Quote:
Originally Posted by Beau388
Fist of all get a good digital thermometer or borrow one for an A/C repair place. Check the temp of the air going in after the A/C has been on high cool for at least 10 minutes. Doesn't matter what the humidity or the ambient air temps is. Don't use the thermometer on the dash or on the thermostat. Now check the temp of the air coming out of the A/C; not the temp of the housing or the temperature coming out of the ceiling ducts. The difference in the air temperatures of the inlet and outlet should be 20 degrees plus or minus 3 degrees. If it is not you air conditioner needs to be serviced by cleaning the filters, cleaning the condenser and/or cleaning the evaporator. The A/C units have a sealed refrigerant system which seldom fails. Most of the cooling problems are caused by dirt, dust and hair clogging the system. There have been cases when the baffle between the air entering evaporator and exiting the evaporator is bent or misplaced. Each A/C is a separate unit they should be check separately.
A/C current draw will vary with the compressor loads (ambient temperature). Typical draw for a 15,000 btu A/C on a 95 F ambient 80% humidity day is 17 amps, for a 13,500 btu unit about 15 amps, for a Mach 3PS about 11 amps. and for a Polar Cub (my favorite) 9 amps.
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Jim is correct. Check your temps going in and coming out of the unit. If 20* or so then you know its working properly and you have other problems like insulation etc
Good luck
Jerry
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