Quote:
Originally Posted by petew
I put a knife switch on the positive post of my chassis battery . When the rv is parked I open the knife switch which isolates the chassis battery from Trombettas , Birds or any voltage drains .
For charging I have a disconnect harness wired to the + and - sides of the chassis battery (at the posts) that plugs into my Battery Tender charger , the end of that harness has a weather cap and can extend through the grille for plug in to the charger.
I did this a week or so ago after finding my chassis battery dead and house batteries down on voltage , all while on shore power.
I found a draw on the chassis battery and after searching this forum found a great thread ( Dead chassis battery E350 )that claims the draw is in three (dash) circuits for lighting if I recall correctly.
To me the knife switch is not the "correct" way to solve the problem but isolating the chassis battery Keeps it from overcharging or being drained to nothing.
The switch was easy to install and easy to access/operate. I am no expert ,
Just my 2 cents on the subject
|
You have something wrong with your charging system. If you are plugged into shore power at all times, both battery banks should stay fully charged. The WFCO converter should charge both battery banks to 12.7 or so volts and then switch to trickle charge mode to keep them charged. The only time you should need to separate the chassis battery is if you are not on shore power. While plugged into shore power, you should not read below 13.1v on either the house or the chassis batteries.