.
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Old 09-12-2017, 09:10 PM   #32
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I've seen it noted in some other posts that the oil needed to circulate in the tranny by leaving it in gear. I assume that would make the odometer track the mileage as well. Would rather have the additional miles than ruin a transmission. Thanks for the info.
When towing, I've had no miles racked up on the odometer. I track my towed miles in a spreadsheet so I know when to change the various fluids.
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Old 09-12-2017, 11:54 PM   #33
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I have the same RV as you, Huck, and am leaning heavily towards a Jeep Wrangler as a TOAD.

How much did your towing setup cost, roughly?
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:03 AM   #34
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I have the same RV as you, Huck, and am leaning heavily towards a Jeep Wrangler as a TOAD.

How much did your towing setup cost, roughly?
Have a similar setup on my Wrangler.... Figure 2500-3000....
Invisibrake is 1000... Towbar depending on model can be up to 800.
Huck saved some on baseplates having a Jeep with D rings... Bout 350 if you need baseplates like I did.
Mopar harness is around 150 if I recall.
Misc stuff, safety cables and such...
And installation if you don'T DIY...

Tows great... Barely know it's there.
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Old 09-13-2017, 02:48 AM   #35
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Thanks Greg!
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Old 09-13-2017, 01:50 PM   #36
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I paid about what Greg estimated. I don't think I saved any money by using the D ring mounts, because I did buy the bumper even though it was a few years ago. Also the tow bar comes with attachments for a baseplate, so I had to buy the ones that attach to D ring mounts which were $230. Plus I'm going to have to pay someone to weld something on my bumper to hook the safety chains on.
I got the Blue Ox 10,000 pound tow bar, and it came with all the safety chains and other attaching hardware. Since I have a four inch lift I had to get a ten inch drop insert turned upside down which was $160, but it did come with a locking pin. The drop insert put the hitch about an inch above y D ring mounts, but as you can see in the picture I haven't upgraded my tires yet. The tires will only be 35's but that will raise the Jeep another inch and a half.
Like Greg said it does tow great, but I definitely know it's there LOL. I'm sure it will be much better once I get the breaks all wired in. I haven't weighed it yet, but I'm sure it's well over 5,000 pounds. My heavy jeep is one of the reasons I chose Thor, because they're the only ones that have an 8,000 hitch all the other manufactures only use a 5,000 hitch.
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Old 09-13-2017, 03:40 PM   #37
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Thanks Huck! Very helpful info!
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Old 09-13-2017, 06:46 PM   #38
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Like Greg said it does tow great, but I definitely know it's there LOL. I'm sure it will be much better once I get the breaks all wired in. I haven't weighed it yet, but I'm sure it's well over 5,000 pounds. My heavy jeep is one of the reasons I chose Thor, because they're the only ones that have an 8,000 hitch all the other manufactures only use a 5,000 hitch.
Be interested in what you think after the Invisibrake is active... No doubt you would 'know it was there' without the braking system... Stopping an extra 5000 pounds will get your attention. With the invisibrake, I've never felt it stopping... Do see some difference on acceleration and more frequent downshifting on hills.
But stopping is the most important part.

(Mine is lighter - only 3300 curb weight. and don't load it up too much for normal trips.)

Do check your weights - while Thor does use an 8000 pound hitch on newer models - many rigs will exceed their GCWR long before that...
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Old 09-14-2017, 03:13 AM   #39
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Be interested in what you think after the Invisibrake is active... No doubt you would 'know it was there' without the braking system... Stopping an extra 5000 pounds will get your attention. With the invisibrake, I've never felt it stopping... Do see some difference on acceleration and more frequent downshifting on hills.
But stopping is the most important part.

(Mine is lighter - only 3300 curb weight. and don't load it up too much for normal trips.)

Do check your weights - while Thor does use an 8000 pound hitch on newer models - many rigs will exceed their GCWR long before that...


Oh I knew I would feel it in the braking without them being hooked up, but I meant that I could feel a huge difference in driving it. It got a lot more squirrelly when I was pulling my jeep than it was by itself. I chose this particular model because of the 30,000 pound GCWR and empty it only weighs about 21,000 pounds. We will be full timing at least for a few years, so it will be loaded. I fully plan on getting it weighed and getting an alignment done once everything is in here. I'm also going to weigh the Jeep, and once my stuff gets delivered on Friday I will probably put my soft top back on to reduce weight for my upcoming trip to SoCal.
I really do appreciate all the information everyone has given me to get my tow setup right. Now if all these damn lovebugs in southeast Texas can go away so I can get out and get all my wires hooked up for my brakes I'll be ready to go!
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Old 09-14-2017, 09:00 AM   #40
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Oh I knew I would feel it in the braking without them being hooked up, but I meant that I could feel a huge difference in driving it. It got a lot more squirrelly when I was pulling my jeep than it was by itself. I chose this particular model because of the 30,000 pound GCWR and empty it only weighs about 21,000 pounds. We will be full timing at least for a few years, so it will be loaded. I fully plan on getting it weighed and getting an alignment done once everything is in here. I'm also going to weigh the Jeep, and once my stuff gets delivered on Friday I will probably put my soft top back on to reduce weight for my upcoming trip to SoCal.
I really do appreciate all the information everyone has given me to get my tow setup right. Now if all these damn lovebugs in southeast Texas can go away so I can get out and get all my wires hooked up for my brakes I'll be ready to go!
I'm surprised... I don't notice any handling difference like that with my Hurricane.. over 5000 miles of towing the Wrangler... Would expect the Challenger to be even better...

Only thought is if things aren't 'aligned'. Thought would be to have someone drive behind you and see if all looks straight going down the road??
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