Quote:
Originally Posted by carlgorski
How about installing a fan to blow directly on compressor or a vent to have air while you are driving blow over it?
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Smart guy! I already ordered a couple pancake fans and got them a couple days ago! I'll be putting them alongside the condenser fan to aid airflow through the condenser. I did that on the roof air "project" I had those few decades ago and I could see the difference in efficiency like night and day. I added a 12 volt electric cooling fan to the condenser box on that old Coleman roof air. I used 12 volts because my little 600 watt generator was already maxed out running the 110 for the AC. I had plenty of 12 volt power available. I had that extra fan on a switch, I could turn it on and literally see the amperage the AC was pulling drop and the outlet temps also drop. It helped. It's one of the things I'm trying on this 15k before I toss the whole thing in the trash. haha.
I'll take pics of the fans for you guys. They will actually blow directly on the compressor too.
BTW I'm reading more about 410a vs. r22 and r12. (I am professionally trained, certified and know a sh!tload about r12 and 134a automotive systems, but know very little about r22 or 410a.) To get evap temps of roughly 40 degrees these are the approximate pressures needed...
r12- temp and pressures run close to each other- about 40 psi.
r22- roughly 70 psi.
410a- roughly 120psi.
Bottom line... the change to the more "friendly" refrigerants has resulted in WAY higher compressor loads. If your condenser temps are around 130 degrees, that means that little compressor has to put out almost 500psi on it's high side! That's a lot of work, and builds a lot of heat.
Hey carlgorski, our daughter lived in Fairbanks for 3 years (military) and loved it!
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