2 Dead Relion's - Here's how that happens

[RonRM]

You all are going to love this...sad as it is.

4 week trip to FLA, all going well. Campgrounds, boone docking...all good.

Final drive day to get to West Palm - Balmar display dead, all 12v systems dead on arrival. Didn't pay attention while driving, so complete surprise on arrival. Luckily, everything works without batteries if plugged in.

After 2 days of troubleshooting, 4 battery chargers (thank you Amazon for 30day returns) and a lot of unnatural yoga poses under the coach - both Relion's are dead and will not wake up. Completely disconnecting and isolating each, they actually read 0 volts at the terminals. 2 chargers would not recognize them (at zero volts can't tell if 6/12v batteries), one charger had a 'refresh' setting (full charge no matter voltage) and finally a lab power supply...none of these would wake-up the batteries.

Addition: I called Mastervolt too...after testing, determined it survived, pretty much disables itself at around 9V.

Tried the emergency switch trick via Thor's video, nope...nothing wakes the batteries up.

Called Relion, turns out Thor engineering geniuses they are, decided that Relion batteries can take the full 175amps (UHG output in practice probably around 150amps) from the UHG for any amount of time, hoping the BMS will kick-out due to over current. Well, guess what, Relion batteries kick out all right, by blowing up the BMS as they can't actually take a high current inrush. Apparently, the BMS might kick-out on slowly rising overcurrent, but more than likely blow up if the current spikes. As the person at Relion said, just the A/C coming on and increasing the RPM's could take a Relion out in the current design. Relion and Thor are working on solution.

Called Thor, they wanted me to take it to a dealer. I asked if I could remove the batteries and just take them to the dealer for warrantee handling. They said that was up to the dealer. I just didn't pursue it with them from there.

So, if you have 2 good batteries, no much of an issue. Current splits between them and they stay way under charge amps that will damage them.

But, let's say one goes to sleep before the other one, that means the other Relion gets the full charge - kiss it good-bye. Then the sleeping battery gets woken-up, guess what, since the first one is now dead, the second one gets the full charge amps...and now it's gone too. You probably should have a Balmar APM-12 installed, since when a battery abruptly disconnects the alternator field dumps - that dump can be way over 12vdc and could take out 12v devices in the coach.

More fun...after reviewing this YT (same exact issue I had) https://youtu.be/9WdCP0wZcIU?si=8x3CwRoASMdWHL9a
I decided to pull the batteries...more Thor genius at work.

Yes, you need to jack the frame up, to clear the rear axle to get 4 nuts off the battery cage - zero fun was had. Once, past that step, it's easy to get the batteries tipped and out - I used a floor jack to support them as in the video.

Once I got them tipped and started disconnecting...no surprises - true to Thor crap engineering. Thor wired the regulator power directly to one of the batteries vs. to the buss bars (that will be changed in the redesign). Not the end of the world, just poor choice.

This was my favorite find, the MRBF fuses on the + post...I would expect them to be 150amp as on the Thor schematics. Well they must have been completely out of stock, so what the heck...'let's just put in 300amp fuses they gotta be twice as good', what are the chances the 2/0 cable (rated under 195amps) will ever see that much current. Yep, both batteries had 300amp MRBF's on the posts. Complete and utter negligence.

Called Balmar, asked if they either had a regulator that could control current or how could I set the 618 to minimize the possibility of 150amp+ charging. Belt Load Management is the key.

I'm going to have to play with it, when I get batteries installed again, I'm thinking of lowering it somewhere between 85% - 75%. I was warned not to go below 65% as there needs to be some room for the regulator to lower the field as the alternator temp increases.

I'm good taking a bit longer to charge, vs. not having to replace another set of batteries.

I have 2 new replacement Relion's on the way, under warrantee...at least Relion stands behind their products very grateful for that. I should say most of the time Thor did their part in all my warrantee claims, but they should really re-consider their engineering choices.

Changes I'll make to the design:

Add 120amp breakers (bussman or blue sea - no knockoffs) vs. MRBF fuses- way easier to reset vs. drop the battery to get at them.

Move regulator power to buss bars vs. single battery

Change Belt Field Management between 85-75% to limit charge current.

Add a DPST switch on both the ignition sense and regulator power - so it can be completely disco'd from power. If disco'ed alternator just free spins. Can also be accomplished by pulling the black connector and the brown ignition sense wire.

Add warning light/audible alarm off regulator Dash Lamp pin

Find a way to run aux 12vdc to fridge from appropriate power bank in the case of battery failure.

Add switch to MV...MV guy was doing a SMH when he learned it wasn't installed by Thor. Saves a bit of power draw when not plugged in.

Adding 3 DC breakers to Solar Controller - 1 on incoming, 2nd on output to coach batteries, 3rd second output to chassis battery (I have a GoPower dual battery bank controller - solar charges both coach and chassis). All these circuits are appropriately fused, just adding breakers more as switches to disconnect loads that are currently hard wired.

Ron

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Sorry about your luck Ron... WOW what a nightmare! Sounds like you have a solid plan though.

Now... imagine the people in your situation who have zero mechanical/electrical skills! Would suk to be them!

 

[RonRM]

Sorry about your luck Ron... WOW what a nightmare! Sounds like you have a solid plan though.

Now... imagine the people in your situation who have zero mechanical/electrical skills! Would suk to be them!

Indeed...you would certainly be at the mercy of the "expert" trouble shooting at the dealer, whenever they actually got around to working on the unit. Then have to argue for months with Thor warrantee for not only the batteries, but all the stuff the dealer broke while 'working' on the unit. And of course, wait for new devices to be shipped to the dealer, lost, shipped again.

I envy the folks with generators. Even though, I kinda like/understand the UHG thing, but what a crap design as it sits.

If I weren't so damn old, I'd start a mobile fix-it business in a heartbeat...I'd limit my work to 2020 and newer units. That would be a huge business.

rm

 

[Mark54]

Indeed...you would certainly be at the mercy of the "expert" trouble shooting at the dealer, whenever they actually got around to working on the unit. Then have to argue for months with Thor warrantee for not only the batteries, but all the stuff the dealer broke while 'working' on the unit. And of course, wait for new devices to be shipped to the dealer, lost, shipped again.

I envy the folks with generators. Even though, I kinda like/understand the UHG thing, but what a crap design as it sits.

If I weren't so damn old, I'd start a mobile fix-it business in a heartbeat...I'd limit my work to 2020 and newer units. That would be a huge business.

rm

I dumped the RB100LT's and went with two 300A Weize batteries for $700 each and put them inside along with all the buss bars, solenoid, etc that were underneath. I had 150A MRBF fuses on both batteries. Now have 7200Wh of power.

I also added Blue Sea breaker switches to my new MPPT solar controller too- so I can cut all power to buss bars when working on it.

I am 70 and built my garage too soon- 8' door. 5 years later decided to get an RV, but needs 10' door. I'd start my own business too if I only had a space to work in.

Lucky for me there is a custom van builder nearby and he threatened to hire me.... nope- retired now after 50 yrs of building homes, wiring, plumbing, electronics, Forestry, bike tech, and finally musical instrument repair. All tuckered out now, but enough energy to do 80 mods on my 2022 Tellaro 20L. Search posts by me to see how nuts I am... or PM me for more details. Brother form a different mother....

 

[RonRM]

Yep...very similar situation. I saw one of your posts, refugee from the catty FB group...me too. I found a couple of good ideas, and a ton of noise over there.

I almost was willing to wait for the LiTime group 24's with Bluetooth, they have been announced but are not shipping. I know I can jam 4 of those in, 2 under passenger headrest (after rat nest of wiring cleaned up), and another 2 on a shelf over the inverter on the drivers side and keep consistent length runs.

I heard that the Epoch's 200 or 300's fit in the carriers under the coach, they are pretty pricey and take forever to get.

Yeah, I have a 60x32 Morton building, just wish it had a 10 or 12ft door.

The breakers are a must, pulling fuses, un-hooking wires to safely work on stuff is nuts. I couldn't believe there were no breakers or fuses from the solar to the controller...breaker fixed that. I put a breaker on batt 1 output and another on batt 2 output (coach and chassis). I also just bit the bullet and cut a 1ftx1ft hole in wall with the ladder (black plexiglass covers the hole). It is so much easier with that access hole to get at the solar controller and the BMPro controller. Solves tons of issues.

Yeah, at 67 (still working) I'm starting to want more travel and experience time vs. projects. EE/Comp Sci by education, spent first 10years designing machine tool controls, last 40 or so in software engineering and IT. While I love this stuff, I'd rather not have to deal with it, I just want it to work consistently.

Once I get past the battery issue, hopefully tonight (waiting for everything to balance), I have a new toy (just arrived, still in the box) to share with all you Class B owners.

Keep cool ideas coming...I have a busy week, but definitely would find it fun to share stories.

Ron

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

My Sungoldpower 3k inverter/charger crapped out yesterday on the road. We had full hookups and were running the A/C just to cool the rig down for comfortable sleeping. After about an hour I noticed the batteries (300Ah) were at 5%.

Inverter has a pass thru function for shore power... and is supposed to charge batteries with excess available power. NEITHER were working. Multimeter showed shore power was fine... 120v.

Got home today, removed the unit (about 45 pounds!) and popped the cover off. Found some slightly browned tape wrapping around a terminal... you may know what that is... looks like fiberglass reinforced tape.

So now have to hassle over an $860 purchase that's about a month out of a one year warranty.

Moral to the story.... I should have gone with the Victron MultiPlus 3k unit... $200 more now doesn't seem so bad.

 

[16ACE27]

My Sungoldpower 3k inverter/charger crapped out yesterday on the road. We had full hookups and were running the A/C just to cool the rig down for comfortable sleeping. After about an hour I noticed the batteries (300Ah) were at 5%.

Inverter has a pass thru function for shore power... and is supposed to charge batteries with excess available power. NEITHER were working. Multimeter showed shore power was fine... 120v.

Got home today, removed the unit (about 45 pounds!) and popped the cover off. Found some slightly browned tape wrapping around a terminal... you may know what that is... looks like fiberglass reinforced tape.

So now have to hassle over an $860 purchase that's about a month out of a one year warranty.

Moral to the story.... I should have gone with the Victron MultiPlus 3k unit... $200 more now doesn't seem so bad.

Especially if you have to pay to ship it back.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

Especially if you have to pay to ship it back.

The reviews pre-purchase initially looked promising. Now I'm finding many of their larger home units have warranty/repair issues. And it's more about the customer service than the build quality.

It seems unfavorable Amazon reviews gets their attention... but that is my last resort. I'll find out first hand how well their "customer satisfaction* index is... considering I'm a month out of warranty. We'll see, and I'll probably post my results. Hello Victron...

 

[macdaddy1111]

My Sungoldpower 3k inverter/charger crapped out yesterday on the road. We had full hookups and were running the A/C just to cool the rig down for comfortable sleeping. After about an hour I noticed the batteries (300Ah) were at 5%.

Inverter has a pass thru function for shore power... and is supposed to charge batteries with excess available power. NEITHER were working. Multimeter showed shore power was fine... 120v.

Got home today, removed the unit (about 45 pounds!) and popped the cover off. Found some slightly browned tape wrapping around a terminal... you may know what that is... looks like fiberglass reinforced tape.

So now have to hassle over an $860 purchase that's about a month out of a one year warranty.

Moral to the story.... I should have gone with the Victron MultiPlus 3k unit... $200 more now doesn't seem so bad.

You can't go wrong with victron!

 

[RonRM]

The reviews pre-purchase initially looked promising. Now I'm finding many of their larger home units have warranty/repair issues. And it's more about the customer service than the build quality.

It seems unfavorable Amazon reviews gets their attention... but that is my last resort. I'll find out first hand how well their "customer satisfaction* index is... considering I'm a month out of warranty. We'll see, and I'll probably post my results. Hello Victron...

If you bought it from Amazon...I'd call them and complain about the fact it blew up just outside warrantee...they might just punt and get you taken care of despite the manufacture. They are always my first call, then on to the manufacture.

FYI, not that I'm a fan, but the MasterVolt 3k inverter/charger is pretty solid. It came with the Tellaro. I have the thing plugged in all day every day when not on the road...even in -30F winters, going on over 2years. Not as full featured, as Victron, but it does the job, oh and it's green not blue of you are not all Feng shui about color schemes.

Good luck

rm

 

[Mark54]

The reviews pre-purchase initially looked promising. Now I'm finding many of their larger home units have warranty/repair issues. And it's more about the customer service than the build quality.

It seems unfavorable Amazon reviews gets their attention... but that is my last resort. I'll find out first hand how well their "customer satisfaction* index is... considering I'm a month out of warranty. We'll see, and I'll probably post my results. Hello Victron...

Victron is the best, as well as Combimaster (Mastervolt). I had a SunGold power 2k unit in my Rialta, and worked great, but only had in place 2yrs.

The Combimaster in my 2022 Tellaro is very nice. I'd go with the proven Victron tho if I were to start over- known reputation. Good luck!! Post pics when installed and working!

 

[RonRM]

Update:

Got the new batteries, charged, parallel balanced and installed. Took about 2hrs to put Humpty Dumpty back together again.

Again, infinitely wise Thor engineering didn't leave 1/4" of slack in the crap cables the supplied. The cables are the stiffest they could possibly find, making re-connecting the batteries under the coach an act of pure sacrifice. My forearm looks like I tangled with a mountain lion. You have to perch the battery on the battery cage, lean it forward just so with a floor jack, then reach up blindly in a small space with lots of sharp edges to connect the cables.

Mark - you win, moving this stuff inside is the right thing to do. If and when these batteries blow-up, I'm going Li Time or ?? group 24 Mini's with BlueTooth and mounting everything either behind the fuse box and/or over the inverter.

Then to finish the job, you have to jack the vehicle up so the axle clears the two bolts in the rear of the cage.

I checked off all the design changes on the list, except the fridge aux power (first post in this thread).

I'll have to test the Belt Management setting (I went with 75% to start), to see how that limits the charge current. Everything was at 100% when I finished, so not much coming out of the UHG. I've got it sitting with the solar turned off, so it will drain down a bit so I can test the UHG performance.

Ron

 

[Mark54]

Update:

Got the new batteries, charged, parallel balanced and installed. Took about 2hrs to put Humpty Dumpty back together again.

Again, infinitely wise Thor engineering didn't leave 1/4" of slack in the crap cables the supplied. The cables are the stiffest they could possibly find, making re-connecting the batteries under the coach an act of pure sacrifice. My forearm looks like I tangled with a mountain lion. You have to perch the battery on the battery cage, lean it forward just so with a floor jack, then reach up blindly in a small space with lots of sharp edges to connect the cables.

Mark - you win, moving this stuff inside is the right thing to do. If and when these batteries blow-up, I'm going Li Time or ?? group 24 Mini's with BlueTooth and mounting everything either behind the fuse box and/or over the inverter.

Then to finish the job, you have to jack the vehicle up so the axle clears the two bolts in the rear of the cage.

I checked off all the design changes on the list, except the fridge aux power (first post in this thread).

I'll have to test the Belt Management setting (I went with 75% to start), to see how that limits the charge current. Everything was at 100% when I finished, so not much coming out of the UHG. I've got it sitting with the solar turned off, so it will drain down a bit so I can test the UHG performance.

Ron

I found Thor had 4-6' extra for cables, except those battery ones- "Stiffer than a wedding nite dick" as a co-worker once said... I used 2/0 welding cable and solder slugs to make all my new ones. I re-used what I could of the stiffies where it did not matter any more. I removed many feet of excess 12-2 romex and some smaller wires too.

LFP batteries don't 'light up' like Li-ion ones can. So if moving inside, keep that in mind... There's lotsa room under that bed, and I do not miss the storage space.

I also got rid of those idiot pedestal tables and added two Lagun tables- pdfs for those too!

Best wishes, and PM me anytime if you want my pdf on the battery move.

I had to lift the rear and put the nuts back on the old cage hanger bolts- cages removed. I had to hold the lower end of the bolt to run the nuts up to the floor, and finished with a shot of flex-seal spray sealant under the floor.

It took 5 days to do, but was worth it.

I also replaced the sewer tank hanger bolts with SS turnbuckles.
Like I said, over 80 mods/additions after 2 yrs!!

 

[RonRM]

I found Thor had 4-6' extra for cables, except those battery ones- "Stiffer than a wedding nite dick" as a co-worker once said... I used 2/0 welding cable and solder slugs to make all my new ones. I re-used what I could of the stiffies where it did not matter any more. I removed many feet of excess 12-2 romex and some smaller wires too.

LFP batteries don't 'light up' like Li-ion ones can. So if moving inside, keep that in mind... There's lotsa room under that bed, and I do not miss the storage space.

I also got rid of those idiot pedestal tables and added two Lagun tables- pdfs for those too!

Best wishes, and PM me anytime if you want my pdf on the battery move.

I had to lift the rear and put the nuts back on the old cage hanger bolts- cages removed. I had to hold the lower end of the bolt to run the nuts up to the floor, and finished with a shot of flex-seal spray sealant under the floor.

It took 5 days to do, but was worth it.

I also replaced the sewer tank hanger bolts with SS turnbuckles.
Like I said, over 80 mods/additions after 2 yrs!!

Tracking right with you...probably could have $100 in scrap copper removing all the excess cable...if they used copper - most of it is copper tinned crap.

I can't give up the space...I have too much $hit to take along. We do a lot of dark sky deep space object imaging astrophotography, so I carry at least 2 scopes (one is a compact SeeStar rig, the other 80mmAPO), mounts, tripods, power banks, computer and a pile of other stuff. I have a stow-away, but it's full...next I'll need a small trailer. I guess it's true, given any amount of free space, one will find a way to fill it with stuff.

That's why I'll need to use the space behind the fuse box and over the inverter; there is also more room over by the water pump. I'm thinking I might just spin up on completely separate DC/Inverter circuit just to power specific items, maybe not even charge it off the UHG/MV (or put in a bank switch to charge either 200ah bank separately). Something like 2 group 24's, separate inverter/charger and only charge these when plugged in or switched to UHG. I don't care too much about running the A/C off the batteries. A separate system with 200ah would power a lot of stuff and provide a backup (borrowing from the military - one is none, two is one metaphor). It's not cost benefit at this point, it's how hard do I want to work at this as a generator solves all this.

Yep, pedestal table is gone, the original plate is under a rug so not too much in the way, put in one lagun.

I'm eyeing up the space under the coach (where the generator would go), to either store a little 2-3k inverter generator (something like the small champion) - just storing it there not for operation under the coach, or spare tire on a hanger. I think there is enough room for both items. I have had my second 190w solar panel sitting for a bit, just haven't had the time to install it completely. Depending on the combined 380w performance, I might want to carry a generator for longer term boon docking and running the A/C...I know (a well maintained) the Pentastar can idle till it runs out of gas, but might be nice to have the generator, jury is out on the generator; 100% good to go on the spare hanger.

Yep, did the hangers too. Had to. We were out and about in Havasu, went up a driveway and heard the scraping. Went to look, and the tank hangers were on the ground and the crappy hooks were at the bottom of the drive ramp. Just so happened, a dude in a class A was right there and saw it all. He had a bottle jack so I could put the hooks back (I now carry a bottle jack just in case). I found some really nice compact turn buckles at Ace and replaced the stupid hooks, adds about 4" of clearance now; haven't scraped since.

I'm probably going to catch up to your 80 mods, I haven't counted mine, I guess I could go back and add up all my Amazon receipts.

This is my latest toy https://www.campingworld.co.uk/us/Outdoor-Revolution-Cayman-Air-Drive-Away-Awning/m-34131.aspx (stock photo below - not my van), I haven't put it up yet (still in box), got distracted with battery replacements. This will be a game changer - DW actually likes the Tellaro now that she can have another 100sq ft of living space all connected. This thing hooks into the track on the awning, and has a removable spline, so you can 'drive away' and leave the tent in place. The side walls hug the van, so it's like having a garage space (between van and tent is a separate space) and a living room extension. I liked this thing, vs the panels that attach to the extended awning...first wind gust and say bye-bye to your awning with the panels.

Only available by order from the UK, no US distributors. Surprising enough, it was only $50 to have it shipped...another opportunity for either licensed manufacturing or US dealer network. Take one of these to one of those van/overlanding meetups to show it off and you would probably could sell out a semi load of these.


We really love or Class A and all it's space by comparison, but just can't take to all the dark sky locations like we can the Tellaro.


Ron

 

[Mark54]

Tracking right with you...probably could have $100 in scrap copper removing all the excess cable...if they used copper - most of it is copper tinned crap.

I can't give up the space...I have too much $hit to take along. We do a lot of dark sky deep space object imaging astrophotography, so I carry at least 2 scopes (one is a compact SeeStar rig, the other 80mmAPO), mounts, tripods, power banks, computer and a pile of other stuff. I have a stow-away, but it's full...next I'll need a small trailer. I guess it's true, given any amount of free space, one will find a way to fill it with stuff.

That's why I'll need to use the space behind the fuse box and over the inverter; there is also more room over by the water pump. I'm thinking I might just spin up on completely separate DC/Inverter circuit just to power specific items, maybe not even charge it off the UHG/MV (or put in a bank switch to charge either 200ah bank separately). Something like 2 group 24's, separate inverter/charger and only charge these when plugged in or switched to UHG. I don't care too much about running the A/C off the batteries. A separate system with 200ah would power a lot of stuff and provide a backup (borrowing from the military - one is none, two is one metaphor). It's not cost benefit at this point, it's how hard do I want to work at this as a generator solves all this.

Yep, pedestal table is gone, the original plate is under a rug so not too much in the way, put in one lagun.

I'm eyeing up the space under the coach (where the generator would go), to either store a little 2-3k inverter generator (something like the small champion) - just storing it there not for operation under the coach, or spare tire on a hanger. I think there is enough room for both items. I have had my second 190w solar panel sitting for a bit, just haven't had the time to install it completely. Depending on the combined 380w performance, I might want to carry a generator for longer term boon docking and running the A/C...I know (a well maintained) the Pentastar can idle till it runs out of gas, but might be nice to have the generator, jury is out on the generator; 100% good to go on the spare hanger.

Yep, did the hangers too. Had to. We were out and about in Havasu, went up a driveway and heard the scraping. Went to look, and the tank hangers were on the ground and the crappy hooks were at the bottom of the drive ramp. Just so happened, a dude in a class A was right there and saw it all. He had a bottle jack so I could put the hooks back (I now carry a bottle jack just in case). I found some really nice compact turn buckles at Ace and replaced the stupid hooks, adds about 4" of clearance now; haven't scraped since.

I'm probably going to catch up to your 80 mods, I haven't counted mine, I guess I could go back and add up all my Amazon receipts.

This is my latest toy https://www.campingworld.co.uk/us/Outdoor-Revolution-Cayman-Air-Drive-Away-Awning/m-34131.aspx (stock photo below - not my van), I haven't put it up yet (still in box), got distracted with battery replacements. This will be a game changer - DW actually likes the Tellaro now that she can have another 100sq ft of living space all connected. This thing hooks into the track on the awning, and has a removable spline, so you can 'drive away' and leave the tent in place. The side walls hug the van, so it's like having a garage space (between van and tent is a separate space) and a living room extension. I liked this thing, vs the panels that attach to the extended awning...first wind gust and say bye-bye to your awning with the panels.

Only available by order from the UK, no US distributors. Surprising enough, it was only $50 to have it shipped...another opportunity for either licensed manufacturing or US dealer network. Take one of these to one of those van/overlanding meetups to show it off and you would probably could sell out a semi load of these.


We really love or Class A and all it's space by comparison, but just can't take to all the dark sky locations like we can the Tellaro.


Ron

I use a Yakima Exo 10CF box on the back to make up for loss of storage- about to replace the box with a Rola box w/ 13 CF volume. I will transfer the 'skids' from the Yakima exo to the Rola, and use the Exo swing base. News when I make it happen, but the exo box is just too small, and I lost the top shelf b/c I added a Landed Gear spare carriage.

If it weren't for that, I could have two boxes!!
The Rola is probably discontinued as the price is killer on Amazon at $237 instead of the msrp of $850+. Worth a shot. The Stowaway cargo max is an option, but comes with a swing base, and I had one before on my Rialta, and did not like the method of latching- hard to reach.

For a tent, I use a Gazelle 5 sided Clam copy- up or down in 5 min. Trick is I have to carry inside...

 

[Mark54]

I found Thor had 4-6' extra for cables, except those battery ones- "Stiffer than a wedding nite dick" as a co-worker once said... I used 2/0 welding cable and solder slugs to make all my new ones. I re-used what I could of the stiffies where it did not matter any more. I removed many feet of excess 12-2 romex and some smaller wires too.

LFP batteries don't 'light up' like Li-ion ones can. So if moving inside, keep that in mind... There's lotsa room under that bed, and I do not miss the storage space.

I also got rid of those idiot pedestal tables and added two Lagun tables- pdfs for those too!

Best wishes, and PM me anytime if you want my pdf on the battery move.

I had to lift the rear and put the nuts back on the old cage hanger bolts- cages removed. I had to hold the lower end of the bolt to run the nuts up to the floor, and finished with a shot of flex-seal spray sealant under the floor.

It took 5 days to do, but was worth it.

I also replaced the sewer tank hanger bolts with SS turnbuckles.
Like I said, over 80 mods/additions after 2 yrs!!

I asked why so much wire at the dealer, and they replied so they can work on the component w/o disconnecting. Uh huh. They probably take it outside the can to the break room! My shunt and regulator were out of sight when I got my rig. I still haven't found the Thule awning controller. Not sure I even have one!

I like that tent- but I like my Gazelle too... I just park it close to the awning, and pitch the awning down so water doesn't come into the Gazelle. I got special hold downs for the awning in wind. I do like the drive away feature- just gotta be a great driver getting it back into position!

I was going to comment on the tent being on the wrong side, but then realised it's in the UK, where they drive on the wrong side of the road as well... They might say the same about us, but I drive on the RIGHT side anyways... my bigger tent, blue one in pic, is a 6-sided one with privacy panels- selling to a fellow Rialta owner this summer- too big for us!

"One of these things is not like the other" pic

 

[RonRM]

Yeah the stow-away swing out is OK, the latch is another yoga pose one has to get used to performing. Volume wise, it's pretty good.

I have a 9ft Clam as well (I had to return the 12ft hung over the sides of van when strapped to the bike carrier), I strap it to the bike carrier (or what's left of the carrier - took off everything other than the skids).

I'll put the drive-away awning the bike carrier skids from now on - thinking a dry bag would be best to keep absolutely dry. But, now that you pointed out the Rola (still available for $237) that might be better than a dry bag, if I can mount it to the bike carrier skids. Time to do some measuring.

rm

 

[Mark54]

Yeah the stow-away swing out is OK, the latch is another yoga pose one has to get used to performing. Volume wise, it's pretty good.

I have a 9ft Clam as well (I had to return the 12ft hung over the sides of van when strapped to the bike carrier), I strap it to the bike carrier (or what's left of the carrier - took off everything other than the skids).

I'll put the drive-away awning the bike carrier skids from now on - thinking a dry bag would be best to keep absolutely dry. But, now that you pointed out the Rola (still available for $237) that might be better than a dry bag, if I can mount it to the bike carrier skids. Time to do some measuring.

rm

If the centers on the Rola are different, I have a plan to mount the exo skids anyways.

The Stowaway has 16CF, but aside from the 'yoga pose', the lights pop out if you load wrong!! I like the Rola's light system as well. Many complain about the cheap latches, but I have a plan for that as well- just like clear coffins, 'remains to be seen'...

The other option is a Sylvansport trailer, but I know the shorter the trailer, the harder it is to back up! My buddy has one and he just unhitches it when he gets to his campsite, and wheels it by hand. I'd just rather not have a trailer, unless I have canoes or kayaks as he does, and my hydrophobic wife kinda squelches that.
Stoweaway 2 max, seen on my 2001 Rialta QD- swings around better than the exo. But I own the exo now...

 

[MCP-THOR]

If the centers on the Rola are different, I have a plan to mount the exo skids anyways.

The Stowaway has 16CF, but aside from the 'yoga pose', the lights pop out if you load wrong!! I like the Rola's light system as well. Many complain about the cheap latches, but I have a plan for that as well- just like clear coffins, 'remains to be seen'...

The other option is a Sylvansport trailer, but I know the shorter the trailer, the harder it is to back up! My buddy has one and he just unhitches it when he gets to his campsite, and wheels it by hand. I'd just rather not have a trailer, unless I have canoes or kayaks as he does, and my hydrophobic wife kinda squelches that.
Stoweaway 2 max, seen on my 2001 Rialta QD- swings around better than the exo. But I own the exo now...

You guys are going to get me to spend more time and money if I keep reading your posts!

Apparently I can't make up my mind on storage solutions...or I just like options. I think it's the latter.

Box on bike rack for shorter trips holds essential hoses, cords, leveling, small camp table etc. Camp chairs can also be strapped to rack and sit on top of box.

Or, Stowaway2 for more stuff. Can even do both. Had to make a small adjustment to clear the recently added spare carrier. Also relocated the license plate to above the spare so I don't have to move it if and when the Stowaway box is used.

Then there's the 4x6 trailer for the long hauls. Mostly related to relocating north to south and south to north, fall and spring. However, the trailer is easy and one can just toss stuff in without much worry for overloading.

BTW, the Promaster and trailer worked fine over Monarch Pass in Colorado. Even passed a tanker truck, albeit slowly. Mostly got passed by others.

Mike

 

[Mark54]

You guys are going to get me to spend more time and money if I keep reading your posts!

Apparently I can't make up my mind on storage solutions...or I just like options. I think it's the latter.

Box on bike rack for shorter trips holds essential hoses, cords, leveling, small camp table etc. Camp chairs can also be strapped to rack and sit on top of box.

Or, Stowaway2 for more stuff. Can even do both. Had to make a small adjustment to clear the recently added spare carrier. Also relocated the license plate to above the spare so I don't have to move it if and when the Stowaway box is used.

Then there's the 4x6 trailer for the long hauls. Mostly related to relocating north to south and south to north, fall and spring. However, the trailer is easy and one can just toss stuff in without much worry for overloading.

BTW, the Promaster and trailer worked fine over Monarch Pass in Colorado. Even passed a tanker truck, albeit slowly. Mostly got passed by others.

Mike

My Canadian Rialta owner buddy said the same thing about spending more every time we see him... he calls me Inspector Gadget.

I keep a medium plastic box on the bike rack all the time- has my immediate needs, extendable handle squeegee for windscreen, water hose, small kit box w/ various hookups, etc. Also have a weather sender back there (white thingie) and sewer tube attached to box- will have to re-do that...

I like the power the Promaster has- no more getting out and pushing the Rialta over a hill... typical VW and propensity to have no power. Odd that they both have 2.8 V6 engines... PM is aspirated better tho. Not as zippy as my ID4, but it will do.

I see you also have the Landed Gear spare carrier- made me remove my Exo's top shelf and basket, but I like having it there instead of the bike rack.

PS- bike rack probably wasn't glued- so check that. Mine was dry and paint was damaged, so I re-installed it with Sikaflex 252. Never coming off now.
Good ol' Thor and their total lack of QC, or not reading (or unable to read) simple instructions. It's right in the XT-2 bike rack install manual.