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Old 06-15-2020, 05:14 PM   #4
javelin
Senior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: 2013 ACE 30.1
State: Alberta
Posts: 1,410
THOR #2631
I am not familiar with your coach specifics, so the following is just my “guess/observations” based on your pictures only.
First off most mechanics I know would be smart enough to take pictures of the coach battery wiring before replacing the batteries and then re-connecting them.....especially in a typical RV cabling rats nest. If that cable was already disconnected before the mechanic opened things up he should have advised you and at least taped it up, if he did not know where it should be connected. If you drive anywhere for this to be fixed/worked on, tape up the loose connection to be safe.
Secondly, while 12vdc will not electrocute you, the current that can be supplied by your parallel connected 12vdc coach batteries, can vaporize a crescent wrench, ring on your finger or watch on your wrist, in seconds, with potential burns to you or sparks and fire. So if you don’t know anything about electricity I highly suggest an RV tech (mobile or Dealer) help you out. Also, buy yourself an inexpensive digital multi-meter and learn how to use it......DC voltmeter part would be useful in this case to test voltages on the loose cable and either side of the 50 amp breaker.


So Cavie is probably correct with the loose cable likely going to front left battery +12vdc terminal (but any loose cable like that in a battery bay is a potential meltdown waiting to happen, if a DC breaker does not trip open to save the day). Looking at your battery pictures it “looks like” the loose cable comes from one of the terminals on the back of the 50 amp breaker; the other side of the 50 amp breaker looks like it connects to a red wire going into a black plastic wire loom.......”possibly” coming from the latching relay (the small black box shown in the lower left corner of your converter picture). The latching relay is what your use/store switch controls to connect coach batteries to the converter fuse panel (through the 50 amp breaker). If this is true, then your converter is not charging the coach batteries when you are on shore or generator power......and eventually the batteries would discharge from any loads connected to them directly (parasitic loads like propane gas detector etc). The other observation is your +12vdc terminals (front in battery pictures) seem to be connected to the top terminals of the two HI Amp DC breakers.....one looks like 100 amps; can’t see the other. These typically connect to the generator starter motor; the hydraulic pump motor for your jacks; or possibly inverter. Note the two +12vdc battery terminals are cabled together; and I would expect the two -12vdc battery terminals are also tied together and then connected to chassis for your DC ground (the batteries are connected in parallel to provide same voltage, but then they can supply current for longer periods to the coach loads).


If you had a voltmeter, I would check for any 12vdc on the loose cable when on shore power. Make sure the 50 amp DC breaker is closed (not tripped) and use/store is on. It might be possible that the use/store latch relay gets its “on/off” control voltage via the loose cable +12vdc cable connection. So no connection, no latching relay operation. If you don't hear the latch relay operate and release, you likely won’t get any voltage reading on the loose cable. I am attaching a basic RV battery DC schematic which is generic only and probably does not match your coach exactly. On the right side it shows how the converter fuse panel connects through the latch relay and 50 amp breaker to the coach batteries. As I said previously,, if you are not electrically experienced call an RV tech who knows what they are doing.....the money they charge is worth it if you and your RV remain safe and sound.
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