2013 Windsport both Slide switch won't work

[Tomzspot]

OK. I have 2 slides, both stopped at same time.

Followed normal operating procedures like I always do.
I've already talked w LCI. The controllers tested fine. They aren't getting enough voltage from the wall switches. I'm only getting 2.79v at wall switches. Controllers need at least 8v from wall switches to work the slides.
House batteries are fine.
Plugged into 30amp at home.
Levelers work fine.
Everything else, AC and DC works fine.
I can operate the slides by jumping the wall switches with a 12v source. The controllers and slide motors work fine when this is done.

So the issue is that the wall switches aren't getting the required voltage to send to the controllers to operate the slides. Both of them.

Has anyone experienced this? Or is this a call to Thor for hours troubleshooting?

 

[ducksface]

Thor won't have a clue.
Support for that model may have quit years ago and all the help you'll likely get, no matter if it's still supported, is someone flipping through a trouble shooting manual.

When you SWAP switches with the bed or a new $13 switch,
What happens?
When you jump TO the switches what happens?

Great trouble shooting so far and very well described.

 

[Tomzspot]

Haven't replaced switch. Seems odd that both switches would be bad at exact same time. But at this point, I'm open to anything. I'll switch it out and let you know.

 

[ducksface]

We'll keep throwing if you keep catching.

 

[PS89]

Sounds like a bad/poor connection or failed conductor in the circuit, not an issue with bad switches. Are you measuring that 2.79V under load or no load with what as your ground reference for the meter? Important distinction are to be made for troubleshooting.

First thing I'd do is check/reseat the SLIDE MOTOR PWR 30A fuse in your DC fuse panel. Check the feed wire from the fuse, make certain there is no poor connection at the fuse panel.

Then verify that full battery voltage is being passed through the SLIDE MOTOR PWR fuse in your DC fuse panel both while 1) no switch pressed and 2) while one of the slide switches is being pressed.

Then, verify the ground circuit that is used for the switches and the slide motors.

 

[Tomzspot]

After thinking about it replacing switch won't work. The switch needs to "switch" at least 8v to the controller. In other words there is only 2.8v getting to the switch. A new switch won't work.

 

[PS89]

After thinking about it replacing switch won't work. The switch needs to "switch" at least 8v to the controller. In other words there is only 2.8v getting to the switch. A new switch won't work.

It's good that you're thinking. We all need more of that!

Follow up on my last post and let me know what you find. Since you said initially that the stuff works when you jump 12V to the switch(es?), the problem is in the power supply line to the switch.

 

[ducksface]

It's good that you're thinking. We all need more of that!

, the problem is in the power supply line to the switch.

Has to be.
So
Are we sure all safety crap is doing it's safety crap thing?
Brake
Park
Engine on or off

 

[Tomzspot]

Sounds like a bad/poor connection or failed conductor in the circuit, not an issue with bad switches. Are you measuring that 2.79V under load or no load with what as your ground reference for the meter? Important distinction are to be made for troubleshooting.

First thing I'd do is check/reseat the SLIDE MOTOR PWR 30A fuse in your DC fuse panel. Check the feed wire from the fuse, make certain there is no poor connection at the fuse panel.

Then verify that full battery voltage is being passed through the SLIDE MOTOR PWR fuse in your DC fuse panel both while 1) no switch pressed and 2) while one of the slide switches is being pressed.

Then, verify the ground circuit that is used for the switches and the slide motors.

Well this is one for the books... At about the same time my propane detector went bad. Well the beeping was driving the dog crazy so I took the fuse out. Fast forward to today, I put in the new propane detector, replaced the fuse, and just out of curiosity, pushed the slide switch...and they work! I have no idea.

Thanks anyway.

 

[ducksface]

Someone else had reported the same thing a few months ago.

Electrical something killed by the detector battery/fuse.

 

[16ACE27]

Haven't replaced switch. Seems odd that both switches would be bad at exact same time. But at this point, I'm open to anything. I'll switch it out and let you know.

It's not the switches.
Logic says it's something common to both switches.
Like the ignition interlock relay.
Find that and test the voltage on both sides. It's either the interlock relay or wiring associated with it.

 

[PS89]

Well, if only we had known that you had a fuse pulled, even if it was seemingly unrelated.

Still bet you have an intermittent connection in that fuse panel. Manipulating the fuse may have allowed the connection to "make" for now.

 

[16ACE27]

So if the fuse was pulled was it 2.79 volts or 2.79 millivolts on the autorange function?
2.79 millivolts can easily be induced voltage on non-connected wires and throw troubleshooting in a different direction that a measured 2.79 volts.

 

[ghnl]

Thanks anyway.

Well, thanks for coming back to report the solution. That will help some future RVer if they do a search for a similar issue. Hopefully the bruise on your forehead heals quickly (where you slapped yourself...).