Quote:
Originally Posted by Becauseican
Thanks to all. I will move one of the cables to the other battery as suggested. the only load I had on the inverter was the regular rv frig nothing else. I have heard that the "Harris" battery's that Thor puts in its units are not too good. So when they go bad I will replace them with some better quality battery's. I don't have enough room to put golf cart battery's in. I have an RS26 class C and the battery's are under my entry way.
Thanks again to all
Phil
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Phil, when you say "regular RV fridge", do you mean the kind that can run on both propane and 110-Volt electricity? If so, that's likely your biggest problem.
As an example, I just looked up the power requirement of a typical 6 cubic foot Dometic absorption fridge when running on 110-Volt electricity and it's listed in specs at 440 watts. That's a lot, and many times that of a typical residential refrigerator which only runs on a compressor powered by electricity.
Typical RV refrigerators use absorption cooling technology that is very inefficient when running on electricity compared to residential compressor technology.
If you do have a normal RV fridge, just run it on gas/propane and save your batteries and inverter for electric loads that require them.
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