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Usually I receive the weekly email to these links after the problem has been resolved. So, forgive me if that’s the case.
Your photo shows 10-gauge wire for the alternating current (AC) which is rated for 30 amps. Your inverter is wired to support the whole load of your RV, to include air conditioner. At 115 volts AC, 30 amps equals 3450-watts. You have a 2000-watt inverter that may handle short time periods up to 4000 watts; and that is only if the 12-volt direct current (DC) cables are size 4 all the way to the battery. If the wire size is too small, it will decrease the DC voltage and cause the inverter to shut down or go into alarm.
Your inverter transfer is automatic which means it is constantly monitoring for loss of 115-volt AC input, when input is loss it switches over to invert 12 volt direct current to 115 volt AC output. This also means the all the AC electrical used in the RV is going across a relay inside the inverter.
I recommend you only connecting the inverter to support one alternating current (AC) circuit. Also, Check that your 12-volt DC wire size meets manufactures’ recommendation. Ensure the wire goes un-interrupted from your inverter and fuse all the way to the house battery.
For my inverter; I choose one 15-amp AC circuit to invert with the entertainment equipment and wall plugs under dinette (I’m not concerned about the refrigerator as it is 2-way AC/Propane refrigerator). I use a manual transfer switch so that I control the inverter; not some automatic circuit that will at erratic under brown out or overload. I had to replace my manual transfer switch once because the electric space heaters we use cause carbon burns on the contacts within the manual transfer switch. We now use our space heaters on circuits that are not supported by the inverter.
I hope your issue has been resolved or is soon.
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