A/C

[robebur]

Bedroom A/C is not blowing cold or as cold as the front AC in my Thor Challenger. Coleman Mach 13,000 btu unit. Where is the best place to begin with diagnosis? I check the filters, cleaned the coils. Not sure where to go next. Hopefully not the repair shop.

 

[16ACE27]

I assume it blew cold enough before?
If so, hopefully your cold/hot divider has just fallen out of place. Remove the interior A/C cover and check that divider. If that's not the case then it is likely a loss of refrigerant, but it would be worth it to remove the cover on the roof and check the condenser to make sure some cheese stealing critters haven't created a nets up there and blocked some air flow.

 

[Beau388]

Bedroom A/C is not blowing cold or as cold as the front AC in my Thor Challenger. Coleman Mach 13,000 btu unit. Where is the best place to begin with diagnosis? I check the filters, cleaned the coils. Not sure where to go next. Hopefully not the repair shop.

I use my Progressive EMS to look at the amperage draw. The front A/C (Coleman Mach 15) draws 3 amps with the fan on high, on L1 and 13-16 amps when the compressor and fan are running. The rear A/C (Coleman Mach 8 HP) draws from 2 amps from L2 with the fan on and 11-15 amps when the compressor and fan are on. If the amperage exceeds those values, I am in the sun with ambient above 100 F degrees, or I've got an air flow problem on the roof, or the ducts, filters and vents are clogged. I pull the covers for a cursory check in the spring (usually dirt dabbers and debris on the condenser) and again before the first trip in July.

A simple infrared thermometer will tell if you have good cooling. After a full run of about 20 minutes, the air coming out of the ducts should be at-least 20 degrees F cooler than the ambient in the coach.

 

[robebur]

I assume it blew cold enough before?
If so, hopefully your cold/hot divider has just fallen out of place. Remove the interior A/C cover and check that divider. If that's not the case then it is likely a loss of refrigerant, but it would be worth it to remove the cover on the roof and check the condenser to make sure some cheese stealing critters haven't created a nets up there and blocked some air flow.

There was cold air before. Divider is in place. No critters. Can I replace the refrigerant? I am a novice on AC stuff.

 

[ghnl]

Most (all?) RV roof A/Cs are not set up to recharge the refrigerant. I've read about clever folks that retrofit fittings to do that but I don't know the practicalities or legalities of doing so.

 

[Chateau_Nomad]

There was cold air before. Divider is in place. No critters. Can I replace the refrigerant? I am a novice on AC stuff.

RV A/C units are closed systems, meaning they aren't repairable/refillable by design. Unfortunately (if there's a coolant leak) replacement is the logical option. But I'd absolutely make certain that low coolant is the cause before going that route.

 

[Beau388]

The hard of repairing any system that has lost refrigerant is finding and patching the leak. As for a RV roof A/C, you must add the cost of installing the low and high service ports. At $150.00 an hour labor searching for a leak can cost more than a new A/C would.

The cost of a new 13,500 BTU roof A/C is between $850 and $1350. If you stick with Coleman, you won't need a new ceiling assembly or thermostat. Labor to remove the 90 lb A/C and install a new one will be in the $300 to $400. A Coleman Mach 10 heat pump is about $400 more but you will need a new thermostat for the heat pump. I have a Coleman Mach 8 13,500 BTU HP in the bedroom because the Mach 8 is much more quiet on low than the Mach 10

 

[robebur]

I got up on the roof today. Removed the cover and one aluminum panel. No critters. The plastic panel that holds the wires was lose. I repaired that. The big black thing that holds the smaller black thing was hot. No apparent leaks but no condensation. When the fan on the roof unit was blowing the air coming of the fan seemed cooler than the ambient air.

 

[robebur]

Had to replace the AC unit. New one installed. $1,800 but I had an extended warranty.

 

[Beau388]

PPL Motor homes has a Mach 3 plus for $762.10 (dealer cost plus 12%). The Coleman Mach 15 plus EZ is $1035.54. EZ means their soft start module is installed. The last time I check, replacement of the top unit is a flat $250 in labor. Who ever charged you or the insurance company got taken. I use Tweetys (which will meet PPL prices and it 200 miles closer to me). Some dealers will give 40% credit for the usable parts in the old A/C ($80 for the blower motor and and blower assembly or $50 if the shroud is in good shape for instance). You own the old A/C and they should be willing to buy the usable parts from you. If you gave it to them they made more money. That's I patronize independent RV repair replaces (Iron Horse RV or Wagner's RV). The second week of June my coach goes to Texas Custom Coach for new slide toppers and patio awning fabric plus new brown partial paint. It is Hazel's 9th birthday present.