Thor Forums

[TurnerFam]

over 100,000 miles towing either a 2014 Ford Fiesta automatic or a 2014 Ford Focus automatic translates to about 11.4mpg while towing either vehicle, both in the 2,400 to 2,600 lbs range, and about 12.4mpg when not towing...

as to 'whether' you should, or should not, tow 4-down versus the common tow dolly method is more of a personal decision - some will dolly simply because they already have a vehicle they own, they like to drive, and is paid for, especially if it is front-wheel drive. You can even take a trial run or two by simply renting a small UHaul dolly and give it a few tries.
Most of us that now tow 4-down probably have had some experience with tow dollying, and have decided that it's just not the most comfortable or easiest way to tow your vehicle, especially if you really travel a lot, or full-time with your vehicle in tow, but it doesn't mean that the simply tow dolly method can't still suffice - many do it every day.

4-down means that your vehicle is being towed, in neutral, with the steering wheel unlocked, and it 'follows' your path. There's no 'ramps' to have to drive up onto, or the fear of 'overdriving' over them, and there's no 'straps' and 'chains' to have to struggle with or even get down on your hands and knees to connect. There's also little way to backup with a tow dolly, though backing up with 4-down is slightly more possible, and at least a lot easier to 'disconnect' if backing becomes a necessity.
Tow dollies must be disconnected every time you back into an rv park or campground site, as well, and sometimes must even be stored somewhere else since the site may not have room. Those who tow cars on trailers know this well.

While a 4-down vehicle must have a tow plate installed up front, the overall cost of a tow dolly versus towing 4-down is negligible... as either is bound to cost between $1,000 to $1,500.00. The advantage of the dolly is that it is usable for many vehicles, but the tow bar is only usable for the vehicle you have a tow plate for, usually your 'dedicated' tow vehicle. If you trade, sell, or upgrade, you then have to add another tow plate on the new tow vehicle, if there is one. Tow bar manufacturers don't necessarily make a tow plate for every conceivable towable vehicle, so check this out before you 'dive into' a vehicle you are contemplating towing... and make sure the vehicle manufacturer actually ALLOWS it, and the procedure involved in making it happen.
Some cars require you to pull a fuse after hooking up, while others don't require anything, like my Fords, though if you add a 12v disconnect near the battery, it means that you can rest assured that the vehicle's battery won't be dead when you arrive. A few vehicles actually require that you only drive 'less than' a certain mph, and even a few others require that you STOP every hundred miles or so to 'crank her up and let her run for a while'...crazy. You don't really want that.

You don't have to stick with 'manual transmissions' only, as a real majority of 4-down RV towed vehicles are actually AUTOMATIC and require nothing more than putting the vehicle into Neutral. Simple.