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Thread: Tank sensors
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Old 06-20-2020, 04:44 PM   #8
Pete'sMH
Senior Member
 
Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: Forest River Forester 235
State: Indiana
Posts: 4,884
THOR #6826
Quote:
Originally Posted by Travelin' Texans View Post
Macdaddy brought up another point!
You do not have to pay the higher price for the crappy (pun intended) RV specific toilet paper, any 2 ply that the DW likes that states "septic safe" on the package will do just fine & won't make a bit of difference with the sensors.
The enzymes are typically a waste of $$ as usually aren't in the tanks long enough to do any good, but I'm guessing the parks septic system appreciates the added dose. Most any of the chemicals for your tanks are for odor control more than anything else, so if you want to use one pick one that smells good. Do not use PineSol in your black tank, it smells like you've been eating pine cones, not pleasant, BTDT! Also do not use bleach, it deteriorates the seals. A good shot of liquid dish/laundry soap with a gallon of water in the black tank after dumping will work as good or better than most of much higher priced tank cleaners. Also a 1/4 cup of cooking oil in the grey tanks 2-3 times a year helps keep the valve seals lubricated.
The key to the black tanks on RVs is plenty of water per flush, once it drops hold the peddle for another 5-6 seconds letting the water run in. NEVER EVER leave the black valve open when connected to a sewer hookup. If you want/need you can leave the grey valve open, just close it a day or so (at least a shower or 2) before draining the black tank so you have plenty of rinse for your hose after the black is drained.
Everything you ever wanted to know about the most unpleasant part of rving!


Disagree with respect to enzymes. When I store my machine between trips I make sure there is a good bit of water in the tanks and add an enzyme treatment. I believe it helps break down the gunk.
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