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As cavie says, a battery disconnect at the chassis battery would be the least costly way to isolate the battery, but if the latching relay inside the BCC is intermittent or failed open, then even with the cheap disconnect in place and closed, you may still have some BCC internal fused coach loads not working. You could bypass the bad latching relay as well, but that probably requires removing the BCC (unless there is an easy jumper solution on the component side of the BCC circuit board.....would be very awkward to install though). If you have to remove the BCC, you might as well fix it (latch relay is under $100; circuit board needs a bank loan probably). After you have the convenience of a chassis and a coach disconnect toggle switch at the door, it is hard to change......until you get the bill for any major cost BCC related repairs.
For folks that rarely boon dock, my best advice to longer life on your latching relay(s) is...... turn it/them on at the start of the season and don’t turn it/them off unless you have no shore power access; you’re not driving down the road; or the gen does not work. This assumes all charging systems are working correctly of course and both chassis and coach batteries are charged together (some coaches do not charge both coach and chassis at the same time).
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