Originally Posted by tjthorson
I realize this is an old thread, however, while searching for help with my issue, I came across this thread, so I wanted to add my solution. I have a 2016 Thor 31W RV with the Whirlpool Residential fridge that I bought new. Mine has a full driver’s side slide out. A dinette is behind the driver’s seat, and a fold down sofa is behind the passenger seat. It’s on an E450 chassis with the V10. Like the others, this year my fridge was barely cooling to 40 degrees and wouldn’t freeze ice. My RV has only been used 2 seasons and has 18,000 miles on it. I am VERY disappointed in my RV overall. So far I have had to replace the leveler pump motor, generator main control board, coach and truck batteries, generator transfer switch (which almost burned the RV down), 3 tires because of bad sidewalls, front TV bad LCD, along with numerous falling moldings, roof leaks, leaking shower, and a long list of other little things that are just bad design/quality/build.
It was clear from the beginning that the fridge would not fit through the side door. Mine measured 25 ¼” front to back, 28” wide, and about 65” tall, make sure yours is the same. The 25 ¼” is the most important measurement. That’s with all doors, brackets, and shelves removed. I saw the suggested posts about removing the passenger side window and frame, or removing the windshield. I did not like either of those options. The windshield, I would have to have a company come and do. The side window I would risk a leak putting it back in. I took some measurements and determined that it will fit out the passenger door of the cab. Below are the steps, tools, and process I used. It took the better part of the day with lots of trial and error, hopefully this guide will help you do it faster. I also include the details about the new fridge I bought, which is slightly smaller than the Whirlpool, but has the same interior space. I also highlight the areas that I did some cosmetic damage to my RV in the hopes you can avoid it.
1) Put the slide all the way out
2) Remove the existing fridge. Brackets on the bottom and the top. Remove the drawer under the fridge to unplug the fridge. Remove the doors and door brackets, along with the door lock. Remove all shelves and drawers. (Damage note – watch the edge molding under the front of the fridge when you remove it, it easily scratches.)
3) Remove the passenger side A Pillar molding with the grab handle. Pull the square rubber plugs for the grab handle, use an 8mm socket for the bolts in there. The molding just pulls off.
4) Remove the black passenger kick panel (down under the dash) by pulling from the top and working it out.
5) Inside the kick panel is an area with 5-6 electrical plugs. There are two to disconnect for the power locks and windows. Follow the wires up to the area where they go through the door to figure out which ones.
6) Remove the passenger door of the chassis. Make sure to fold the side mirror all the way in against the door. There are 4 13mm bolts you can get to inside by the door hinges – note, remove the bolts going into the door – NOT the bolts into the chassis. You may want to take a marker and mark the bracket for alignment, although my lined back up perfectly. You CANNOT completely disconnect the door because of the side view camera and heated mirror wires (if you have those options). I put the door on top of a folding chair and leaned it up against the front fender. (Damage note – put a towel or cardboard between the mirror and the fender of the chassis, the plastic mirror housing rubbed though the paint!
7) Remove the passenger seat. Disconnect the wires for the seat belt sensor. There are two T60 TORX bolts in front (I only had a T55, it worked fine). There are two nuts on studs in the back, I used a ¾ socket, its probably an 18mm.
8) Remove the driver’s seat, just like the passenger seat.
9) Remove the console/engine cover
10) Unscrew the passenger side sofa sleeper. Mine had 2 bracket screws on each side in the back, 1 high and 1 low. There are 4 larger screws holding it to the floor. Move it all the way toward the back (effectively blocking the side door).
11) Lay down some blankets/carpets along the floor, going out the passenger door area to cover the seat studs and prevent damage to the floor
12) Slide the fridge toward the front and angle it out the door. Have the opening of the fridge (front) toward the dash. Have one person outside to catch the fridge and 1-2 people inside to lift. You will have to lift the fridge and angle it out the doorway. (Damage note – watch for damage to the seat back of the dinette, and the molding around the van cutout up top by the bunk, and the dash/airbag area. Go SLOW!
13) Put the new fridge in the same way and reinstall all the above items. Success!
Other notes – my new fridge was slightly smaller than the Whirlpool. It was a GE from Home Depot. I got it in black, which actually seems to match the interior better and you can use magnets on it. It was Model GTS16GTHMRBB and was $620, on sale for $580. I paid the $125 for the three year extended no fault warranty. With the doors, shelves, etc removed, it was about an inch shorter, same width, and ½ less deep, so it went in easier than the Whirlpool came out. I used the original brackets to mount the new one. The door lock had to be modified since the GE doors are slightly thicker than the Whirlpool ones. That’s it!
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