Thor Forums

[EA37TS]

Originally Posted by EV2

In a perfect system blowing out will work, but in the real world a low spot may let air through and collect water in the low spot which will freeze and split. When a tank is drained, a small amount of water across the bottom can freeze but will expand without force. As to the supply line from the tank, after the tank is drained, simply running the pump until dry will remove water and avoid expansion. Many current coaches are factory installed with a capped pickup line at the intake of the pump and water heater bypass valves to specifically avoid antifreeze in the fresh tank and water heater. The pump must be protected and blowing out lines may not clear the pump. Not bypassing the water heater wastes a huge amount of antifreeze before entering the lines after the heater. Like the fresh water tank, the water heater is totally safe with just a drain. Done properly, most coaches can be made safe with one to two gallons of antifreeze.

On coaches (new or older) with the Anderson Termination center, such as the Challenger, the antifreeze and sanitation solution is pumped into the tank before being circulated through the system with the pump.

On my prior class C I had the capped pickup line (winterization kit) you mention. The issue there was the kit was installed between the strainer and the pump so antifreeze never entered the strainer and it had to be disassembled for draining.

Back to the original question regarding stinky water, they may want to check that strainer. If it has never been cleaned or replaced it is hard telling what kind of crud build up may be inside.