2017 Hurricane 34P Taillights Not Working

[mchurch456]

I just bought a 2017 Thor Hurricane 34P and upon purchasing and inspection at the time all lights worked as they should. This weekend, I went on a trip, around 400 miles each way, and I noticed right after I left that my taillights and rear clearance markers weren’t working (everything up to the back cap of the RV worked, the problem started at the rear red clearance markers at the bottom of the rear of the rv and everything behind those was out),at the time the brake lights and turn signals worked. The on the return home I noticed that all lights on the back cap (from the rear red clearance lights back)aren’t working including the brake lights and turn signal, which were working when we left. I check all of the chasis fuses in the engine compartment and under the dash all are good. I could not test the relays as I didn’t not have appropriate tools with me for that but I replaced the relay for the daytime running lights because it was exceedingly hot to touch while testing the lights and there was one readily available (this did not solve the issue). I plan on testing relays this weekend but does anybody have any ideas? I am pretty handy but thinking of taking it in for service, just don’t want to wait too long without appropriate lights while waiting for an appointment.

One more thing to note was the coach was in a pretty heavy rain storm outside between the inspection and when I noticed the issue but no blown fuses. I have heard about leaking taillights causing a short on this model so I also plan on taking the taillight lenses off to check on any water intrusion but all of the lights are out including the clearance markers on the side which I did check and no apparent water intrusion there.

Sorry for the long post, just wanted to provide as much detail to see if anybody has any ideas I haven’t thought of. I guess this is my welcome to the RV world!

 

[16ACE27]

Probably s poor ground connection for all these rear lights aggravated by the rain. Break out the test light/multimeter and start tracing the ground wire first.

 

[mchurch456]

Probably s poor ground connection for all these rear lights aggravated by the rain. Break out the test light/multimeter and start tracing the ground wire first.

Thank you for the quick reply! I work on tracking down the ground and testing this weekend or hopefully sooner if I can. I will definitely provide updates.

 

[MJC68]

Could be a bad ground as ACE stated. That could be the issue with the clearance lights.
But don't forget to pull those taillight covers and check for water intrusion. Our MH the taillights quit after the bulbs blew. It was caused by the leaky covers and water shorting out the bulbs. Replaced one rusty socket and sealed up the lens' with a good quality RTV silicone sealant. Knock wood we are golden so far.

 

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

When I replaced the taillights on my 2018 ACE I did the change with power active so that I could instantly verify that I made the correct connections as each connection was made. During that process I accidently shorted a wire and that burned one of the mini fuses in the engine compartment fuse panel. I do not remember which specific fuse was burned but I think it was #10 or #12. The symptom was that all the running lights were out, front and rear clearance lights tail and front parking lights. Turn signals also continued to work. So, if the front clearance and parking lights still work then the problem is not a fuse. If lights in the front are out, then you might have missed a fuse. Sometimes it is very difficult to visually see whether a fuse is burned. The only way I am comfortable verifying a burned fuse is to pull the fuse and use a circuit tester. If the front clearance and running lights still work, then it is likely a ground connection since the front and rear lights likely do not share the same ground connection.

Also, crawl under the back end and check for hanging wires. One of the very first things I fixed on my coach was zip tying a bit of the wire harness that was hanging down by about 6" just under the back edge of the coach. I was lucky nothing snagged that set of wires. Although, it is not very likely you would miss a bit of the harness hanging free at the back end of the coach. I could see the hanging harness without even getting under the coach.

 

[mchurch456]

So, I had some extra time and hadn’t taken the RV back to storage so I started tracing the wires back to find the ground and as I got a few feet into the harness I found a connector that I decided to take apart and test the wires. I found that they had power on the upstream side of the connector and when I pushed the connector back together the lights worked. It was not visibly disconnected but it must have been loose. So I took it apart again and cleaned it and added a little dielectric grease and a zip tie to stabilize the wire and connector and everything is worked as it should. Thank you everyone for your help, I appreciate it. I am finding the RV community is very friendly and helpful.

 

[Dan-sr@perra-us.net]

So, I had some extra time and hadn’t taken the RV back to storage so I started tracing the wires back to find the ground and as I got a few feet into the harness I found a connector that I decided to take apart and test the wires. I found that they had power on the upstream side of the connector and when I pushed the connector back together the lights worked. It was not visibly disconnected but it must have been loose. So I took it apart again and cleaned it and added a little dielectric grease and a zip tie to stabilize the wire and connector and everything is worked as it should. Thank you everyone for your help, I appreciate it. I am finding the RV community is very friendly and helpful.

I am happy you found the problem. It is amazing the something so simple can happen apparently on its own. Good luck and may all your RV issues be so easy to fix.

 

[Merritts in Virginia]

I had a short in the running lights that caused the lights to go out. Replaced a 20 amp fuse under the hood (#10), and a cracked running light on the passenger side and they worked fine after that.

Now my problem is that neither of the left or right turn signals work. Ford shows the relays at $214.00 each. Ouch.

 

[Merritts in Virginia]

UPDATE 8 JAN 24: Left and right side blinkers out. Took to Sheehe Ford in Richmond, VA. Paid $200 for diagnosis. Result was that a new turn signal multifunctional switch was needed. In English, that's the gizmo you hit when you turn left or right. Replacement is simple according to YouTube University (pun intended) and takes about 15 min. Part at NAPA was ~$250.00 Labor was going to be $600 in addition to the $200 diagnostic fee. I ordered a DS-180 multifunctional switch off ebay for $49.99. Scheduled to arrive in two more days. Will replace myself and post an update when finished. Vehicle had ~35K miles and is a Thor Hurricane 34J. Love this coach.