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Old 01-27-2019, 02:36 PM   #8
Porthole
Senior Member
 
Brand: DRV
Model: 2019 MS 39DBRS3
State: Delaware
Posts: 557
THOR #9431
Nice job.

Looks like you have a bit of a different duct arrangement.
On my install i had very little room to work with the rearmost plenum duct, although as arranged I get great airflow out of the lower level registers.

My 4” duct coming off the top and supplying the front bath and bedroom is barely adequate. Airflow from the 2” to the water manifold is non-existent.

In the spring I will be in there again and make some changes.

Some things I did different.
I have plenty of room in my panel box because I have a sub panel for the inverter. So I was able to get my 240 from there, eliminated one extra step.

I use my central vac, so while I had everything out I moved it all the way over to the door side and as high as I could.

I also added the pricey 120/240 relay.

Heat output of 30 amp, especially through such a large area is minimal, as expected.

What I do when on 30 is to heat the trailer with propane and then switch over to the electric. But I haven’t been in less the 35 degree temps with only 30 amp yet.

I did get to do a real test with the electric and was pleased with the results.
I took my trailer out to Howe 2 weelks ago. 450 miles at an average of 65mph in mid low 20’s to mid teens, so it was “wind chilled”. When I stopped for night I used the propane to get some heat in then switched to CH.

The electric was able to maintain my set temp of 63 and cycle on and off with outside temps dropping to 12 degrees.

FYI for anyone traveling from the east toward Elkhart/Howe. The travel plazas on rt 80 in Ohio have RV hookups, $20 for 24 hours.
They are mostly designed for 40’ overall length, but we have never had a problem.
Sometimes we have used two spaces (parked across) sometimes I have had to unhook and sometimes I am able to back the trailer up far enough to not have a length issue.
__________________
Thanks,
Duane

2019 DRV MS 39DBRS3
2020 F-450
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