A solution to the dreaded bag under the sink (29M)

[Jusplainwacky]

The bag under the kitchen sink on a 29M (and other models) that allows the slide-out to move "around" the electrical/plumbing is a piss-poor design. It doesn't provide much weather proofing and critters can still get in the opening under the slide-out and have a nice home.

I was extending my slide-out when I heard my kitchen cabinets starting to creak and crack. When I took off the wood panel (under the sink) to investigate, I noticed the bag had caught on the cabinet/kitchen assembly. Luckly I was inside the coach and stopped the slide-out before any damage was done.

Needless to say, I ripped the bag out. The problem with ripping it out, is figuring out how to seal the opening, cause the rubber that comes on the bottom of the slide-out doesn't make a very good seal.

There have been some creative ideas to seal this opening once the bag is removed, such as placing Styrofoam in the opening, pool noodles, brush/bristles, etc.

I have come up with a solution that works great and provides excellent insulation.

What I did was get a Neoprene Rubber Sheet Roll 1/8 (.125) Inch Thick x 12 Inch Wide x 48 Inch off Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0859FYHY7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I cut two pieces 12" wide and the length of the opening.

I then screw it into the wood flooring (using stainless screws) with washers as shown in the photos. The weight of the rubber and how it folds down, keeps it pushing against the rubber on the slide-out and makes a nice seal.

It's nearly impossible to get the stainless screw the rubber into the wood in the back cause you can't get your arms back there. So, what I did was superglue the screw to the Philipps bit on my drill and used one hand to screw it into the wood. One could use steel screws and a magnet bit, but I wanted to use stainless (which is non-magnetic) so it will never rust. Once it gets screwed in, it's easy to break the glue bond.

The trick is to get the rubber on the right to fold on top of the rubber on the left, so everything lays flat when the slide-out is going out.

To do this, I glued about 4" inches of the piece on the left to the bottom rubber (that comes with the coach) at the very back. This way as the slide out is going out, the piece on right will fold over the piece on the left. I think one could also cut the piece on the left a little less wide at the back, but I decided to glue it.

Once I got it all screwed in, I cut both sides at the end (towards the inside of the coach) at about the same angle to make room for the plubming/electrical.

 

[Bob Nodine]

The bag under the kitchen sink on a 29M (and other models) that allows the slide-out to move "around" the electrical/plumbing is a piss-poor design. It doesn't provide much weather proofing and critters can still get in the opening under the slide-out and have a nice home.

I was extending my slide-out when I heard my kitchen cabinets starting to creak and crack. When I took off the wood panel (under the sink) to investigate, I noticed the bag had caught on the cabinet/kitchen assembly. Luckly I was inside the coach and stopped the slide-out before any damage was done.

Needless to say, I ripped the bag out. The problem with ripping it out, is figuring out how to seal the opening, cause the rubber that comes on the bottom of the slide-out doesn't make a very good seal.

There have been some creative ideas to seal this opening once the bag is removed, such as placing Styrofoam in the opening, pool noodles, brush/bristles, etc.

I have come up with a solution that works great and provides excellent insulation.

What I did was get a Neoprene Rubber Sheet Roll 1/8 (.125) Inch Thick x 12 Inch Wide x 48 Inch off Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0859FYHY7?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

I cut two pieces 12" wide and the length of the opening.

I then screw it into the wood flooring (using stainless screws) with washers as shown in the photos. The weight of the rubber and how it folds down, keeps it pushing against the rubber on the slide-out and makes a nice seal.

It's nearly impossible to get the stainless screw the rubber into the wood in the back cause you can't get your arms back there. So, what I did was superglue the screw to the Philipps bit on my drill and used one hand to screw it into the wood. One could use steel screws and a magnet bit, but I wanted to use stainless (which is non-magnetic) so it will never rust. Once it gets screwed in, it's easy to break the glue bond.

The trick is to get the rubber on the right to fold on top of the rubber on the left, so everything lays flat when the slide-out is going out.

To do this, I glued about 4" inches of the piece on the left to the bottom rubber (that comes with the coach) at the very back. This way as the slide out is going out, the piece on right will fold over the piece on the left. I think one could also cut the piece on the left a little less wide at the back, but I decided to glue it.

Once I got it all screwed in, I cut both sides at the end (towards the inside of the coach) at about the same angle to make room for the plubming/electrical.

Nice job. I have a roll of that rubber sheet that I purchased years ago to roll out under our diesel pusher to act as a portable creeper when we needed to work on something on the road. You have given me a use for that sheet of rubber.