Quote:
Originally Posted by dstankov
What's significance of "temps hovering around freezing" reference? - the need to keep water tanks, lines, filter and pump which are located in storage compartments from freezing and ruining one's day. As you can see in the photo below major water system components are located in one exterior compartment. The water pump cannot be seen because it is a black pump mounted on a on black floor.
Attachment 744
Since the AC and Furnace use separate ducting, heat strips in the AC will not heat the storage compartments and prevent the water system from freezing. The storage compartments on the Challenger are heated by the furnace ducts. During a 2 week trip in November we experienced multiple nights of 25 degree temps and went through 3 tanks of propane (not counting pre and post trip fills).
|
Thanks for clarification Dave -- I was confused by wording thinking you meant down to temperatures just around freezing. Obviously with electric heat it doesn't matter what the temperature is. It works just as well at 30 degrees as at 0 degrees as far as delivering the design heat rate. Whether that's enough to elevate tank and pump temperatures above freezing is another issue.
The largest unit at 5000 watts delivers a bunch of heat compared to the 1500 watts maximum I've used in portable heaters. And I usually run it on low at night. Granted your motorhome is much larger but also much better insulated. If the 120-Volt smaller heater was an option on an Axis I think I would order it. Although more expensive it should beat portable heaters any day.
I'm curious, can furnace fans be run without the propane heat on in modern furnaces? Like running AC with just fan? Just wondering if it's possible to circulate warm coach air through furnace ducts to keep the tanks above 32 F. I'm asking as it affects heated-tank option.