Quote:
Originally Posted by Karl404
I'm inclined to agree with DavidEM in theory regarding A/C use. What's the point of having a 3000 W inverter if you can't generate 3000 W.
I do have a soft start as recommended above, but that doesn't reduce the overall power requirements of the A/C, just smooths out the curve.
I've measured the voltage drop under load across various cables, fuses and connectors and it seems like each cable or connector contributes on the order of 0.05 V of drop or about 7 W of waste heat each. Maybe 70-100 W of heating is enough to make the cables heat up?
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4.8kwh of lithium and 2500w inverter and I still wouldn't do it for any length of time.
If the A/C is not receiving sufficient amps, it's going to generate heat and that will include the wire(s) as they try to keep up with the draw. He keeps it up and he could end up with unintended consequences
Regardless of how its set up, he now knows the setup can't handle it and he should probably back off until he gets it figured out.
There's no mention of the distance between the batts and inverter and inverter to distribution panel, and the dist panel to the A/C - nor the guage of the wire used. Without those numbers, the potential volt and corresponding amp loss is not calculable.
The A/C is likely on a 20A circuit requiring a minimum of 12-2 wire. There'll be little volt drop on the 120 output side of the inverter, so that becomes less of a concern than the 12v input between the batts and inverter. If the batts are under the steps Iin front) and inverter is under the bed (in the rear), even 4/0 wouldn't be sufficient for a run like that, when trying to run a 20A load or the compressor surge (i.e. A/C)
This will help with sugested wire sizes and will by no means calculate volt drop and amp loss. Distance matters.
https://baymarinesupply.com//bosns_corner_wire_sizes