Quote:
Originally Posted by javelin
Using your ohm meter function on the multimeter is probably the easiest to do. Turn off your furnace so no 12vdc is on the circuits. Switch multimeter on to ohms and touch your meter probes together......you should see zero ohms on the meter. Some analog meters have a zeroing control that allows you to manually zero the reading; digital meters usually show zero right off or there may be a zeroing pushbutton. The main thing is with probe tips touching you should see zero or close to zero ohms. Then touch the probes onto the limit switch terminals.....or the appropriate wires coming from the limit switch if it is buried in the furnace. You should see the same zero or very low resistance value as when you tested the meter probes initially. If the limit switch is high resistance it will need replacement. You will need your furnace make and model number to buy a new limit switch. After replacing the limit switch monitor your furnace and if the new limit switch fails or trips open again then you will need to check air flow through the combustion chamber and also all output heat vents in the coach to make sure there are no blockages. I hope that helps.
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Ok. So I did misspeak. It appears my limit switch is good then as the readings on the voltmeter are the same when probes touching and when placed on the leads on the switch.
Tested and visualized my sail switch. It appears good.
Anything else before I take it in? Does this have anything to do with the fan in the bathroom?
Thanks
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