Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimbo56
Auto level sends all 4 jacks down to ground contact (Levelup system on mine). It then tries to raise the front to level. With the rear jacks down, the rear end can’t squat. So it raises the front off the ground. Here’s how I do manual.
Run the front down till level. L or R if needed. Then run rear down just until they make contact. Bingo. All that wobbling and jumping up and down puts stress on the frame, walls, and roof. It can’t be good for the coach.
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I guess this is what I am trying to understand. It it fundamentally hard for me grasp why Auto level does not work. Just like I grasp doing it manually and both should work if done correctly, unless something is wrong?
Maybe someone should define
"does not work" From reading my manual, I grasp I am at greater risk of doing damage to my coach but doing so manually ( twisting etc. from inexperience).
Anyhow, it is not clear if some are saying they Auto Level does NOT auto Level (complete to be level?), or when it auto level they don't like the way the Mfg design the way it levels.
I know manual is there for a reason, and I have used it, use to use quite frequently because I thought it was the thing to do from posts from past years. But I just verify the surface, and press auto button and wait for the wait light to flash green (takes a minute) always level per my Digital Camco green / red level indicators. I have seen a wheel slightly off ground on rare occasion. I have many 2" x12" wooden blocks I made. I will put a block on the side of the tire in question; raise the jacks, back coach up, slide block(s) in, drive up on it and re-level. Other than the manual, I am not structural engineer to tell anyone it is needed, but it is very rare and what I do. If for no other reason, I get to use the wooden blocks I made.
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