https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/ODY...mPyCfgaAtAtEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds&gad_source=1
Buy the above in the appropriate size.
Buy only the above.
Any other will be a failure at a time you don't want.
While you're in there add the jumping lugs under your hood.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B004HGTXUQ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image
There isn't a reason in the world to go halfway on this job.
And(the op is using a shop for install, but for all others)
There's a little keeper wedge at the bottom of that battery. You'll need an 8mm(probably) socket attached to a thin extension to reach it. And I mean ATTACHED. super glue it to the extension. Super glue breaks bond with a bit of heat when the job is over.
For other folk: I have pictures of what I used to repair/hinge the dash-hole when you're buttoning up.
Honest, you don't want in there ever again.
And
Order some dynamat sound deadener and get crazy with it while you're in there.
And
No, a flooded battery won't come out of the wheel well without major trauma. It's 100 times easier to go through the dash. The battery keeper is on the back side between the frame and the battery. The contortions needed to reach it through the wheel well are all but unexplainable. Thr dash-hole is a 15 minute 3asy change if you're prepared.
And
Buy a $4 battery lifter strap unless you're a real hoss(I am) and can lift 50ish pounds 6feet or so with your fingertips
And
I moved my battery elsewhere. If you're truly handy, there's lots of room right behind your passenger headlight. A bit of bracket fabrication and it's an easy change.
Don't half-ass this by having a battery budget or playing the
'It is as good as....'
game.