(Part 2 of driver's seat base install).
The next picture is where I ran the power to the seat under the carpet. I'm not going to go in to any detail--this will vary based on how you do it.
The next picture is more of me having to be creative because I did this by myself. I had to wedge the metal plate back up in place. I placed the replacement pedestal in place inside the RV and used duct tape to hold the bolt in place while I ran inside and put on the bolt. This is one of the places where a second set of hands would have really speed things up. During this process I also created a ground wire by placing one end of the wire under a bolt.
Next, I added back shroud covering the bolts. Somewhere around here I added the wire connector's to both the ground and 12V with an inline fuse. I'd recommend not putting the fuse in holder yet. The metal of the chair is a good ground. Ask me how I know!
Next, I reattached the first side of the seat belt. Oh, and the swivel feature came in handy here and when installing the screws in the shroud.
Now we need to get to the seat base. Flip up the chair and remove the two sliding mechanisms (these are not needed--the power seat base has forward and backward movements). I also removed the bar connecting the sliding mechanisms to the front of the seat. In the picture, that is the bar at the top running vertically. Again, more 1/2" bolts.
The next picture is installing the clip that holds the power switches to the power seat base. Make sure it's on the desired side (there were screw holes on both sides.
Next, I bolted on the power seat base to the the chair. More 1/2" bolts.
The next picture is where I put the cross braces on to the seat base. One of them was removed from the bottom of the seat (3 steps back). The other one I had to manufacture (thank goodness I did this project at the house with a full shop). Make sure the distance between the holes that you use line up with the holes on the pedestal--in my case 11 1/2".
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