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Old 06-02-2017, 01:57 AM   #52
RipVanWinkle
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Brand: Thor Motor Coach
Model: ACE 30.3
State: Texas
Posts: 72
THOR #1291
Quote:
Originally Posted by TyCreek View Post
Sorry to double quote but I'm on a computer now and can give a bit more information to share why I posted 200W or so comment early on in this thread. Hopefully before an order for 5x100W PV's takes place

Ok... I'll try to summarize: Assume or work toward a maximum of 2% loss between PV & Battery and work from there ... If 2x100W panels total 11 Amps at 12V'ish and 10 gauge wire can provide 2% or less loss up to about 7 feet for 15 Amps you can accommodate those 2 PV's. With this 12V type thought reference, if your real wire length is actually closer to 10-11 feet you'd be pushing a 2% max loss target with even 2 of those panels.

To be under 2% with 5 of those panels your 10 gauge wire length would likely be just a few feet (especially if connectors are also factored in).

Certainly there are other factors and in real use you'd likely not be hitting max PV current very often. I'm just trying to help with some core basic design rules that stick in my head from previous experiments in solar and wind storage systems.

The solution IMO is to increase PV voltage such as 24 or 48V with 12V compatible controller solution options. This concept happens to be more attainable with higher efficiencies recently and was mentioned earlier in this thread.


Thanks for the info ...and I didnt order yet since i have to do more research on this. I was hoping to put at least 400 watt of solar on the roof so I can keep things running when boondocking.( still working fulltime and hating the sound of a generator ) Also have to take a close look at batteries and see how they all fit together..what good is solar if the batteries wont hold it.
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