Thor Forums

[JimC]

"1. This news to me that specific battery types can't be used with specific systems. "Electricity, when I thought I was getting to know you, you throw me another curve ball". I plan to replace the charge controller, inverter, I guess now converter, and whatever else is needed to survive off a LiFePO4 bank.
2. My first preference is LiFePO4 batteries, last is flooded. Low weight and low maintenance.
4. I will need 400-600W of power coming in. There looked to be room on the roof when I saw the vehicle, I plan to go with 200W panels. Do I need to drill into the aluminum frame? It's a TPO roof so I was thinking I'd secure to the wood surface the TPO adheres to...
5. That sounds like a lot. I can't imagine a 100W panel can replenish all that."


#1. The difference has to do with the charging rate curves and float levels required for the LiPo4 and flooded/sealed batteries.
#4. If you use rigid panels, I absolutely recommend drilling into the frame. The wood layer under your TPO roof is about 1/8 in. thick and is not capable of holding against much force. A month ago, on the KS turnpike, we encountered 55-60mph cross winds over a 40 mile stretch. The speed limit was 75mph but I was driving 50-55mph to be able to keep it on the highway. [I'll let someone else figure out the vector forces involved.] I really don't know if the solar panel could have survived that wind force if I had only drilled into the wood. At best, I would guess that there would have been enough roof flex to potentially create a leak. At worst, I can't even imagine how much damage a 30" x 48" aluminum framed panel flopping around on the roof in those winds might have caused.
#5. I started with very a full charge on the batteries after driving for four hours. I had plenty of juice left to start my generator about 7:30AM.the next morning, and soon after continued my trip. If I were stationary for multiple days without running the generator or truck motor, I'm not sure just how long the batteries could be sustained.
JC
JC