Well I assume the Winni techs should know their own electrical systems but maybe the factory did something "different" somewhere? I would have “guessed” the two coach (house) battery +12 cables you describe would have been one via a 100 Amp reset-able breaker (typical) feeding hydraulic pump motor; the gen start solenoid/relay and via a secondary 50 amp reset-able breaker, the use/store latch relay to ultimately feed the coach fuse panel/converter connection; the second coach battery cable (via the 150 amp fuse) feeding your 1000 watt inverter (assuming 80% efficient – say 1200 watts @12vdc = 100 Amps full load WAG). But turning off use/store kills all coach battery loads and inverter......all, except the ant/cable switch LED......only if the chassis battery is still connected.
The most interesting “new info” comment is #3: removing the coach (house) battery ground connection kills inverter and ant/cable LED. I assume this is under your test situation where the use/store is off (store) and chassis battery is still connected? If yes, it tells me that somehow the coach battery is still sourcing the voltage to operate the ant/cable LED. Any way to easily remove the physical ground connection (temporarily) from your inverter only and leave all else ? Lets isolate DC voltage sources. Try your tests again.
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