Quote:
Originally Posted by tuchmybuttercups
Good info. Thanks for your response.
I do plan to use rigid panels.
1. One last question - how did fasten to the C-frame? Screw? Bolt with nut?
2. From another post: Why 4 6Vs and not 2 12Vs? Going into this project I was focused on using 12V, but this forum has reminded me of the existence of 6V, so trying to see which is better for my application.
3. From Bry899: The wood on the roof is too thin to secure anything to it. Jim C said it is about 1/8" thick, and a google search states 1/4" thick.
But either way 1/8" or 1/4" is not structurally strong enough to hold Rigid solar panels at highway speed.
Anything mounted on the roof should be secured to the framing structure.
I wouldn't want to be behind you when they fly off.
|
1. I used 1/4 inch by ~1 1/2 inch brass toilet bowl bolts with washers and locking nuts.
2. 4 6Vs connected with 2 pairs of batteries connected in series, and those pairs connected in parallel, will give you 12V but with greater load capacity than just two 12V batteries. However, the same amount of space will be taken by the 4-6Vs as 4-12Vs which would give you higher total load capacity.
3. On page 1, top left corner, of Thor Owner Resources Spec Document TRF1008-01.PDF, the wood product under the TPO is 2.7mm [=~0.106in=~1/10th in.]LAUAN. Under that is Foam/Frame, and then a ceiling panel of 1/4in vinyl covered wood. The aluminum frame is 1x1.5x0.04in square tubing. I highly suggest that you download this document prior to mounting anything to the roof as it also gives all specs & dimensions on the roof assembly. I used sheet metal screws through the C-channels into the aluminum, with lots of DICOR.