2025 RV Wash and Wax Discussion (send pictures of results)

dkoldman

Sr. RV Transformation Specialist (SOB)
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Location
Dallas, Texas
With the Spring comes along a new year. For some that do so as a hobby it means it is that time to share new ideas when it comes to maintaining the RV's finish and decals. For me personally this is year 6 of a twice a year grind. We love to hear what all do, but pictures speak volumes. Results matter because when it comes to this hobby... talk can be cheap.

I started this when seeing some RVs that were only 1 or 2 years old and decals were already peeling or cracked. The goal is to see or learn how long one can go. Today I just got started, and as always, my roof (Fiberglass)is always my #1 Priority. If you do not have a clean roof, you will NOT have a clean RV, rather streaks that may be painful to remove. In 6 years the only black streaking I have seen is from the rubber gaskets that is a seal between the slide mounts and fiberglass, but with the wax coating it washing right off. The only cleaners & materials I use are the Gel Gloss RV Wash & Wax, Mequiars Pure RV Wax, Mequiars One step Compound and 303 Protectant. I am looking at trying the Meguiars one step Cleaner Wax this year as I burn down my current supplies.

Below is a picture taken today... more to follow as slowly clean it up. Note: I never try to do it all at one time, too much work. I will do an hour here, and a hour there etc as long as I have the right weather. Today is cool and cloudy in Dallas which is perfect to start.

:useless:
 

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The only thing I am fanatical about is
Not being fanatical about things.

We just try to keep the outside free of large chunks.
 

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Sometimes I get fanatical about being fanatical about being fanatical... but I mix in a little apatheticism it tends to mellow me somewhat.

So then I went out and snapped a few pics of the dirty gal who has sat out in the weather uncovered for almost 6 months. Notice a simple finger swipe removes 6 months of grime...
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No pictures of mine. I haven't done the roof yet so I can't do the body. That said, I think I'm getting to the point were I'll just mop the roof and foam cannon the body with wash and wax. Basically keep off the bugs and the bird ****.
 
The only thing I am fanatical about is
Not being fanatical about things.

We just try to keep the outside free of large chunks.
I grew up washing cars. It was a way of life. When I didn't own a car, washing someone's else car just to drive was the thing. Having insurance wasn't a thing or a need.

It is a hobby, come to my house with a dirty car, I will not only say something, but if you stay long enough I will wash it. Some people will come by and say why you washing the car... it is going to rain tonight, my answer is because it is dirty.

I never use a bug remover. I do wash the bugs off after every trip. I never try to clean bugs at a gas station . To remove my bugs, I just rinse to soften, then I spray the Gel Gloss RV Wash & Wax, wait a minute or two and brush. The bugs and splatter just rinse off. Of course the wax coating also helps. I have been at a few campsites where you are not allowed to wash TVs, but I will wash the bugs off and the soot off the rear from generator, thus far no one has ever said anything, if they do I will just leave and go someplace else to clean. I have adaptor to hook up my water hose to outdoor sink. Pressure is not all that great, but good enough.

I bought plenty of the Wash Wax All, I can't really make it work for me, especially the RV. It is nothing more than a detailers touchup. Takes too long to do an entire vehicle and it can't be too dirty, or you will still need water. At my current rate of usage, I have a 5 year supply. I do like it in my Lincoln Navigator, when I go out. I use it to touch up some unexpectant water splatter on the road, or unexpected sprinkler system.
 

Adequate and can siphon from a five gallon bucket.
Perfect for travel.

I have a genuine wash bay at the behemoth.
Drain slot all the way across.
Pressure washer.
Reverse osmosis spotless water.
Shade
Air blower
Vacuum
Sloped Concrete floor
It wasn't planned, It just kinda fell together.


I haven't washed six cars in 60 years.
 
Sometimes I get fanatical about being fanatical about being fanatical... but I mix in a little apatheticism it tends to mellow me somewhat.

So then I went out and snapped a few pics of the dirty gal who has sat out in the weather uncovered for almost 6 months. Notice a simple finger swipe removes 6 months of grime...
View attachment 1110085View attachment 1110086View attachment 1110087View attachment 1110088
Good deal, I looked real hard trying to find something to rake you over the coals about, but came up empty. Good job, :first: but I bet if you move your RV back a foot or so, I can find some dirt under the tires that you missed.

The 6 months of grime looks like the grime I get in rear of RV after running the generator for 20 hours or so.
 
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No pictures of mine. I haven't done the roof yet so I can't do the body. That said, I think I'm getting to the point were I'll just mop the roof and foam cannon the body with wash and wax. Basically keep off the bugs and the bird ****.
That is basically what I do, it is just that twice a year I apply the wax with dual polisher. I am just curious to know how long I can go before the decals start to crack and oxidation finally takes over?

I finished my roof so maybe tomorrow I can start my waxing on the body and the treatments of the decals.
 

Adequate and can siphon from a five gallon bucket.
Perfect for travel.

I have a genuine wash bay at the behemoth.
Drain slot all the way across.
Pressure washer.
Reverse osmosis spotless water.
Shade
Air blower
Vacuum
Sloped Concrete floor
It wasn't planned, It just kinda fell together.


I haven't washed six cars in 60 years.
Shade is key, if I had that luxury I would wash more. As it is I have to wait on perfect weather conditions to occur when I feel like it. Although I do wash my cars & RV in the rain. Not a pouring down rain but a good light rain. It is actually easier and faster because I don't bother to rinse. Just foam, brush and go.

I ruined my long time Stanley 2150 Pressure washer a little while back. When de-winterized the water hose, I put the water timer on top of the splitter feeds the pool & hose. It should have been the other way around, the timer cut off in the middle of washing a car and I had no water and it eventually burned the pump / motor. I did a lot of research as the Stanley was no longer available, I loved it. I concluded this was the best option for me Amazon.com

Still to early to crow about it, but I really like the compact suitcase design with wheels. I put quick disconnects on it, and I can connect my old pressure hose to the new in series for 50 feet. I have both guns with quick disconnects as well. With that said, I don't use or need on the RV. I use mainly for pool filter, concrete, brick fence etc. I did buy some rubber 3.0 gpm nozzles that I am experimenting with using on the cars / suvs. It reduces pressure to about 1200psi and has a lot more water flow. It does not allow to siphon from a bucket, but I have not tried, not sure I would ever have a need.
 
Sometimes I get fanatical about being fanatical about being fanatical... but I mix in a little apatheticism it tends to mellow me somewhat.

So then I went out and snapped a few pics of the dirty gal who has sat out in the weather uncovered for almost 6 months. Notice a simple finger swipe removes 6 months of grime...
View attachment 1110085View attachment 1110086View attachment 1110087View attachment 1110088
I am adding picture of the roof after a wax with rain on top, and the RV body BEFORE a Wax. It has been sitting in the sun under our tree most of the winter.

The pre wax body picture is going to put pressure on me to get a picture after the post wax that will look better. But at the end of the day, the goal of wax is not so much the shine, but protecting that fiberglass so it stays smooth feeling like glass.

Also, this year I want to find something that is made specifically for RV decals beside 303. I hear some decal conditioners do not leave oily areas where you wipe?
 

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Continuing on Duck's theme, here's another vid that dabbles a little into the science.

The reason I began my "experiment" with RejeX is because of the UV protection claims, and associated positive user reviews (for what they're worth) backing them up. Most importantly was the ability to use it as a "one step" process... cover the gelcoat AND decals in one process. I LOVE 303... I swear by it on practically anything rubber or vinyl... but I think the longevity of it's UV protection is compromised by constant weather exposure.

My layman's research convinced me that UV damage is compounded by dull surfaces... which absorb more light energy (including UV spectrum) than glossy ones... a mirror effect if you will.

My conclusion was that a first line of defense from gelcoat oxidation and vinyl deterioration is GLOSS. Keep it shiny to reflect the suns rays (UV). Then use a product to coat (seal) the surface imperfections which would NOT wash/wear away for a predetermined time... RejeX claims 6 months.

I feel combining this philosophy with a third tool... a wash solution that adds a slight waxing gloss (Gel Gloss) gives me a reasonable coat of protection.

I'm no expert by ANY stretch... and I'll gladly change course if a better solution is presented. But a full explanation of WHY it's better... beyond "because I like it"... Product manufacturers who divulge the science behind their products are more convincing.

Lastly... had I know as a rookie how much work it is to maintain gelcoat and decals, full body paint would have been mandatory.
 
3D Bug Remover or Bugs & All (they work identically), I use a Battery pressure washer along with a five gallon bucket, Wash/Wax All, and Aero Cosmetics extension rod with all attachments. I also use Areospace 303. Purchased Aero Cosmetics kit at a rally. Was stuck going across the country without anything to wash the the RV. Glad I had it when going through Florida's pan handle. That is where I learned about kissing bugs. I was able to wash them off. Using the wand I appled baking soda to the front and rewashed. I do have a plug in power washer for other things. As I get older I like the battery powered pressure washer more and more.
 
Washed the entire RV today... cool & cloudy - perfect weather. Caulking on the edge seams of the cab look a little rough. Time to peel it out and redo with ProFlex.
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Lastly... had I know as a rookie how much work it is to maintain gelcoat and decals, full body paint would have been mandatory.

I could have my coach with Full Body Paint. It was a $40k upgrade, called the Adventurer. The only other differences were it came with the EC-30 AGS, a fancier dinning table that lifted with an accessible drawer underneath, and the name Adventurer versus Sunstar or Vista.

I could pay a high end professional $750 to Wash and Wax the RV twice a year at a cost of $1,500/year. Times 6 years that would be $ 9,000. Actually it is only a net increase of $4,500 because you should still wax a FBP RV once per year. So in my view I have $35,500 more invested in savings.

I should note that WBGO crows that my coach has what is called Automotive Like finish. I know it is marketing but it is something in between. One day, if I don't feel like, if I look around, I can find some one that can do a great wax job for $400 especially if I bring it in already washed.

With that said, I would prefer FBP, I would further prefer to NOT have any decals. I think all RVs should be FBP just like cars, trucks. $10,000 more I would gladly have bought FBP, but note, you would still need to wax at least once per year.
 
Why I am retiring Protectant 303

Disclaimer: I don't hope to offend anyone because 303 is a good product and I have used for 6 years, so not intending to debate.

I just felt that after 6 years there ought to be something that could perform better and not be as greasy on the surface as the 303. I also had one bay door that was starting show some signs of fade. The RV was made 7 years ago.

After a lot of research, I decided to try a Chemical Guys product called VRP. Now Chemical Guys have always been around, but I never had a need to buy any of their products until I saw how it protects for UV and not have that greasy look.

Notice in picture, you can easily see in the light tan where I did not treat the strips on the door in the center. I did treat the small areas leading into and out of that bay door.

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A few hours later I did the entire bay door. (See picture below) :fishing:

I am still needing to clean up and wax the RV, but my focus today is on decals. My belief is that a properly maintained decal will last 5 - 10 years. I am trying to get 10 years.

Note: My decals do get some wax, because it is impossible to wash the fiberglass without hitting the decals. But I don't think wax is very good for decals because it can dry and crack.

Again, this post is NOT to say 303 is not any good for what it does. It is to say I have found something I like better and I am showing you why.

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This topic is very timely for me as we have a new Four Winds, and it is RV washing season in our area. After much reading, here is the plan I'm starting off with.....but open to logical change.
1. Rinse the section I'm working on
2. Use Star Brite black streak remover, spray and scrub as needed.
3. Rinse
4. Use a foam cannon to apply Gel-Gloss RV wash and wax
5. Scub with brush as needed.
6. Rinse
7. Apply McKees 37 Sio2, immediately rinse.
8. Wipe down

Love these topics and the willingness of the community to share their knowledge.
Frank in Seabeck, WA
 
This topic is very timely for me as we have a new Four Winds, and it is RV washing season in our area. After much reading, here is the plan I'm starting off with.....but open to logical change.
1. Rinse the section I'm working on
2. Use Star Brite black streak remover, spray and scrub as needed.
3. Rinse
4. Use a foam cannon to apply Gel-Gloss RV wash and wax
5. Scub with brush as needed.
6. Rinse
7. Apply McKees 37 Sio2, immediately rinse.
8. Wipe down

Love these topics and the willingness of the community to share their knowledge.
Frank in Seabeck, WA
Gelcoat or full body paint? The manufacturer claims 3 - 5 years longevity, but looks like the assumption is for automotive paint?

Will be interesting to see oxidation protection results from a line of self-applied ceramic coatings. Gelcoat fiberglass is quite a different animal without paint.
 
This topic is very timely for me as we have a new Four Winds, and it is RV washing season in our area. After much reading, here is the plan I'm starting off with.....but open to logical change.
1. Rinse the section I'm working on
2. Use Star Brite black streak remover, spray and scrub as needed.
3. Rinse
4. Use a foam cannon to apply Gel-Gloss RV wash and wax
5. Scub with brush as needed.
6. Rinse
7. Apply McKees 37 Sio2, immediately rinse.
8. Wipe down

Love these topics and the willingness of the community to share their knowledge.
Frank in Seabeck, WA
There are so many permutation, endless solutions that can technically work. All require stability to maintain a regiment.

That is why I tout pictures. Anybody can say anything and it sounds good, but what really happens in real life and over several years? i.e. one could argue if you do just your step #4 every other day, you may have great results.

Then again one (like me) could say if you have black streaks you have some other problem to fix first. Likely a dirty roof.

I never scrub, if you have to scrub that means you have a special cause. i.e. if you ran cross some tar on the highway, I get it.

Do before and after pictures of whatever you do, that will be always your best answer.
 
It's also interesting how some fiberglass gelcoat will get chalky (oxidize) just by looking at it, whereas other folks rarely have issues with it. I think this is analogous to the handling "problems' we hear about. Some folks notice oxidation and it bothers them... others don't care. OR some fiberglass by nature is more susceptible to oxidation??

I agree... detailed pics speak volumes because the phrase "my rig looks new" is VERY subjective.
 

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