AGM to Lithium in 2022 Sanctuary

Thanks for the input. There are some campground that have "quite hours"meaning you are not allowed to run your generator at night ... so no AC ... which is a must to sleep here in FL.
We have that in Texas and it is in most campsites we stay; which 90% of the time is a State Park somewhere.

Our AGS manages Quiet time as it is set to be more generous than any quiet time hours we see from a campground With that said, thus far we have managed to NOT camp anywhere on a dry site (Campground dry site) where temperatures would require the ACs at night and park had rules restricted generators.

But if you requirements are tweaked a little bit, you may still be able to reasonably do your quest.

i.e.
assume 3000 watt inverter with all wired in
assume your AC is going to be 7.5 amps or less.
assume you only need 10 hours or less to get through quiet time
assume you buy the the batteries listed above at 300ah / 56 lbs each, or the equivalent and you can place 2 in the existing locations, and two more hidden somewhere in the RV
assume you have my mandatory suggested victron orion XS 50 amp DC to DC (in fact two of them) then assuming when you are at a dry campsite you will need to run your genny anyway during the day for daytime Air, you will have up to 12 hours to replenish the 4 batteries, but I suspect you will only need 7 or 8 hours. You may only need 3 batteries depending on actual current draw of AC. But you want the extra capacity anyway.
Assume you will have about 224 lbs of Lithium batteries where you may have about 150 lbs of AGM now?

Also, while the rules state no generator, can you run idle the engine? If so, you could run engine on demand as may be needed to get up to 100ah pumped into your batteries through the night.

Now to be clear, for the money, I would not do this, but I get your question and money does not seem to be controlling factor for you; so I am onboard with that.

FWIW, Unless you have portable needs.... a powerstation may be a tad too much, plus it will be heavy to move around. My powerstation is 1052 watt hours and it is my weight limit ( about 40 lbs). It would be nice for my boat, but so far no need to use on my boat. I have house battery that runs all I need. ( No AC on my boat) Keep us posted
 
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Just a reminder that you need LARGE wires going to the roof for a 12V AC unit.

There's always a trade-off.
This is my hold up on 12v a/c.
I have a reel of 00 cable already but I just don't want to fish those 25ft long fatties through the roof and wall.

It is just easier in the summer to not stay at places with quiet hours.
If this bit of sacrifice can be made there is no need for such upgrades to a/c that we are all contemplating.

That's just about the simple of it all.

Do they make an undermount 12v a/c yet?
I sure could adapt a roof mount to under mount easily enough but we don't stay at quiet hour type places if it doesn't suit us to do so.
 
This is my hold up on 12v a/c.
I have a reel of 00 cable already but I just don't want to fish those 25ft long fatties through the roof and wall.

It is just easier in the summer to not stay at places with quiet hours.
If this bit of sacrifice can be made there is no need for such upgrades to a/c that we are all contemplating.

That's just about the simple of it all.

Do they make an undermount 12v a/c yet?
I sure could adapt a roof mount to under mount easily enough but we don't stay at quiet hour type places if it doesn't suit us to do so.

To this point, it reminds me that 6 years ago we stayed in tents, it could be 100 degrees outside of sub-freezing and we did just fine. Although it did get too cold one night and we went to the jeep to get warm with engine running (yeah we know that was taboo, but it was cold)

I think the Campsites I have always seen call the sites Primitive if they had no power. If we are in our RV and it is 100 degrees in July or August, primitive sites are out and not a big deal to avoid them. Ironically, more often than not we do get the non-electric sites when it is cheaper and we know we will not need the AC. I rarely ever hook up with water or sewer at a RV site. I don't have time, I am in hurry to get back on the road :car:

With all kidding aside. I can understand the OP's quest. Maybe in our future they design a small portable 12vdc AC that we can put in the bedroom when we sleep. They do make all electric RVs; so the pursuit is not that far from reality. Just like Solar / Lithium conversions was extremely expensive 5 years, when cost comes down it is game on for more toys.
 
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This is my hold up on 12v a/c.
I have a reel of 00 cable already but I just don't want to fish those 25ft long fatties through the roof and wall.

It is just easier in the summer to not stay at places with quiet hours.
If this bit of sacrifice can be made there is no need for such upgrades to a/c that we are all contemplating.

That's just about the simple of it all.

Do they make an undermount 12v a/c yet?
I sure could adapt a roof mount to under mount easily enough but we don't stay at quiet hour type places if it doesn't suit us to do so.
Then this should look interesting.

1749839495764.png


 
Then this should look interesting.

View attachment 1319351

Saved. Thanks.
This type will be my next a/c if there is a next ac
 
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No need to do "difficult" cable fishing. BTW, has ANYONE other than satellite imaging (and me) seen cables on my roof? Didn't think so. I would route the cable right beside my roof mounted solar cables - down through the cavernous refer vent. From there it's an easy path to a 12v bus.

When my antiquated power hog dies, this is a no brainier. Cheaper than a replacement Coleman Mach, less than 1/3 power usage, half the weight and another 6" of roof clearance. On a sunny day when needed most, my solar will almost run this thing. That keeps at least 50 miles daily worth of gasoline in my tank. I'd rather use that gas for travel than mindlessly running my generator.

But for campground queens who stay tethered, it's pointless.
 
FWIW, I installed a RecPro (Houghton) 13.5K unit on the bedroom roof of my 29M last year. At night, I set the fan speed on low and the thermostat to our negotiated (!) temperature and let it run all night off our batteries and inverter. The fan only pulls about 3-4 amps on athat setting and the compressor adds another 9 or 10 amps draw. After it cools enough, the compressor runs very little. An overnight operation that way uses less than 20% of my 840 AH battery bank including the fridge and the inverter overhead.
 
Just a reminder that you need LARGE wires going to the roof for a 12V AC unit.

There's always a trade-off.
I have a Mabru 12k btu, 12V roof AC- uses 6AWG wires, so nothing huge about the wires.. 660W max, and no inverter needed. I have connected directly to my buss bars (moved off the bottom) and comes with it's own fuse for B+ leg. Inverter uses as much as 50W just being on.
2yrs later- no issues, and lots less power needed. With my 7200Wh system, can run that for 11+/- hours when boondocking. I never need it that long.
Lots shorter than the Mach 1 unit that I removed. No regrets and no trade-offs.
Also has a remote that the Mach 1 did NOT have. Win-win.
I looked at the Houghton, but this made more sense to me.
 

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Appreciate all the expert help.
Ordered 2 Lithium

12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery Group 31,Upgraded 100A BMS,1.28kWh Up to 15000 Deep Cycles,Automotive Battery 10 Years Lifespan for RV,Solar Energy,Off Grid,Marine,Trolling Motor​

& LI BIM 225.

Will install myself after taking many wiring pictures
 
Appreciate all the expert help.
Ordered 2 Lithium

12V 100Ah LiFePO4 Lithium Battery Group 31,Upgraded 100A BMS,1.28kWh Up to 15000 Deep Cycles,Automotive Battery 10 Years Lifespan for RV,Solar Energy,Off Grid,Marine,Trolling Motor​

& LI BIM 225.

Will install myself after taking many wiring pictures
How much? Those 300ah NewtiPower were selling for $327 on Amazon. Not an automotive battery if you have that requirement?
 
Then this should look interesting.

View attachment 1319351

So in theory that thing could run up to 5 hours on one 300ah battery at 12v @60amp as guess. Three 300ah batteries will more than meet the OP's goal of 12 hours. How interesting. It would not do for my RV but interesting nonetheless for those with smaller space.

I saw this based on your info at Jungle World for $389.

 
So in theory that thing could run up to 5 hours on one 300ah battery at 12v @60amp as guess. Three 300ah batteries will more than meet the OP's goal of 12 hours. How interesting. It would not do for my RV but interesting nonetheless for those with smaller space.

I saw this based on your info at Jungle World for $389.

Jungle World? Did you mean the Jungle Site? But your link is for FleaBay.
Regardless, it looks exactly like the one I referenced above but much cheaper.
 
Jungle World? Did you mean the Jungle Site? But your link is for FleaBay.
Regardless, it looks exactly like the one I referenced above but much cheaper.
I meant the Jungle Site, but I was still wrong. It was FleaBay. It is Friday and during Happy Hour for me, so if I am not mistaken again, the Jungle Juice may have played in my error. I was just overwhelmed at the price delta for the OP and Duck. But OP has made it clear of wants, seeking info on how it can be done with cost not so much a factor.
 
I meant the Jungle Site, but I was still wrong. It was FleaBay. It is Friday and during Happy Hour for me, so if I am not mistaken again, the Jungle Juice may have played in my error. I was just overwhelmed at the price delta for the OP and Duck. But OP has made it clear of wants, seeking info on how it can be done with cost not so much a factor.
Regardless, the Jungle site has many sellers of the same Chinese clone unit with varying prices and shipping costs. The ones with the cheaper prices have the higher shipping costs. Very few reviews.
To install the mini-split you have to know about refrigerant oil, vacuuming the system and refrigerant adding or hire a HVAC guy to finish it up.
 
I have a Mabru 12k btu, 12V roof AC- uses 6AWG wires, so nothing huge about the wires.. 660W max, and no inverter needed. I have connected directly to my buss bars (moved off the bottom) and comes with it's own fuse for B+ leg. Inverter uses as much as 50W just being on.
2yrs later- no issues, and lots less power needed. With my 7200Wh system, can run that for 11+/- hours when boondocking. I never need it that long.
Lots shorter than the Mach 1 unit that I removed. No regrets and no trade-offs.
Also has a remote that the Mach 1 did NOT have. Win-win.
I looked at the Houghton, but this made more sense to me.
When one of my 13k Coleman Mach dies, I will have to look you up on a replacement that will fit for future. If money was not an option, I would replace my AC#1 up front to 15k from 13k also with a low profile. I would replace my AC#2 with one of these 12v DC units also with low profile, hopefully 13k BTU, but I will take what I can get. Not sure if I could pipe the 12vdc unit with my existing ducting?

This would allow me to use the 12vdc whenever driving with no issues, but still have my AGS to run the 15k unit up front if needed.

I would add a 2nd 300ah maybe a 3rd if it is feasible with the wiring, otherwise 4 (300ah) would be too much capacity for me.

I wouldn't need Solar for any of that although I now have 200 watts of portable solar that works well. It is more of a toy for me now. i.e. I am considering unplugging from home, and then maybe once a moth connect the solar one Saturday to top off both banks of batteries.
 
Well, DKoldman, you have piqued my interest on something. Please correct my thinking on this:
15k 120v A/C up front.
Add 12v A/C to the existing rear fan spot.
Wire 12V A/C through the existing inverter.
While connected to either SP or genny, I could turn the inverter on and run the 12V A/C from the batteries. These batteries are constantly being charged by the SP or genny.

Am I missing anything or are there any concerns?
 
Well, DKoldman, you have piqued my interest on something. Please correct my thinking on this:
15k 120v A/C up front.
Add 12v A/C to the existing rear fan spot.
Wire 12V A/C through the existing inverter.
While connected to either SP or genny, I could turn the inverter on and run the 12V A/C from the batteries. These batteries are constantly being charged by the SP or genny.

Am I missing anything or are there any concerns?
Wire the 12 V A/C to the HOUSE BATTERIES. The inverter isn't even a concern.
While the house batteries are being charged by the converter while on SP or genny, the converter is probably only rated at 55 amps. So the batteries' SOC will go down.
 

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