Thor Forums

[16ACE27]

Originally Posted by Wiley1

Would it be possible to limit this discussion to facts, and leave the emotion out of it? I'm an electrician and a scientist. I'm not judging anybody and I'm not interested in "taking anybody to task". I was offering useful advice for anybody who wants to hear it. Anyone can take my advice in the spirit it was offered or ignore my advice for any reason.
You are the one doing the judging here. I'm just offering some facts and a few opinions for constructive discussion.
Just possibly, there is somebody out there who can benefit.

Let's go over the facts:
- electrically, it is OK to connect a low current device to high current outlet. We do it everyday.
- it is NOT a good idea to connect a high current device to a low current outlet. It will work, to a point, but it is a terrible idea. Why? Because, your device may draw more current than the circuit was designed to deliver. If that condition lasts long enough, the breaker in the panel is supposed to trip. Why? To protect the wiring inside the wall, and protect the house, and the outlet, and the connected equipment, and the person using the equipment. If everything is working properly, you might hear a loud pop or you might hear the cables shaking inside the wall, but you probably won't burn the house down because the excess current didn't last long enough to catch anything on fire. The breaker has done its job and no harm is done except that everything on that circuit was abruptly powered down. However, if the breaker does not perform as intended, you could have melted wiring inside the walls, and the house could be reduced to a pile of ashes.
- a class-C motorhome is generally a 30A (single phase) device. That means it is designed to draw up to, and no more than, 30A of 120vac current continuously from a shore power source before the main breaker in the MH's electrical panel trips.
- most RV campsites offer 30A or 50A outlets. There is a reason they don't offer 20A outlets except for tent campers and they definitely don't hand out gender-bending adapters for people to intentionally overload circuits.

Now I will offer some opinions:
- I would discourage anyone from powering a 20A washing machine from a 15A outlet. Why? Because the washing machine is likely to draw more than 15A and that is more current than the outlet is designed to deliver. The breaker could trip or the wiring could fry.
- Likewise, I would discourage anyone from connecting a 30A RV to a 15A outlet. We have all done it, in a pinch, but it is dangerous. In some cases, it might be your only source of power. But, don't be surprised if the breaker trips as soon as you turned on the AC unit. Or, maybe the AC works fine until you press a button on the microwave. Then Bam! The RV drew more than 15A and the circuit went dead. There is risk involved in this arrangement.
- The technically correct way to connect a 30A RV is by using a true 30A outlet. I installed one at my last house and I installed one in my new house. Why? Because I don't want to risk burning up my breakers, my electrical panel, my house wiring, my extension cords, or the equipment in my RV.
- When I visit friends, and I ask where I can connect my RV, my first choice would be a 30A RV outlet. If they own an RV, they probably have one of those. My second choice would be a 20A kitchen or washing machine outlet. My third choice would be a 15A household outlet. My absolute last choice would be a 15A GFCI or AFCI outlet.
- Because I understand electricity, I know to never run my AC unit over a 15A connection. Some people might not be aware of that issue.
- I also know to always use the shortest possible 20A or 25A extension cord. Why? Because the longer the cord, the more resistance it has. Resistance causes a voltage drop and heat. A cord that is too thin or too long can easily melt and start a fire.
- I have never driven my car into a tree to find out if the air bags were functioning. I do not recommend that anybody should pull more than 15A through a $4.00 household breaker to see if it is working correctly.

Conclusions:
- If you own a 30A RV and you regularly connect to shore power at your house, you should consider installing a true 30A RV outlet. In the long run, it is good insurance to keep your home safe and allow you to use all the equipment in your rig without overloading the circuit.
- Anytime you connect a 30A device to a outlet designed for less than 30A, you are taking a risk. If you understand and accept that risk, that is your business, not mine.

So, now that you have the facts, and a few of my opinions, you can judge me if you like. But, you don't know what is in my heart, so please don't assume.

WOW! That's a lot or words!

You jumped in and responded to a post that was over 3 years old; not to help the poster but to tell them they are doing something wrong IN YOUR OPINION. The poster had already resolved their problem and your opinion flies in the face of standard practice with RVers across the country.

There is no 30 amp device - any RV with a 30 amp connection can pull more than 30 amps easily. Most RVers know they can't run their air conditioner when using a common 30 amp to 15 amp adapter and they don't intend to. They want to keep their batteries charged and cool the fridge. The 15/20 amp breaker in the house will limit their current draw. You shouldn't say it shouldn't be done - it's done daily with no ill consequences.

Now on the other hand if you want to camp/reside in your RV at home than it is an excellent idea to install an RV 30 Amp connection (or 50 Amp for those so inclined).

So now we have three themes in this thread:

The OP's issue which has been resolved.
A new poster with a similar problem seeking help.
Your discussion about RV electricity which hasn't helped either problem.

It's easy to see why this should easily be 3 different threads for continuity and clarity.